🔧 BUILD LAME Turbo V6 Camaro

[10sec]

There should be about 1/2" to 3/4" of free play in the clutch, someone might have been adjusting it to help a worn out clutch in it's past? BUT a high release point is what you want in a sports car, but again, you need that minimum travel before the clutch starts to release.

As for your crankcase pressure, I am not sure where you're at with that or what questions you've asked/had answered already?

 

[v6buicks]

There should be about 1/2" to 3/4" of free play in the clutch, someone might have been adjusting it to help a worn out clutch in it's past? BUT a high release point is what you want in a sports car, but again, you need that minimum travel before the clutch starts to release.

As for your crankcase pressure, I am not sure where you're at with that or what questions you've asked/had answered already?

Interesting. That's possible. I actually don't recall any free play in the pedal, but I can check for sure when I get home. Even if there wasn't I don't know how I would go about changing that on a hydraulic system.

I don't really remember what questions I asked either. It seemed to be decided that I just need a good catch can and vents because my static compression numbers are good. I have some new in box NOS aluminum valve covers that I plan to drill out and weld -12AN bungs on to. Then I'll run two hoses from each valve cover to a Moroso breather tank with two fittings on it. What I'm not sure about is whether I then need to retain the stock PCV or plug it? I don't see it being an issue either way, but I figure I'll have less oil going to the catch can if I keep the PCV. What do you think?

 

[10sec]

Do you have a breather on the valve cover? In replaces the stock oil cap, some people run two of the front valve covers so there's a vent on each side.

 

[v6buicks]

Do you have a breather on the valve cover? In replaces the stock oil cap, some people run two of the front valve covers so there's a vent on each side.

View attachment 43761

I have one, but I took it off because it was making a huge mess. Obviously that was the wrong choice! Does it make sense that when I still had it installed that I blew out my dipstick? Maybe I just needed the one on the other side?

 

[10sec]

It doesn't make sense, and you said your PCV is working? Is it backwards?

 

[Mattstrike]

I've had the same issue with the SSEi and my truck - those vent oil cap things catch the oil mist, saturates the filter element, then starts dripping/blowing the oil mist everywhere.

I thought I had given some good advice about the PCV stuff. No need to plug or bypass the stock PCV system. Just check valves and the catch can / breather. I want to say I have one of these lying around somewhere that has a very low pressure opening force (flows very easily in one direction, then blocks back flow just as easily): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J64ZQX6/?tag=tcg21-20

 

[RICH17]

Yup, time to add a catch can

 

[v6buicks]

It doesn't make sense, and you said your PCV is working? Is it backwards?

PCV is new, but a junky aftermarket unit. I was hoping I would be able to use the "HD" Grand National PCV made by RJC, but it does not fit the same way. It's hard to explain without pictures. Honestly, I don't notice any difference between a confirmed blocked PCV with JB weld and a working one anyway. The only better choice I can find is an OEM GN PCV, but they're no longer available so I don't want to rely on something unsustainable.

I've had the same issue with the SSEi and my truck - those vent oil cap things catch the oil mist, saturates the filter element, then starts dripping/blowing the oil mist everywhere.

I thought I had given some good advice about the PCV stuff. No need to plug or bypass the stock PCV system. Just check valves and the catch can / breather. I want to say I have one of these lying around somewhere that has a very low pressure opening force (flows very easily in one direction, then blocks back flow just as easily): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J64ZQX6/?tag=tcg21-20

This was my idea behind my breather. There's no way that it's not just completely blocked full of oil. That single might hold just enough pressure to pop the dipstick.

I'm not saying your advice was bad. I just haven't made the time or money to nicely install a good catch can due to more pressing issues with both this car and others. The only good way I can picture installing one in the Camaro is with an AC delete firewall plate. I was hoping not to open that can of worms for a while, but I might now. I still don't think I understand the point of the check valve though. I can get check valves easy enough, but I don't understand the need to check either direction. Blocking the crank case pressure defeats the point, and blocking vacuum seems silly because its all going to to get sucked through the PCV anyway?

 

[Mattstrike]

I still don't think I understand the point of the check valve though. I can get check valves easy enough, but I don't understand the need to check either direction. Blocking the crank case pressure defeats the point, and blocking vacuum seems silly because its all going to to get sucked through the PCV anyway?

Ok. Back to the air compressor tank illustration.

Turbo pressurizes the entire intake, blow by pressurizes the crankcase. Air has nowhere to go, so you add ports on the valve covers to a catch can or breather or whatever. Crank case pressure can now exit the block without blowing out your gaskets and seals. However, at idle, air will be drawn in through it (black arrows). This air is unmetered. You need check valves to prevent that air from coming in.

This allows the crankcase to stay at vacuum (flowing air from the non-vac side of the TB through the crankcase then PCV valve) when you're not in boost, retaining PCV function for the 95% of the time operating conditions. Blocking off the PCV valve doesn't do anything. This is the simplest, least effort thing you can do to retain PCV with a turbo and relieve crankcase pressure. It's not a closed system, it's not a complete solution, you need a check valve on the throttle body port still, etc...

 

[v6buicks]

Ok. Back to the air compressor tank illustration.

Turbo pressurizes the entire intake, blow by pressurizes the crankcase. Air has nowhere to go, so you add ports on the valve covers to a catch can or breather or whatever. Crank case pressure can now exit the block without blowing out your gaskets and seals. However, at idle, air will be drawn in through it (black arrows). This air is unmetered. You need check valves to prevent that air from coming in.

This allows the crankcase to stay at vacuum (flowing air from the non-vac side of the TB through the crankcase then PCV valve) when you're not in boost, retaining PCV function for the 95% of the time operating conditions. Blocking off the PCV valve doesn't do anything. This is the simplest, least effort thing you can do to retain PCV with a turbo and relieve crankcase pressure. It's not a closed system, it's not a complete solution, you need a check valve on the throttle body port still, etc...

Thank you! Sorry to make you repeat yourself. It makes a lot more sense now though. Yeah, the crank case is under vacuum at idle but not actually FLOWING anything unless you put an unchecked vent in the crank case in which fresh air can be drawn in through the PCV and bypassing the MAF. Right? Sorry I'm slow. I don't know why I got so hung up on that.

I didn't think about the size of check valve I would need for -12 hoses though. At $60 a piece plus $100 tank and $50 hose the PCV system might end up being the single most expensive part of the car!

 

[v6buicks]

Small updates:

I started taking care of the hole I made in the back.

New video by GN Jon

photos.app.goo.gl

I'm not entirely proud of this, but it's better than having a huge hole in the floor. It's not weather proof, but I don't think it really needs to be. The tank is tucked in to this area so tight that not much is going to make it through. The carpet will take care of the rest.

I also tossed the PCV plug back in until I get the catch can set-up figured out. The car is running noticeably richer at idle and part-throttle However, the clutch I tossed in at the beginning of the summer is already toast! I'm not sure what to make of that yet. I haven't been particularly hard on it. Yeah, of course the car makes a lot more power than stock, but I have only attempted a 1st gear launch once because the clutch slipped really bad instead of the skinnier than stock tires. Now it slips even if I stab it from a roll. I didn't think there were any shims needed on this car, but I must have set something up incorrectly. I'll add a clutch disk to the list of things to do this winter.

The Buick GS Nationals begin on Wednesday, so my main focus has been on the GN. It doesn't need much, but I always want it to be looking it's best for this event. I actually had plans earlier in the year to invade it with the Camaro because I think the Buick guys would really get a kick out of it. It's a good thing I abandoned those ideas months ago though, because I'd really be scrambling to get it "right" again like I did for Power Tour. Obviously that didn't go to well for me either! It's time to slow down and get things done right.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

What clutch are you running? Just a stocker or something else? Just kind of curious. Making power is a good thing but it has a price.

 

[v6buicks]

What clutch are you running? Just a stocker or something else? Just kind of curious. Making power is a good thing but it has a price.

I'm running this. I didn't want anything too grippy, but I'm thinking I need to upgrade a little more than this.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SXC-SC821

It probably just needs a disc. My rear main seal is leaking and probably saturated the friction.

 

[10sec]

I don't think that clutch has enough clamping force for your application. I can't find the specs of TQ each stage can handle, but just looking at them the best one IMO for your car would be the stage 3+ Especially if you're going to eventually take it to the track on some sticky tires, it'll have the clamping force and the bite to slip the clutch on the launch. The one you have now could get smoked with the engine being stock, it's basically the same thing as stock with a little more clamping force.

 

[v6buicks]

I don't think that clutch has enough clamping force for your application. I can't find the specs of TQ each stage can handle, but just looking at them the best one IMO for your car would be the stage 3+ Especially if you're going to eventually take it to the track on some sticky tires, it'll have the clamping force and the bite to slip the clutch on the launch. The one you have now could get smoked with the engine being stock, it's basically the same thing as stock with a little more clamping force.

Yeah, it's kinda lame that a lot of these places just post "stage" claims as opposed to real numbers. I usually stay away from those, but in the short time I had to research I wasn't able find anything else. Part of the trouble is having a V6 Camaro application where people are not really building them enough (especially with a T5) to offer much aftermarket upgrade support anyway. Would you recommend sticking with the disc or maybe a 6 puck? Keep in mind that hitting the track is going to be rare for me. Comfort and ease of driving is important for me.

 

[10sec]

The disc is much more street friendly, once you get to the pucks those things chatter a lot and it's HELLA annoying to drive. You don't have a lightened flywheel or anything, right?

 

[v6buicks]

The disc is much more street friendly, once you get to the pucks those things chatter a lot and it's HELLA annoying to drive. You don't have a lightened flywheel or anything, right?

That was my understanding too. Nope. Stock replacement flywheel from O'Reilly.

 

[10sec]

Good, stock weight is the best.

 

[v6buicks]

I don't think I ever fully understood the point of a lightweight flywheel. Is the idea just to get rid of rotating mass? I'm not getting one because Id be scared of it being easily warped or blowing apart. I'm just curious.

 

[10sec]

In a road racing scenario it helps the motor rev quicker and reduces the overall weight of the car, for anything else it is impractical and rarely something you find on cars these days.

 

[v6buicks]

Sorry for this tease of an update... I just felt the need to say that this almost freezing weather in Southern Indiana is awesome when I'm driving the Camaro!

My GN is already in storage because we have salt on the ground, which was supposed to mean that the Camaro gets all the love. Negative. My girlfriend's Volvo 240 decided that now was the ideal time to have a complete braking failure. This was ultra convenient with the garage being completely empty for once, but now shes driving my Volvo and I'm dailying the Camaro. Let's hope that I can knock these lines and calipers out fairly quickly, so that I can get back to the fun stuff. I can't say I've ever sheared the head off a brake line nut before.

On the bright side, I'm one big leap closer to the girlfriend being fed up with this car and selling it to me. I have 3800 swap mounts ready to go into this thing.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

 

[TurboTJ]

3800 swap mounts you say?!?! interested lol

 

[v6buicks]

3800 swap mounts you say?!?! interested lol

Yep! They're solid mounts, but they would work with a little hacking of the Volvo K-member. Modifying the trans crossmember for a 4l60e is cake. The "kit" came with some really junky modified exhaust manifolds with 3-bolt turbo flanges (one of which is now modified by myself to fit the Camaro) and a modified oil pan with two -10 oil returns. However, the builder never actually finished the project and didn't account for the oil pick-up tube which I know doesn't fit. Instead of trying to make a custom oil pick-up I'd rather keep the stock oil capacity and modify the k-member.

 

[TurboTJ]

I was thinking maybe you had a line on something as far as mounts, im sure i will have to create custom if i end up with a swapped car, or i guess itll be easiest.