🔧 BUILD LAME Turbo V6 Camaro

[01bluesnake]

Well fuck. No I haven't. I had been wondering how that was supposed to work too. I wonder if I still have the old lifters on the bench.

Yeah, its a little funky trying to get stuff like that figured out. I put mine in a vice, and use a dial indicator to measure how much im moving it. Once im at the spot, say .060" ill throw a few small welds to keep it there. After that, throw it back in the motor, grab an adjustable push rod, and find the sweet spot on the tip of the valve with a marker, like you already did, and should be spot on.

 

[v6buicks]

Yeah, its a little funky trying to get stuff like that figured out. I put mine in a vice, and use a dial indicator to measure how much im moving it. Once im at the spot, say .060" ill throw a few small welds to keep it there. After that, throw it back in the motor, grab an adjustable push rod, and find the sweet spot on the tip of the valve with a marker, like you already did, and should be spot on.

So you would want the lifter fully pumped up right? Could I achieve 0 lash on the rocker, measure the preload, and just add that much to my adjustable pushrod? I mean it's probably not as good as making a tool, but I would think it gets you close enough.

 

[bs009]

So you would want the lifter fully pumped up right? Could I achieve 0 lash on the rocker, measure the preload, and just add that much to my adjustable pushrod? I mean it's probably not as good as making a tool, but I would think it gets you close enough.

That's exactly how I measured mine. dial indicator on the valve set to 0 lash, measured to account for 0.050" of preload on the lifter.

 

[GTPpower]

I measured them at zero lash, then just added how much preload I wanted to that length.

I measured each rod 3 times, rotating the engine over a couple times in-between each measurement. Then, took the average for each one.

I ordered mine straight from Manton and received them in less than a week iirc. They custom make them however you want. Mine are 5/16" and I'm on 150# springs and a xpz.

 

[01bluesnake]

So you would want the lifter fully pumped up right? Could I achieve 0 lash on the rocker, measure the preload, and just add that much to my adjustable pushrod? I mean it's probably not as good as making a tool, but I would think it gets you close enough.

Yeah, theres a few ways you can do it. If your using test springs on the valves, which are extremely light, a pumped up lifter will be fine, but i wouldnt do it that way if leaving the normal spring in the head. With anything other then test springs, the lifter will want to collapse, or move down as your trying to cycle the engine over since theres no oil pressure to keep it pumped up. Its my preference to lock the lifter at a pre set pre load, this way i can get a true measurement on length, at my needed pre load, and get a feel how tight or loose the push rod is since the hydraulic portion is now an error removed. Its easy to get a reading on the valve tip this way too.

 

[sktchy]

I measured them at zero lash, then just added how much preload I wanted to that length.

I measured each rod 3 times, rotating the engine over a couple times in-between each measurement. Then, took the average for each one.

This. You can use a cut pushrod and a chunk of fuel line if you really want to

 

[v6buicks]

Okay. I'm with everyone now. Given that I was at a turn and a quarter between 0 lash and the torque spec I'm probably better off getting a longer rod anyway. I have test springs though, so that's another way I can verify. I'll try a couple different things in the morning.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Oh jeeze.

Gut two good used lifters, fill with halfway jb quik away from oil entry hole, install on side, install valvetrain with stock pushrods, let set

Use trick flow sbf adj pushrod to find ideals for all cylinders

 

[v6buicks]

I am having such a bad time. I wasn't looking forward to figuring all this out, but I didn't think it would be this difficult either.

I bought this ZZP adjustable pushrod years ago and hadn't used it until now. Only they could mess up something this simple. The threads are very loose and they didn't put a lock nut on it. No matter how careful you are, the tip will turn and the length will not stay consistent. Now I get to make the POS work so that I can move on.

It's not threaded all the way, so I did that as best as I could.

Threads are shit, but I was going for speed. This tool might go in the trash when I'm done with it.

Then I searched around for a 1/4-20 nut. 7.05" is as short as I can make the tool which is convenient but also the reason why it will go in the garbage. Lol

Then I removed a valve spring and put the dummy spring in. That was a waste because the lifter still compresses before the dummy spring.

Soooo I guess I'll try to just measure the amount of travel these lifters have, determine how much preload I want to put on them, add the remaining travel to my pushrod, and recheck? I think that's the only way without buying a single lifter to jam full of washers or weld up.

 

[sktchy]

Wrap some thread tape around that mf so it holds it in place?

 

[01bluesnake]

I am having such a bad time. I wasn't looking forward to figuring all this out, but I didn't think it would be this difficult either.

I bought this ZZP adjustable pushrod years ago and hadn't used it until now. Only they could mess up something this simple. The threads are very loose and they didn't put a lock nut on it. No matter how careful you are, the tip will turn and the length will not stay consistent. Now I get to make the POS work so that I can move on.

It's not threaded all the way, so I did that as best as I could.
View attachment 192610
Threads are shit, but I was going for speed. This tool might go in the trash when I'm done with it.View attachment 192613
Then I searched around for a 1/4-20 nut. 7.05" is as short as I can make the tool which is convenient but also the reason why it will go in the garbage. Lol
View attachment 192614
Then I removed a valve spring and put the dummy spring in. That was a waste because the lifter still compresses before the dummy spring.

Soooo I guess I'll try to just measure the amount of travel these lifters have, determine how much preload I want to put on them, add the remaining travel to my pushrod, and recheck? I think that's the only way without buying a single lifter to jam full of washers or weld up.

That sucks to see on the adj pushrod, can't say ive ever had that happen. Yeah, best bet is to just weld a spare lifter locked in either zero, or preload position. Like mentioned above, could always JB weld it too, but i can't say i've did it that way before.

 

[v6buicks]

Okay. I'm with everyone now. Given that I was at a turn and a quarter between 0 lash and the torque spec I'm probably better off getting a longer rod anyway. I have test springs though, so that's another way I can verify. I'll try a couple different things in the morning.

Thanks everyone!

Apparently my thinking here was backwards. My preload with 7.00" pushrods was about perfect. If I wanted less preload (less turns to torque spec) then I'd need SHORTER pushrods. Oops again.


I'm really losing my confidence in my ability to finish the car right now. I held off on sending my parts back to Summit, but if they happen to be the right size I won't know how to proceed. Do I grind reliefs on the rockers? Shim the pedestals and start all over?

 

[01bluesnake]

Here's a read that may help you. I'm not too sure on the specifics on your motor, or your rocker setup. There's are shims, available, im just not sure that is the problem.

Loading…

www.motortrend.com

 

[v6buicks]

I've determined that my 7.00" pushrods are fine. They give a solid amount of preload without going overboard for the type of lifters I have, and changing the geometry to fix the retainer clearance is probably going to have adverse affects. The spring retainer clearance issue seems to be a disagreement with the rocker itself. I believe it would be solved with the Yella Terras, just because that's what Intense sells. I can't guarantee it though. Given the cost of that gamble, I'd rather try grinding the bottoms of my stock rockers a bit. I'm not sure how good of an idea that is on a hollow steel piece like ours though.

What is rocker-to-retainer clearance and why is it important?

Giving rocker-to-retainer clearance some thought and ensuring you that have enough can prevent premature wear and/or valvetrain failure.

www.dragzine.com

turtleman what was your remedy?

As for the head gasket, I'm just going to have to cut it up. I don't know how to do this with any elegance now that I've already installed the head though. I'm hoping I can get snips in there.

 

[GTPpower]

Are your valve stems at the same height across the head? I'm trying to understand how the rocker can contact the retainer like that.

 

[v6buicks]

Are your valve stems at the same height across the head? I'm trying to understand how the rocker can contact the retainer like that.

Yeah I checked them with a straight edge. What I'm not sure is if they're longer than than stock.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Face valve stems if they are too tall from vsr.

Composit hg pushrod holes can be readily ovaled with a long large Phillips screwdriver and a flathead to force it sideways to open the hg pushrod triangles.

If those were MLS you'd have to grind em lol

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Be aware that often it's the head casting flash that will rub pushrods, esp larger pushrods or inward moved pushrods (moded 1.8/1.9 rockers)

 

[v6buicks]

Face valve stems if they are too tall from vsr.

Oof. I really don't wanna do that, but I think I see the value. I'm assuming that even if the retainer stays in the same spot, facing the valve tips could pivot the rocker enough to gain clearance from the vsr. I wish I could do that without removing the heads and sending them out.

Composit hg pushrod holes can be readily ovaled with a long large Phillips screwdriver and a flathead to force it sideways to open the hg pushrod triangles.

If those were MLS you'd have to grind em lol

I like this idea. That'll work!

Be aware that often it's the head casting flash that will rub pushrods, esp larger pushrods or inward moved pushrods (moded 1.8/1.9 rockers)

I hope that doesn't come into play, but I guess we'll find out soon.

 

[GTPpower]

Want some yella terra's?

 

[v6buicks]

Want some yella terra's?

You have 1.6s? How much?

 

[GTPpower]

You have 1.6s? How much?

Let me check. I think they are 1.7's but can't remember for sure. They were part of the package deal when I bought the Whipple.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

I has slightly crispy 1.6 yt from the Whippled riv

 

[v6buicks]

I has slightly crispy 1.6 yt from the Whippled riv

How crispy? You selling?

 

[turtleman]

I changed to zzp rockers which I'd say have a little bit more clearance at the retainer area but the bigger thing that helped was switching to zzp retainers. Those moved the spring hight down like .050 compared to the retainers that were in there. The installed hight with the zzp's were about 1.780" and they just have a really low profile in general