🔧 BUILD LAME Turbo V6 Camaro

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Hello! Welcome to the shit show! I am updating this post in 2021 to explain what new readers are about to witness. If I knew that this thread and build were going to explode into what it is today, I would have started it out a lot different.

This car was (and still is) a basket case. The whole inspiration for starting this project was to start learning how to modify engines in a car that I didn't like. That way, if and when I screwed up, I wouldn't be ruining a nice car. It spiraled out of control from the first moment that I felt boost. I loved what I had created, but it took a ton of work to get to where I was. As soon as I got the car running nicely I was always saying "I'm going to fix______, and THEN I'll just enjoy driving it." You know the drill. Drive, break, fix, repeat! Before I knew it, I enjoyed driving and working on this turd more than the nice car I was trying to preserve!

The point is that the focus of this thread shifts A LOT. To complicate matters, I never have just one ongoing project open at a time. I listed some thread contents with links below. I will update this as new milestones or big updates happen. Just know that even if you click on the shortcut, you may have to scroll past other project posts to reveal the outcome. There are also some mini-projects and very helpful advice from other members in between, so read the whole dang thing if you want!

2018-2019
1. A late introduction
2. Discovering how a PCV works (and plugging it)
3. Custom grill for intercooler
4. Fuel pump trap door
5. Learning that I'll never learn anything from my goofy wide band gauge
6. Deleting AC completely, but retaining heat
2020
7. Low profile heater hose fittings
8. Deleting an air bag without setting a light on the dash
9. Starting a second round of floor repairs
10. ABS delete and line lock installation
- A separate thread for the electrons
11. Installing catch cans with nice brackets (Way overkill)
12. Figuring out the "blow by" problem once and for all (F-body intake plug)
13. Second clutch job, first rear cover job, and preliminary transmission swap research
14. Floors are "done", and Interior is installed.
15. I don't know how to tune, but this wide band might help.
16. Poly trans mount. Yeah, it actually deserves a link.
17. I waved the tuning white flag. Dyno Brian sets me straight!
18. T5 Pro5.0 shifter
19. New shifter was too much fun. OG T5 explodes, and my transmission conversion ideas start to get serious.
-TKX conversion
-TKX swap official write-up
20. Reconfiguring my exhaust for a quieter and less leaky future
21. I'm not done enjoying this car for the year, so I install a $100 T5 instead of a bulletproof conversion. SPOILER ALERT: It only lasts two months.
22. Minor repairs/updates that make the car livable (lighting, stereo, speedometer re-zero, and a clutch master cylinder that actually does it's job!)
23. Wheels and addressing rust again since I got time!
2021
24. Custom center caps
25. 1.9 roller rockers and LS6 springs
26. CAI V2.0
27. TKX is delayed so it's time to address the little annoyances.
-OE pan is junk. Dorman pan gets hot rodded
28. TKX is still delayed, so I install just one poly engine mount and beef up my flimsy turbo drain plumbing
29. TKX does NOT ship the following Monday. Flywheel bolts upgraded to ARP M10 x 1.0
30. When you're on a Chinese garbage budget, you better be ready to work harder. (Oil drain fitting hot rodding)
31. Finally repairing the oil sender pig tail, replacing the other engine mount, and test fitting the TKX.
32. Finally addressing rear brake lines while I wait for more transmission parts.
33. Modifying an ICM for a WOT box
34. Dash gets re-instrumented so that diagnostics become possible.
35. N2MB WOT box
36. Porked crank key. PSA: Be careful installing your balancer!
37. Car runs great after plug change, but the rear main seal needs to be changed again.
38. BURNOUT! Also, I kinda bought a cam.
39. Turbo drain finale (better be) and full exhaust commenced
2022
40. Downpipe V3 and BMR strut tower brace
41. Panhard bar and relocation for bro truck exhaust
42. Muffler, driveshaft, torque arm, and giving up smoking.
43. First trip to the GS Nationals (feat. time slip)
44. The very custom AC project is born
45. New dyno results (up 50 hp!)
46. Exhaust hanger repair before Michigan/S.S. Badger/Wisconsin trip
47. Sizing a better turbo
48. Painting but still not installing the IS3 heads and Monster clutch unboxing
49. Firewall brace
50. New ECM
2023
51. Out of storage and SC engine buy failure #3
52. Modified double roller and spitballing crankcase evac ideas
53. Completing the rear suspension. UMI rear control arms.
54. Cracked headers and L32 swap begins
55. My newest L32 was trash. I'm upgrading the L36 instead
56. Side project: The ultimate-ish intake manifold takes shape


Now back to 2018!
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Now that this car is running and driving, I figured I would start a thread dedicated to all the questions I’m about to pummel this group with. This is the first time I've really built anything to move quicker than stock, so I'm hoping to learn a lot from you guys before I make unnecessary mistakes. I also have a thread in the Turbobuick.com 3800 section, but I'm not getting as much input there due to a lack of audience. Here goes nothing...

The car I have is a 2002 Camaro with only ONE factory option (rear window defogger). The story supposedly goes that my buddy's dad was looking forever for a new Camaro because he never buys anything for a penny more than the best deal. He almost ran out of time as this was the final model year for the F-body, and '03s were already on the market. The dealer from which he found this car bought it for the sole purpose of being able to advertise "Brand new Camaros for under $10k", so this was the one he took home.

Fast forward to 2018. The car was structurally a wreck from living in the rust belt, but has a great interior, okay black paint, a third pedal, a 3800 (which is a plus in my book), and a lot of sentimental value since I remember riding in it when it was brand new. My buddy’s dad handed me the keys in hopes that I would enjoy it and make it a race car. To be honest, I don’t care for F-bodies, but I couldn't resist this one for the reasons above despite knowing that the floors were in desperate need of existing again.

I already had my dream car which is a 1986 Buick Regal Grand National. As much as I love that car, I like it the way it is in fairly stock form and modifying Buicks has gotten terribly expensive anyway. I figured a black 3800 Camaro could easily fulfill my childhood dreams of racing a badass turbo Buick V6 car while being on a budget, so here I am.

The car is now equipped with:
-6765 ebay turbo
-Precision PW40 wastegate
-Custom turbo exhaust utilizing a stock Camaro and FWD manifolds
-Air to air ebay intercooler
-AEM 50-1200 fuel pump
-Siemens Deka 80# fuel injectors
-Open 3” downpipe
-Custom 3” charge pipes
-Intense mail order tune
-Very ugly but functional upright radiator conversion (the core support was all just rust anyway) :dunno:
-Custom space saving AC delete without bypass pulley
-Midwest Chassis bumper support modified to mount my intercooler
-Spec Stage 1 clutch kit

The car is far from refined and has a lot of little issues to sort out, but I will leave the first post as sort of an introduction to that. I hope you enjoy hearing about it. It’s been fun to build!

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sktchy

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Do not do that gt45 lol. But yeah your right. Did you have a t3 or t4 flange on your turbine housing? And you want a 3" v band exit? What's currently on it? The t67 clone I have in a box was about as good as it got on my end without getting into big money stuff and if that's somethin your interested in I'd come off of it pretty cheap. If not I'm not mad about having a backup around to play with lol

Also look into forced performance turbos. They're good quality and if you catch a sale right you can get a nice one for just a little bit over what an ebay pile costs. And you sure won't hate yourself when you hear the difference between a good one and a cheap one.

As far as the blow off valve it's just gonna make a high pitched whack when you get off the throttle rather than a flutter. Your still gonna lose all the boost in the charge piping. It'll probably be easier on your compressor wheel though.
 

bs009

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Generally in today's world most people will not even look at a compressor map compared to an engine because they want to make a big power number. People will pick a turbo based on how much power the turbo can produce and then pick an exhaust housing that fits the engine size and where you'd want to make the power.
The fun experiment is picking the turbine housing size that doesn't choke the engine too early in the RPM range and also still makes power where you want it.

I think the short of this is that unless you're doing something extra like VGT, a supercharger, or nitrous to make up the power down low you're not going to get a turbo to produce the power numbers you want and still spool quickly.
Twin scroll does help, a billet wheel will help, ball bearings might help too, but it's still going to lag otherwise.

for the BOV, I noticed that it was quicker to build the boost back up between shifts after I installed mine. I friggin love the sounds mine makes too so that alone was worth the $50 I paid for my Tial knockoff lol
The ultimate version of that though is going to be a No Lift Shift box! NLS is amazingly good!
 
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v6buicks

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Do not do that gt45 lol. But yeah your right. Did you have a t3 or t4 flange on your turbine housing? And you want a 3" v band exit? What's currently on it? The t67 clone I have in a box was about as good as it got on my end without getting into big money stuff and if that's somethin your interested in I'd come off of it pretty cheap. If not I'm not mad about having a backup around to play with lol

Also look into forced performance turbos. They're good quality and if you catch a sale right you can get a nice one for just a little bit over what an ebay pile costs. And you sure won't hate yourself when you hear the difference between a good one and a cheap one.

As far as the blow off valve it's just gonna make a high pitched whack when you get off the throttle rather than a flutter. Your still gonna lose all the boost in the charge piping. It'll probably be easier on your compressor wheel though.
I have a regular single scroll T4 with a 3" v-band outlet. I would like the same thing but as a twin scroll. I'm willing to compromise a bit though. I can modify my down pipe if need be.

Edit: I think the turbo I have is already a T67 clone.
Generally in today's world most people will not even look at a compressor map compared to an engine because they want to make a big power number. People will pick a turbo based on how much power the turbo can produce and then pick an exhaust housing that fits the engine size and where you'd want to make the power.
The fun experiment is picking the turbine housing size that doesn't choke the engine too early in the RPM range and also still makes power where you want it.

I think the short of this is that unless you're doing something extra like VGT, a supercharger, or nitrous to make up the power down low you're not going to get a turbo to produce the power numbers you want and still spool quickly.
Twin scroll does help, a billet wheel will help, ball bearings might help too, but it's still going to lag otherwise.

for the BOV, I noticed that it was quicker to build the boost back up between shifts after I installed mine. I friggin love the sounds mine makes too so that alone was worth the $50 I paid for my Tial knockoff lol
The ultimate version of that though is going to be a No Lift Shift box! NLS is amazingly good!
That's where the quick spool valve comes in! Twin scroll is effectively useless when the exhaust banks are already merged before the turbo like mine, but this valve makes it better than even a traditional twin scroll set-up.
If I get a BOV sound is going to be my main buying point. I actually like the sound of my compressor surge because that's what Grand Nationals do too. I'm sure I can get one that sounds similar. but I wouldn't want to spend much more than $250.
 
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v6buicks

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Sigh... so many dreams, but I still need a $1600 clutch plus everything that's required to make it fit. ? I'm probably going to get that process started very soon. Now that I actually have a bunch of cool stuff to install that are worthless without a clutch, I might be able to justify taking that hit. I sure as hell hope this one will last longer than all the others!

I have to remember that my flywheel holes are bigger before I send it out for mirror balancing. In fact, I should probably make the request to Monster that the holes be enlarged for M10 x1.0 instead of attempting it myself. My method worked on the stock flywheel, but I think that was a matter of luck.
 
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v6buicks

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I've been experiencing a clunk in this car ever since I did all that work with the exhaust and rear end. Yesterday it sounded like it had gotten a lot worse. I had to figure out where it was coming from or else I wasn't taking it up to MI. Turns out it's not only the dumbest clunk I've ever seen, but something I could fix with a couple tack welds in a matter of minutes.
 
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v6buicks

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Welded, painted it black, and put it back.
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Clunks still remain, but this definitely helped. I about guarantee the rest are related to control arm bushings. They're the only ones I haven't had the opportunity to replace, and I've isolated that noise to only happen when I have the suspension loaded up funny and going giving it some load. Considering the insane amount of extra load these poor bushings have been under since doubling the power output and planting the tires with the UMI torque arm, I'd say they're toast.
 

v6buicks

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Success! Car made the trip and ran great the whole way. Clunks got way worse, but I blame MI roads a lot more than the car. ?

I was a little bit later than anticipated though. I checked the oil. It stinked to high heaven and was quite dark, so I changed it before I left. Nbd. I guess 3k is about my limit.
 

v6buicks

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I bought a Monster twin disk. They said that they could match the balance, but I would either need to send them another entire flywheel and pressure late or tell them the specs. This is weird because they must have just assumed bs009 bs009 was internally rebalancing his short block. I'm no machinist, so I'm not going to even attempt to figure the spec on my own. Shipping the part might end up costing more than just having it balanced by a local shop anyway. I also haven't decided for sure if I'm putting this clutch on my L36 or a known good L67 short block. I have a lot of time to think about that.

I also have to consider that a lot of Fiero folks including West Coast Fieros just toss L36 flywheels on L67s without any consideration for balance. ?‍♂️ I might ask the Facebook page for input on that. I don't LIKE the idea of such disregard, but if it works without taking years off the engine's life I won't make a big fuss.
 
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v6buicks

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It's a few ounce inches difference between the two the measure flex plate is designed for the na engines and is balanced to 20 oz inches I believe they have it posted in there listings.
I've had l67 Flex plates balance in at 21 and 22 oz in
But like where does the weight have to go? I think I'd have a hard time explaining that part.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Remember these engines are near net weight balanced the crankshaft is balanced by itself to a certain spec and hopefully all the rods and pistons are really close in their weights. But due to factory tolerances and variations of what gets pulled out of the bin it can vary from what it's supposed to.

If you got that custom flywheel balanced to 21 oz in, it should work pretty well for both engine short block configurations

Hell cut up an old bicycle wheel and make yourself your own balancing fixture and just comparatively balance it to your current flywheel all you need then is a drill press or a hand drill
 
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bs009

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Not going to lie, I'm still getting vibration in mine right now. No idea if it's from the flywheel or what but I can't imagine it's much else at this point.

If you go to a local shop I would have them do it the right way and send them a crank and rod/piston deal. I got taken pretty hard locally to even do the half-ass balance that this shop in Nashville did to mine. Paid like $300, took them 6 months and was really disappointed in the results and communication. They quoted me 'a couple weeks' to finish it.
If anyone is reading this in Nashville I can't recommend enough to not go to schacklet downtown.

Love the clutch otherwise though. Way lighter than my old spec stage 5 and takes the power like a champ. Hope it all works out for you!
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Almost any machine shop that does balancing in house will have no problem doing what is called a comparative balance to get one flywheel to match another. The problem is is most machine shops do not have the money for a rotating assembly balancer or otherwise... so they have to farm it out to a company like Balanstar or a bigger machine shop in town
 

v6buicks

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I agree that if the entire assembly needed to to balanced together no matter the change, then stock replacement flywheels, flex plates, and dampers wouldn't be able to exist without issues.

Ben, I can't remember your entire situation. Did you install that clutch at the same time as the T56? Are you sure it's entirely RPM dependent? With it being so much lighter than stock is it possible that the weight is causing an issue? I've heard of people having really strange symptoms with lightened flywheels.
 

bs009

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I first had my old spec stage 3+ that I installed with the T56. That clutch was basically fried as soon as I put it in apparently though so I bought the monster right after power tour and sent it to the machine shop. I wanted to get the car going again right away though so I bought a spec stage 5 and threw that in there until about 2 months ago when I finally put the monster in.
The machine shop mirrored the balance of an L67 flexplate I had lying around.

It's definitely RPM dependent but I did also install the cam at the same time as the monster clutch so it could also be the missing balance shaft causing the vibration too though. No idea though honestly if it being so much lighter is causing it either. the flywheel is lighter than the stock one for sure but I think the whole clutch assembly might be pretty similar in weight since it's a twin disc
 
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v6buicks

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I first had my old spec stage 3+ that I installed with the T56. That clutch was basically fried as soon as I put it in apparently though so I bought the monster right after power tour and sent it to the machine shop. I wanted to get the car going again right away though so I bought a spec stage 5 and threw that in there until about 2 months ago when I finally put the monster in.
The machine shop mirrored the balance of an L67 flexplate I had lying around.

It's definitely RPM dependent but I did also install the cam at the same time as the monster clutch so it could also be the missing balance shaft causing the vibration too though. No idea though honestly if it being so much lighter is causing it either. the flywheel is lighter than the stock one for sure but I think the whole clutch assembly might be pretty similar in weight since it's a twin disc
Welp. Very hard to say then. I've never heard anyone complain about vibration after deleting the balance shaft, but that's the very reason why it's there! Best I can do to help is make you not alone when my car starts doing the same shit after installing this clutch with and an ST5 cam. ?

What RPM do you notice it? Does it matter if it's under load or not?
 

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