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The neglected maintenance thread
- Thread starter DEEZUZ
- Start date
My Ford Ranger has no rear view mirror, no radio deck, no speakers anywhere, and no cruise control (which bothers actually bothers me).
This is the way it was purchased used and I miss it! Can't wait to be able to drive it again.
Oh jeez, we've been a little strapped for cash the last few months so my car is trying to plug away. Luckily 99% of the stuff I'm neglecting is all little BS things that aren't a negative impact on safety.
-Odometer/DIC hasn't worked in who knows how long...have the resistors to fix, lazy.
-Passenger side window motor took a shit a few weeks ago...have shit jammed in the door frame to keep the window up...lazy
-serpentine belt...isn't bad, just is getting old and I've had a replacement for it for at least a year
-s/c coupler...that and the fluid hasn't been changed in 4 years. I've had a ZZP one/GM fluid in my possession for a couple years now.
-misc trim that is deciding to crack and break, CD drive in the radio freaks out on occasion, and sometimes the key doesn't come outta the ignition until I can get the shifter to click.
Actual bad things:
-needs struts like a year ago.
-Front rotors are just beginning to warp after 2+ years of awesome life. Need to do that before winter hits.
-needs front sway bar bushings and driver's side LCA.
-Odometer/DIC hasn't worked in who knows how long...have the resistors to fix, lazy.
-Passenger side window motor took a shit a few weeks ago...have shit jammed in the door frame to keep the window up...lazy
-serpentine belt...isn't bad, just is getting old and I've had a replacement for it for at least a year
-s/c coupler...that and the fluid hasn't been changed in 4 years. I've had a ZZP one/GM fluid in my possession for a couple years now.
-misc trim that is deciding to crack and break, CD drive in the radio freaks out on occasion, and sometimes the key doesn't come outta the ignition until I can get the shifter to click.
Actual bad things:
-needs struts like a year ago.
-Front rotors are just beginning to warp after 2+ years of awesome life. Need to do that before winter hits.
-needs front sway bar bushings and driver's side LCA.
You're welcome
Truck: Needs tires rotated. I could really use to do some rust clean up before winter... but whatever. Might toss a fresh set of batts in it for the winter.
VW: All good.
Vette: Only had it for a few weeks, doesnt need anything... yet. Will after the 1/2 mile and day at the full track @ Autobahn though...
Honda: Almost due for oil change. Needs a battery before winter.
BMW: Needs front brakes, bad. Rear drivers tire has a slow leak. Due for an oil change and filter check.
Capri:
It probably wants a few trans brake solenoids, but whatever. I need to sell it!
last track day my 2nd to last session i thought i felt fade. looked at my pads, front seemed ok, rear seemed close but ok. never ran through a set of rears faster than front. they went on in may, the rear a week after the front. the rear are one step down in temp class from carbotech.
tracked and felt ok, but pedal did was going further down for sure esp once off and just putzing around. i have pretty high temp stuff and a light car but perhaps it got toasty. also a bit of a draggy brake noise but i just thought it was a pads are close not gone.
with working and quitting my old job and a bachelor party coming up i just didn't have any free time to do the brakes. eventually my parking brake light came on and i noticed my brake reservoir was under min, so figured the pistons were just quite extended in the rear. didn't wash the wheels (stupid) so they built up a combo of track pad and rust... which seemed to be from the backing plate now that i threw new stuff on.
i think the 2nd to last session i used up all rear brake then the last was just smashing/bending backing plate into rotor. then i drove on them (intermittently, when home) for a couple weeks.
these are direct links to fbk status update stuff so not sure how long they will actually stick around, but think they will work for now.
this ended up being the best looking rear pad
the 2 worst
wheels could be better. but came out not awful. back on with new cryo rear rotors and new xp8 pads (same temp as front) - one of my front pads was pretty done, the others looked like they could do at least 1 track day... went ahead and changed them. waiting for traffic to die down to go bed them on 94 and eat at the lake forest oasis while they cool down.
tracked and felt ok, but pedal did was going further down for sure esp once off and just putzing around. i have pretty high temp stuff and a light car but perhaps it got toasty. also a bit of a draggy brake noise but i just thought it was a pads are close not gone.
with working and quitting my old job and a bachelor party coming up i just didn't have any free time to do the brakes. eventually my parking brake light came on and i noticed my brake reservoir was under min, so figured the pistons were just quite extended in the rear. didn't wash the wheels (stupid) so they built up a combo of track pad and rust... which seemed to be from the backing plate now that i threw new stuff on.
i think the 2nd to last session i used up all rear brake then the last was just smashing/bending backing plate into rotor. then i drove on them (intermittently, when home) for a couple weeks.
these are direct links to fbk status update stuff so not sure how long they will actually stick around, but think they will work for now.
this ended up being the best looking rear pad
the 2 worst
wheels could be better. but came out not awful. back on with new cryo rear rotors and new xp8 pads (same temp as front) - one of my front pads was pretty done, the others looked like they could do at least 1 track day... went ahead and changed them. waiting for traffic to die down to go bed them on 94 and eat at the lake forest oasis while they cool down.
i don't think that's the case. oil is certainly better now, at least if you are running synthetics. i am lazy and change at 5-6k, i think any oil analysis i have sent in to blackstone for analysis they've even said i could run longer. my last sample had 10 track days and e85 on it. if i drove a normal car normally i'd probably change at 10k and change filter at 5k.
So I swore to myself when I got back from vacation I'd dig deep into my main vehicle, the dooty. I've neglected this thing so much I don't know how it hasn't left me stranded
I've never had the valve covers off once since I've owned it... Usually on any PS they are off once or twice a year. Their finally coming off though so I can see what injectors I truly have and also to change the glow plugs that I've had in my center console for 3 years now.
My main issue was a horrid oil leak that I once believed was the turbo Pedestal but it looks like it might be the high pressure pump... Hmm, a free o ring to fix or just upgrade to a higher pressure(less reliable) pump ($800)....
I've never had the valve covers off once since I've owned it... Usually on any PS they are off once or twice a year. Their finally coming off though so I can see what injectors I truly have and also to change the glow plugs that I've had in my center console for 3 years now.
My main issue was a horrid oil leak that I once believed was the turbo Pedestal but it looks like it might be the high pressure pump... Hmm, a free o ring to fix or just upgrade to a higher pressure(less reliable) pump ($800)....
Clean for sure...
Oil changes on my car depend on the oil going in....
I went out 13K...couldn't do the 25K that they said I could...if I use the Kendall semi-synth from Firestone, it's 5K max. Just threw in some Mobil 1 Extended Performance, plan to go out to 7500-10K on this. Ford 4.6 motors are notorious for taking whatever you throw at it, so giving it good oil, with a bit longer intervals? Seems good with me. Thing runs like a fucking champ, a champ that's slower than balls, but a champ nonetheless.
Tires need to be rotated, just got the reminder from my Carfax app. Should probably check the pressures, but they looks good enough...air filter? Changed it about 1.5 years ago, and haven't thought about it since....should probably figure that one out. Was actually pretty proactive with my brakes, pads were looking pretty thin, so changed them BEFORE they started grinding...still need to do a brake fluid flush...should probably do a fuel filter one of these days...oh and the cabin air filter...isn't that a thing?
Oil changes on my car depend on the oil going in....
I went out 13K...couldn't do the 25K that they said I could...if I use the Kendall semi-synth from Firestone, it's 5K max. Just threw in some Mobil 1 Extended Performance, plan to go out to 7500-10K on this. Ford 4.6 motors are notorious for taking whatever you throw at it, so giving it good oil, with a bit longer intervals? Seems good with me. Thing runs like a fucking champ, a champ that's slower than balls, but a champ nonetheless.Tires need to be rotated, just got the reminder from my Carfax app. Should probably check the pressures, but they looks good enough...air filter? Changed it about 1.5 years ago, and haven't thought about it since....should probably figure that one out. Was actually pretty proactive with my brakes, pads were looking pretty thin, so changed them BEFORE they started grinding...still need to do a brake fluid flush...should probably do a fuel filter one of these days...oh and the cabin air filter...isn't that a thing?
Truck Did not crank over the other morning
Coulda been a factor
I need to check mine. Been a bit slow to crank over lately.
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