🔧 BUILD LAME Turbo V6 Camaro

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Hello! Welcome to the shit show! I am updating this post in 2021 to explain what new readers are about to witness. If I knew that this thread and build were going to explode into what it is today, I would have started it out a lot different.

This car was (and still is) a basket case. The whole inspiration for starting this project was to start learning how to modify engines in a car that I didn't like. That way, if and when I screwed up, I wouldn't be ruining a nice car. It spiraled out of control from the first moment that I felt boost. I loved what I had created, but it took a ton of work to get to where I was. As soon as I got the car running nicely I was always saying "I'm going to fix______, and THEN I'll just enjoy driving it." You know the drill. Drive, break, fix, repeat! Before I knew it, I enjoyed driving and working on this turd more than the nice car I was trying to preserve!

The point is that the focus of this thread shifts A LOT. To complicate matters, I never have just one ongoing project open at a time. I listed some thread contents with links below. I will update this as new milestones or big updates happen. Just know that even if you click on the shortcut, you may have to scroll past other project posts to reveal the outcome. There are also some mini-projects and very helpful advice from other members in between, so read the whole dang thing if you want!

2018-2019
1. A late introduction
2. Discovering how a PCV works (and plugging it)
3. Custom grill for intercooler
4. Fuel pump trap door
5. Learning that I'll never learn anything from my goofy wide band gauge
6. Deleting AC completely, but retaining heat
2020
7. Low profile heater hose fittings
8. Deleting an air bag without setting a light on the dash
9. Starting a second round of floor repairs
10. ABS delete and line lock installation
- A separate thread for the electrons
11. Installing catch cans with nice brackets (Way overkill)
12. Figuring out the "blow by" problem once and for all (F-body intake plug)
13. Second clutch job, first rear cover job, and preliminary transmission swap research
14. Floors are "done", and Interior is installed.
15. I don't know how to tune, but this wide band might help.
16. Poly trans mount. Yeah, it actually deserves a link.
17. I waved the tuning white flag. Dyno Brian sets me straight!
18. T5 Pro5.0 shifter
19. New shifter was too much fun. OG T5 explodes, and my transmission conversion ideas start to get serious.
-TKX conversion
-TKX swap official write-up
20. Reconfiguring my exhaust for a quieter and less leaky future
21. I'm not done enjoying this car for the year, so I install a $100 T5 instead of a bulletproof conversion. SPOILER ALERT: It only lasts two months.
22. Minor repairs/updates that make the car livable (lighting, stereo, speedometer re-zero, and a clutch master cylinder that actually does it's job!)
23. Wheels and addressing rust again since I got time!
2021
24. Custom center caps
25. 1.9 roller rockers and LS6 springs
26. CAI V2.0
27. TKX is delayed so it's time to address the little annoyances.
-OE pan is junk. Dorman pan gets hot rodded
28. TKX is still delayed, so I install just one poly engine mount and beef up my flimsy turbo drain plumbing
29. TKX does NOT ship the following Monday. Flywheel bolts upgraded to ARP M10 x 1.0
30. When you're on a Chinese garbage budget, you better be ready to work harder. (Oil drain fitting hot rodding)
31. Finally repairing the oil sender pig tail, replacing the other engine mount, and test fitting the TKX.
32. Finally addressing rear brake lines while I wait for more transmission parts.
33. Modifying an ICM for a WOT box
34. Dash gets re-instrumented so that diagnostics become possible.
35. N2MB WOT box
36. Porked crank key. PSA: Be careful installing your balancer!
37. Car runs great after plug change, but the rear main seal needs to be changed again.
38. BURNOUT! Also, I kinda bought a cam.
39. Turbo drain finale (better be) and full exhaust commenced
2022
40. Downpipe V3 and BMR strut tower brace
41. Panhard bar and relocation for bro truck exhaust
42. Muffler, driveshaft, torque arm, and giving up smoking.
43. First trip to the GS Nationals (feat. time slip)
44. The very custom AC project is born
45. New dyno results (up 50 hp!)
46. Exhaust hanger repair before Michigan/S.S. Badger/Wisconsin trip
47. Sizing a better turbo
48. Painting but still not installing the IS3 heads and Monster clutch unboxing
49. Firewall brace
50. New ECM
2023
51. Out of storage and SC engine buy failure #3
52. Modified double roller and spitballing crankcase evac ideas
53. Completing the rear suspension. UMI rear control arms.
54. Cracked headers and L32 swap begins
55. My newest L32 was trash. I'm upgrading the L36 instead
56. Side project: The ultimate-ish intake manifold takes shape


Now back to 2018!
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Now that this car is running and driving, I figured I would start a thread dedicated to all the questions I’m about to pummel this group with. This is the first time I've really built anything to move quicker than stock, so I'm hoping to learn a lot from you guys before I make unnecessary mistakes. I also have a thread in the Turbobuick.com 3800 section, but I'm not getting as much input there due to a lack of audience. Here goes nothing...

The car I have is a 2002 Camaro with only ONE factory option (rear window defogger). The story supposedly goes that my buddy's dad was looking forever for a new Camaro because he never buys anything for a penny more than the best deal. He almost ran out of time as this was the final model year for the F-body, and '03s were already on the market. The dealer from which he found this car bought it for the sole purpose of being able to advertise "Brand new Camaros for under $10k", so this was the one he took home.

Fast forward to 2018. The car was structurally a wreck from living in the rust belt, but has a great interior, okay black paint, a third pedal, a 3800 (which is a plus in my book), and a lot of sentimental value since I remember riding in it when it was brand new. My buddy’s dad handed me the keys in hopes that I would enjoy it and make it a race car. To be honest, I don’t care for F-bodies, but I couldn't resist this one for the reasons above despite knowing that the floors were in desperate need of existing again.

I already had my dream car which is a 1986 Buick Regal Grand National. As much as I love that car, I like it the way it is in fairly stock form and modifying Buicks has gotten terribly expensive anyway. I figured a black 3800 Camaro could easily fulfill my childhood dreams of racing a badass turbo Buick V6 car while being on a budget, so here I am.

The car is now equipped with:
-6765 ebay turbo
-Precision PW40 wastegate
-Custom turbo exhaust utilizing a stock Camaro and FWD manifolds
-Air to air ebay intercooler
-AEM 50-1200 fuel pump
-Siemens Deka 80# fuel injectors
-Open 3” downpipe
-Custom 3” charge pipes
-Intense mail order tune
-Very ugly but functional upright radiator conversion (the core support was all just rust anyway) :dunno:
-Custom space saving AC delete without bypass pulley
-Midwest Chassis bumper support modified to mount my intercooler
-Spec Stage 1 clutch kit

The car is far from refined and has a lot of little issues to sort out, but I will leave the first post as sort of an introduction to that. I hope you enjoy hearing about it. It’s been fun to build!

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v6buicks

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I think this car is going to be on the twin engine Olds completion schedule. I haven't fully committed to redoing everything on the Camaro right away, but I'm finding it hard to compromise. It all starts with how I insist on modifying the core support for a new radiator. That's happening no matter what...
but if I do that, I really shouldn't redesign the front end around a shitty intercooler. I would like to get a nice one that's ready to flow some air....
but if I do that, I'm going to resize it and move it so that it can actually sit upright. The tilted deal I have now is kinda goofy looking....
but if I do that, the charge pipes won't fit right anymore. I'll have to make new ones or modify the ones I have...
but if I do that, I better move the turbo into a more convenient spot, increase the throttle size, and fix the intake tract....
but if I do that, I will need to modify the exhaust (which is broken anyway). I might as well try to make or modify some headers.

This is getting out of hand. This round of repairs and updates was already pretty huge before all these new ideas. Frankly I don't really need any of them either except for maybe the intercooler. I don't think I'll see the benefits with my tiny fuel system which I ironically refuse to touch yet. It's kind of all or nothing though. If I start messing around with the plumbing, I want to get rid of all of it so that I can sell the old stuff as a kit.

I think my goal is buy an intercooler, mock it up, build brackets, and not install it until I'm ready to go hog wild. The way I have the new radiator planned shouldn't get in the way of the current intercooler or its mounts. I think that would be the ideal compromise.

However, I do stuff in order of convenience and opportunity. Having the GN stored here and the Camaro apart makes my garage completely unnavigable. Until spring, I'm kind of stuck doing side projects in the basement or farming stuff out, so finding another F-body UIM for $80 shipped was a pretty good score.
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I'm trying to come up with the best way to chop this thing. The first thing I noticed was that the casting line is more of a perfect place to cut than expected. I following it all the way forward cuts off the unneeded EGR and evap ports without touching the coolant ports which have to stay. I'm not sure if I'll be able to chuck this thing into the horizontal band saw but it would be pretty awesome to just chop it in half once and clean it up the rest of the way with a dremel. I may just have to free hand the cut in a vertical band saw and ask my buddy to clean it up on the mill.

I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to go about rebuilding it either. Part of me just wanted to weld the thing back on with a 1-2" strip of aluminum to raise the roof up. It would be simple and retain the ribs and lettering. I scrapped that though because I don't think I'd be getting the best air distribution by having the air come in at the same spot. I think cutting a big piece of pipe and angling the throttle passage in the top like so would be a little more elegant.
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I also considered getting one of these.
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and one of these
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Then just connecting the dots. However, that may be an even bigger pain in the ass if its too long and I have to chop it up too.
 
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bs009

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If you have somebody who can weld aluminum then I'd do the high ram top all day. That's what I'm hoping to be able to do with my Holden intake when it finally goes on a car someday. Seems like the simplest/easiest option to me aside from accounting for the PCV and the vacuum ports on it. The TB flange is already there and it's already an LS flange, the shape is somewhat right too but it might just need a little bit of height under it.

Even if it comes out a little sloppy looking it's not like you'd be able to see it under the cowl right? lol
 
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v6buicks

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If you have somebody who can weld aluminum then I'd do the high ram top all day. That's what I'm hoping to be able to do with my Holden intake when it finally goes on a car someday. Seems like the simplest/easiest option to me aside from accounting for the PCV and the vacuum ports on it. The TB flange is already there and it's already an LS flange, the shape is somewhat right too but it might just need a little bit of height under it.

Even if it comes out a little sloppy looking it's not like you'd be able to see it under the cowl right? lol
One downside to all this is that I think the cowl will need some trimming at the minimum. Hopefully I won't have to remove it entirely and lose my wipers. If the dimensions for the Holley piece are favorable for the car I'll be going that way for sure. I don't care about hood clearance, but I do want to clear the stock alternator and firewall.
Those are worth 80 bucks? Balls. I've got a good tac throttle body I'm never gonna use too that's probs worth even more
I still think that was expensive, but it's one of those parts that doesn't come around locally on marketplace very often. When they do, they're being sold with a complete engine that I don't want. eBay has a ton of these for over $150 plus shipping, and shipping is the killer.

I've seen our throttles listed for $250. Lol. I wouldn't pay anywhere near that.
 
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sktchy

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One downside to all this is that I think the cowl will need some trimming at the minimum. Hopefully I won't have to remove it entirely and lose my wipers. If the dimensions for the Holley piece are favorable for the car I'll be going that way for sure. I don't care about hood clearance, but I do want to clear the stock alternator and firewall.

I still think that was expensive, but it's one of those parts that doesn't come around on locally on marketplace very often. When they do, they're being sold with a complete engine that I don't want. eBay has a ton of these for over $150 plus shipping, and shipping is the killer.

I've seen our throttles listed for $250. Lol. I wouldn't pay anywhere near that.
I was gonna say I'd have sold you the one I have way cheaper but shipping on that seems like it'd suck. However depending on what you do here I might have to cut one up myself 😂
 
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v6buicks

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I did some research and started measuring. Without hacking a big section out of the Holley piece, it's going to dwarf the length of the 3800 intake which is to be expected being short a cylinder.
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DIY, but still expensive hi-mang is officially off the table. My game plan is weak though. I'm second guessing my choice to just saw this thing in half because I don't have a great plan for relocating the MAP sensor. I don't think I'm going to end up bugging my machinist until I have a little more information.
 

v6buicks

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Fuck you if you do this before me :rofl:
Want a 3800 f body lim top flange?
😁 I may start first, but I still don't have a tig welder. It will be really tough to finish an aluminum part this complicated when I can't stick things together. Finding a way to get the right plenum size in an F-body without cutting the cowl may be tough too.

Lol top flange may be helpful.
 
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sktchy

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You should read my plugs.

Most definitely an airflow issue just like the turbo 3.8....only we just can't use a power plate to even out the air distribution like they can
Ok but when does one start to see a difference? Back two holes? Im sure there's improvements that can be made but why not just a flipped L26 mailbox it seems like the distribution would be a lot better and maybe just beat on the cowl some for clearance?
 

v6buicks

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The way I see it, people don't modify intakes because it's a lot of work and requires welding aluminum. 95% of the 3800 owners are in the "more boost is all you need" crowd which is fun but only gets you so far. The other 5% don't care to put this much effort into a car let alone a $2000 20 year old FWD Pontiac. Otherwise, the gains are available. I'm just a glutton for punishment and 3800 is life.

FWD NA manifolds are a lot better, but they aren't ideal. I was willing to deal with the shortcomings in air flow which is why I have a couple that are already flipped. What I'm not willing to do is move my alternator to make one fit. The only people I've ever seen make the flipped FWD work used very custom balancers to run Grand National accessories. I have one of those balancers, but I don't see the point in running an ancient, problematic, and expensive accessory system when stock stuff is so much better, cheaper, and already there.

If anybody wants a flipped FWD L36 manifold to play with I'll sell it to them because I'll never use it let alone two of them. lol
 
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sktchy

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I'm pretty sure I have a couple plastic ones with lowers and another fbody upper and lower that will probably collect dust til they get hauled in for scrap lol. But as for going through all that trouble I'll just watch you guys do it until I get to a place where I can buy a nice aluminum Tig. Then yeah I'll probably be trying to stick all sorts of dumb shit together
 

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I'm pretty sure I have a couple plastic ones with lowers and another fbody upper and lower that will probably collect dust til they get hauled in for scrap lol. But as for going through all that trouble I'll just watch you guys do it until I get to a place where I can buy a nice aluminum Tig. Then yeah I'll probably be trying to stick all sorts of dumb shit together
wanna get rid of that extra fbody plenum?
 

v6buicks

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Welders are such a sore subject for me right now. The biggest tease is having a nice Miller TIG and a huge welding table at my disposal at work. However, I'm far from being educated on using it, so trying to learn on my own makes the dudes who work in there very nervous. They would rather just do whatever I want done for me which is fine.
I don't want to mess up the machine and create more work for them, but I hate asking for favors all the time. I'd rather keep those guys happy because I really appreciate their their free advice and labor! I've been tempted to use a 25% off anything HF coupon to get a Vulcan multi-process but it doesn't change the fact that I don't have space for a decent welding table or an oven to pre-heat cast parts. I guess I'll keep asking for favors.

"Hey can you make this go fast?"
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Anyway... Machinist was off today, but he offered some good advice on how to get this thing cut before he left.
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Here comes the choo choo!
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This could be cool wall art.
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This is interesting. I can finally get a glimpse of how the PCV actually works in the F-body intake. It's simpler than I always thought. There's a passage from the valley to the PCV to the front of the throttle body. There is no passage from valve to to plenum like I assumed. This proves that my PCV plug never sealed well since the throttle needed to be plugged. It's odd but it doesn't matter now. I'll probably have the walls inside the plenum milled out and then have the tunnel welded shut. Maybe I can revisit the tunnel if I ever add a vacuum pump.
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Rejigged and cut the rest off.
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Oh yes. I'm starting to picture how I want to do this now.
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I may just keep the top because I like the ribs and raised lettering. Plus, I think it will be a lot easier to ask a welder to make this happen. As for the throttle, I have no idea ho I'm going to route it. For good distribution, I think I'd want something like the picture below. I just think it would add a lot of complexity to the fabrication. Regardless, I know there's still a lot of hacking to be done.
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v6buicks

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Now that I see where your going with this I'm in. I suppose you've planned for fuel rails too?
I've been planning on doing something, but I've changed my mind a billion times for various reasons.

When I initially got the ported heads, I thought I would tap/plug the head holes and use L36 rails forever. I have a nice set of custom polished L36 rails with -6 connections that should flow all the fuel I ever need. However, L36 LIMs are like $0.50 and Intense heads are almost $2k. I'd rather plug the intake and not regret it down the road. Now that I have this intake project going on I think it would be wise to abandon L36 rails forever and get L67 rails which is a mofo by principle. I have a nice set of modified stock L32 rails for a full stack too. L67 is the only 3800 rail type I don't have and it's the only good long term idea. 😡 It might be better to have the custom L36 mounting tabs relocated than buying all new rails. I hate doing that to cool parts though.
 

Mr_Roboto

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On the turbo forums under the advanced tech section is a good read about intake manifolds. Look for a guy named boost engineer.

What's the runner length and csa? From the valve. Arguably way more important than plenum area. What diameter are the holes and the rectangle, length is port entrance to the valve.
 
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bs009

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fwiw, I think at one point I mentioned to you that zzp's L67 fuel rails wouldn't fit the f-body intake but I found out recently that I was wrong about that and they should fit, ZZP just sent them to me with the fittings in the wrong spot apparently or the wrong fittings to make them fit. I can't remember but they should fit.

Seeing that intake cut up is insanely awesome!

looks like the PCV should work something like this in stock form:

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