🔧 BUILD LAME Turbo V6 Camaro

General Information

Hello! Welcome to the shit show! I am updating this post in 2021 to explain what new readers are about to witness. If I knew that this thread and build were going to explode into what it is today, I would have started it out a lot different.

This car was (and still is) a basket case. The whole inspiration for starting this project was to start learning how to modify engines in a car that I didn't like. That way, if and when I screwed up, I wouldn't be ruining a nice car. It spiraled out of control from the first moment that I felt boost. I loved what I had created, but it took a ton of work to get to where I was. As soon as I got the car running nicely I was always saying "I'm going to fix______, and THEN I'll just enjoy driving it." You know the drill. Drive, break, fix, repeat! Before I knew it, I enjoyed driving and working on this turd more than the nice car I was trying to preserve!

The point is that the focus of this thread shifts A LOT. To complicate matters, I never have just one ongoing project open at a time. I listed some thread contents with links below. I will update this as new milestones or big updates happen. Just know that even if you click on the shortcut, you may have to scroll past other project posts to reveal the outcome. There are also some mini-projects and very helpful advice from other members in between, so read the whole dang thing if you want!

2018-2019
1. A late introduction
2. Discovering how a PCV works (and plugging it)
3. Custom grill for intercooler
4. Fuel pump trap door
5. Learning that I'll never learn anything from my goofy wide band gauge
6. Deleting AC completely, but retaining heat
2020
7. Low profile heater hose fittings
8. Deleting an air bag without setting a light on the dash
9. Starting a second round of floor repairs
10. ABS delete and line lock installation
- A separate thread for the electrons
11. Installing catch cans with nice brackets (Way overkill)
12. Figuring out the "blow by" problem once and for all (F-body intake plug)
13. Second clutch job, first rear cover job, and preliminary transmission swap research
14. Floors are "done", and Interior is installed.
15. I don't know how to tune, but this wide band might help.
16. Poly trans mount. Yeah, it actually deserves a link.
17. I waved the tuning white flag. Dyno Brian sets me straight!
18. T5 Pro5.0 shifter
19. New shifter was too much fun. OG T5 explodes, and my transmission conversion ideas start to get serious.
-TKX conversion
-TKX swap official write-up
20. Reconfiguring my exhaust for a quieter and less leaky future
21. I'm not done enjoying this car for the year, so I install a $100 T5 instead of a bulletproof conversion. SPOILER ALERT: It only lasts two months.
22. Minor repairs/updates that make the car livable (lighting, stereo, speedometer re-zero, and a clutch master cylinder that actually does it's job!)
23. Wheels and addressing rust again since I got time!
2021
24. Custom center caps
25. 1.9 roller rockers and LS6 springs
26. CAI V2.0
27. TKX is delayed so it's time to address the little annoyances.
-OE pan is junk. Dorman pan gets hot rodded
28. TKX is still delayed, so I install just one poly engine mount and beef up my flimsy turbo drain plumbing
29. TKX does NOT ship the following Monday. Flywheel bolts upgraded to ARP M10 x 1.0
30. When you're on a Chinese garbage budget, you better be ready to work harder. (Oil drain fitting hot rodding)
31. Finally repairing the oil sender pig tail, replacing the other engine mount, and test fitting the TKX.
32. Finally addressing rear brake lines while I wait for more transmission parts.
33. Modifying an ICM for a WOT box
34. Dash gets re-instrumented so that diagnostics become possible.
35. N2MB WOT box
36. Porked crank key. PSA: Be careful installing your balancer!
37. Car runs great after plug change, but the rear main seal needs to be changed again.
38. BURNOUT! Also, I kinda bought a cam.
39. Turbo drain finale (better be) and full exhaust commenced
2022
40. Downpipe V3 and BMR strut tower brace
41. Panhard bar and relocation for bro truck exhaust
42. Muffler, driveshaft, torque arm, and giving up smoking.
43. First trip to the GS Nationals (feat. time slip)
44. The very custom AC project is born
45. New dyno results (up 50 hp!)
46. Exhaust hanger repair before Michigan/S.S. Badger/Wisconsin trip
47. Sizing a better turbo
48. Painting but still not installing the IS3 heads and Monster clutch unboxing
49. Firewall brace
50. New ECM
2023
51. Out of storage and SC engine buy failure #3
52. Modified double roller and spitballing crankcase evac ideas
53. Completing the rear suspension. UMI rear control arms.
54. Cracked headers and L32 swap begins
55. My newest L32 was trash. I'm upgrading the L36 instead
56. Side project: The ultimate-ish intake manifold takes shape


Now back to 2018!
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Now that this car is running and driving, I figured I would start a thread dedicated to all the questions I’m about to pummel this group with. This is the first time I've really built anything to move quicker than stock, so I'm hoping to learn a lot from you guys before I make unnecessary mistakes. I also have a thread in the Turbobuick.com 3800 section, but I'm not getting as much input there due to a lack of audience. Here goes nothing...

The car I have is a 2002 Camaro with only ONE factory option (rear window defogger). The story supposedly goes that my buddy's dad was looking forever for a new Camaro because he never buys anything for a penny more than the best deal. He almost ran out of time as this was the final model year for the F-body, and '03s were already on the market. The dealer from which he found this car bought it for the sole purpose of being able to advertise "Brand new Camaros for under $10k", so this was the one he took home.

Fast forward to 2018. The car was structurally a wreck from living in the rust belt, but has a great interior, okay black paint, a third pedal, a 3800 (which is a plus in my book), and a lot of sentimental value since I remember riding in it when it was brand new. My buddy’s dad handed me the keys in hopes that I would enjoy it and make it a race car. To be honest, I don’t care for F-bodies, but I couldn't resist this one for the reasons above despite knowing that the floors were in desperate need of existing again.

I already had my dream car which is a 1986 Buick Regal Grand National. As much as I love that car, I like it the way it is in fairly stock form and modifying Buicks has gotten terribly expensive anyway. I figured a black 3800 Camaro could easily fulfill my childhood dreams of racing a badass turbo Buick V6 car while being on a budget, so here I am.

The car is now equipped with:
-6765 ebay turbo
-Precision PW40 wastegate
-Custom turbo exhaust utilizing a stock Camaro and FWD manifolds
-Air to air ebay intercooler
-AEM 50-1200 fuel pump
-Siemens Deka 80# fuel injectors
-Open 3” downpipe
-Custom 3” charge pipes
-Intense mail order tune
-Very ugly but functional upright radiator conversion (the core support was all just rust anyway) :dunno:
-Custom space saving AC delete without bypass pulley
-Midwest Chassis bumper support modified to mount my intercooler
-Spec Stage 1 clutch kit

The car is far from refined and has a lot of little issues to sort out, but I will leave the first post as sort of an introduction to that. I hope you enjoy hearing about it. It’s been fun to build!

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v6buicks

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I'm not regretting the whole GN look yet, but it would have been easier if I didn't care about that. Having the turbo face forward with a filter right on the inlet would have been the most preferable if anybody else was doing this. lol We'll see what I come up with. I decided not to screw with it for now. The elbow works just fine if not better than what I had. It just looks kinda lousy and out of place.
 

v6buicks

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It would be interesting, but I'd be a bit concerned about the protrusion making turbulence if it's so close to the MAF. Then again, that kinda where mine was from the factory. Ideally I'd put mine where my EGR tube used to be, but that section of the intake is so meaty. I don't think I'd have enough air passing by the sensor for it to read properly. Maybe I'll pull the plug and check that out tomorrow.
 
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v6buicks

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Update: I lied.

The realization that I never once entertained that idea initially just hit me. This is dumb since I tapped that hole for 3/8" NPT! Now I'm mad, and I'm not waiting until tomorrow.
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Oof... Okay so that's the bad side. There's about an inch of meat over there. I couldn't get an easy pic of the other side, but there's much less in the way there. The sensor would not exactly protrude into the direct flow path, but I'm sure it would work fine. What do you guys think?
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If anything else it sure would LOOK cool there after shortening that harness!
 
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Mattstrike

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Feb 13, 2014
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Mattstrike literally lives in the early 1990's.

Hey now, I 3D print stuff, you couldn't do that in the 90's. Besides, delta T is delta T. I don't recall hacking a hole in mine to stuff the filter down in the fenderwell, just removed the airbox and there was a hole there that needed to be... um, well, you know.

everything 3800 is living in the 90s really.
 
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Mattstrike

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Feb 13, 2014
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Update: I lied.
...
The sensor would not exactly protrude into the direct flow path, but I'm sure it would work fine. What do you guys think?
...


I think it's going to be subject to heat soak if it's not directly protruding into the airflow, especially since it's threaded into the manifold. That behavior might be desirable and directly tuned for, but it's not going to be very quick to react to changes in the intake temperature (all brass housing is going to transfer heat from the IM to the sensor more efficiently than the open element type IAT sensors).


The brass screw-in sensors typically fit into the air filter box, which is plastic so no significant heat transfer from the engine alters the reading. A lot of series 2 cars use a plastic body sensor that fits a rubber grommet/hole.
 

Mattstrike

Random Crazy Custom Car guy
Feb 13, 2014
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I'm lost. What am I good for? Lol. I thought the only difference between these and the stock one was threaded brass vs. push-in plastic.

When you say screw-in brass sensors, this is what most of them look like:
TX3T_Front__ra_p.jpg


Which is what I (and likely a few other here) thought you were using - since the threaded open element type sensors stopped being the norm in like 1989. These are super slow to react to air temperature changes, and the body of the sensor conducts heat from whatever it's screwed into.


I'm not sure what kind of sensor GTPpower is talking about that is going to be faster response compared to the open element type, and how a 3800 pcm is going to use it, since the PCM is expecting a thermistor?
 
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Mattstrike

Random Crazy Custom Car guy
Feb 13, 2014
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Yeah, you would have to switch to a thermocouple to get accurate readings. But the pcm can't use that, it would have to just be standalone data.

I figured that was the case. I've had to dick around with thermisters and thermocouples with my 3d printer stuff to know which ones work better for certain applications. I guess given the context here though, since the PCM can't use a thermocouple, I don't see how you can use them to tune since the PCM is only going to see the IAT sensor output. Maybe I'm just being narrowminded again but I'm interested in the knowledge.
 

v6buicks

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When you say screw-in brass sensors, this is what most of them look like:
TX3T_Front__ra_p.jpg


Which is what I (and likely a few other here) thought you were using - since the threaded open element type sensors stopped being the norm in like 1989. These are super slow to react to air temperature changes, and the body of the sensor conducts heat from whatever it's screwed into.


I'm not sure what kind of sensor GTPpower is talking about that is going to be faster response compared to the open element type, and how a 3800 pcm is going to use it, since the PCM is expecting a thermistor?
Oh jeez. I didn't know this style was used for IATs. I would have pointed at that and said ECT right away. Does this mean I could get away with using my current IAT in the location I posted? Yeah it's slow, but it's going to be slow everywhere right? I'd just hate to drill another hole in my intake tube. The harness looked tacky the way I had it too.
 

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