Sorry (super popular line lock kit company), your kit is too trashy even for my free car.
Okay, that might have come off a little snobby. In fact, I am not in any way above this kind of hackery. I've made a lot of modifications to cars of which I am not too proud, but if I'm spending the money on a kit that is supposedly made specifically for my year, make, and model I expect much better.
Here is said free Camaro with the line lock already plumbed in. I was already upset at this point because none of this fit very well, and the flares were not made properly.
Pardon the rust hole right under the solenoid mounting tab. I promise that I'm not counting this against the fitment.
Now it's time for wiring which I have yet to see a nice write-up. Once again, I am very disappointed in the kit. It comes with a very cute little switch, a pretty nice momentary button/LED combo that goes in place of the cigar lighter, a fuse without a holder, and a bunch of junk that would probably get me written up if I ever attempted to use at my job.
This is unacceptable in my opinion. Like I said, the button seems really nice. However, part of the reason I'm doing the line lock is because I want to do sweet burnouts in my STICK SHIFT car! I suppose, they expect me to let go of the wheel, lean over to the button with my left hand and shift with the right? No thanks. I've got a better idea for that.
This leaves me with basically nothing, so I drew the circuit how I wanted it and got to work. Normally I wouldn't care much about this car, but the whole purpose of it was to learn new skills so that I don't screw up nice cars. Besides, the coronavirus has left me with nothing but time. I'm going to try to make this look like a factory option.
Let's pull the shifter handle off again, and investigate a bit.
The shifter handle should help make this easy. It's hollow inside which will be awesome for running wires to a button. I'll probably have to drill a hole toward the bottom so that they have somewhere to exit, but its better than running the wires along the outside.
That's about all I need to prove my concept inside. Now I can get under the hood. Look what sits right next to my solenoid! My car came with exactly one option, so my fuse and relay boxes are pretty empty. Instead of adding an aftermarket fuse and relay holder, why not add to what's already here?
This depinning tool is made specifically for GM connections, and I am so happy to have it. It's cheap, and makes this type of work so much easier.
...or so I thought. Patience is key. Speaking of keys, there are usually a lot of them on these fuse/relay centers. If something is stuck, don't force it! In addition to the many tabs that hold a fuse block in place there are keys that hold the terminals in place even if a depinning tool is inserted. It's kind of redundant, but it's there.
After that's removed it might still be a pain to get out. Look closely. You may be missing something.
Yep... That's a little odd. But it probably saved GM a dollar in wire and processes for crimping two extra wires which is huge when you're mass producing these things.
Since I do not have fog lights I will use it's relay holder to control the line lock circuit. I think that solenoid it going to draw too much current for a little switch and button. Since I won't have the led on the button like the original, I would like to add a small indicator on the dash. I think the way I have poorly drawn it will work nicely, but the LED complicates things a bit. I'm not sure where I'll get its power yet or if I should get it all from the same place and put an other fuse for the LED and control side of the relay.
Okay, that might have come off a little snobby. In fact, I am not in any way above this kind of hackery. I've made a lot of modifications to cars of which I am not too proud, but if I'm spending the money on a kit that is supposedly made specifically for my year, make, and model I expect much better.
Here is said free Camaro with the line lock already plumbed in. I was already upset at this point because none of this fit very well, and the flares were not made properly.
Pardon the rust hole right under the solenoid mounting tab. I promise that I'm not counting this against the fitment.
Now it's time for wiring which I have yet to see a nice write-up. Once again, I am very disappointed in the kit. It comes with a very cute little switch, a pretty nice momentary button/LED combo that goes in place of the cigar lighter, a fuse without a holder, and a bunch of junk that would probably get me written up if I ever attempted to use at my job.
This is unacceptable in my opinion. Like I said, the button seems really nice. However, part of the reason I'm doing the line lock is because I want to do sweet burnouts in my STICK SHIFT car! I suppose, they expect me to let go of the wheel, lean over to the button with my left hand and shift with the right? No thanks. I've got a better idea for that.
This leaves me with basically nothing, so I drew the circuit how I wanted it and got to work. Normally I wouldn't care much about this car, but the whole purpose of it was to learn new skills so that I don't screw up nice cars. Besides, the coronavirus has left me with nothing but time. I'm going to try to make this look like a factory option.
Let's pull the shifter handle off again, and investigate a bit.
The shifter handle should help make this easy. It's hollow inside which will be awesome for running wires to a button. I'll probably have to drill a hole toward the bottom so that they have somewhere to exit, but its better than running the wires along the outside.
That's about all I need to prove my concept inside. Now I can get under the hood. Look what sits right next to my solenoid! My car came with exactly one option, so my fuse and relay boxes are pretty empty. Instead of adding an aftermarket fuse and relay holder, why not add to what's already here?
This depinning tool is made specifically for GM connections, and I am so happy to have it. It's cheap, and makes this type of work so much easier.
...or so I thought. Patience is key. Speaking of keys, there are usually a lot of them on these fuse/relay centers. If something is stuck, don't force it! In addition to the many tabs that hold a fuse block in place there are keys that hold the terminals in place even if a depinning tool is inserted. It's kind of redundant, but it's there.
After that's removed it might still be a pain to get out. Look closely. You may be missing something.
Yep... That's a little odd. But it probably saved GM a dollar in wire and processes for crimping two extra wires which is huge when you're mass producing these things.
Since I do not have fog lights I will use it's relay holder to control the line lock circuit. I think that solenoid it going to draw too much current for a little switch and button. Since I won't have the led on the button like the original, I would like to add a small indicator on the dash. I think the way I have poorly drawn it will work nicely, but the LED complicates things a bit. I'm not sure where I'll get its power yet or if I should get it all from the same place and put an other fuse for the LED and control side of the relay.
