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Need power adder before next half mile. Which?

Which power adder?

  • NOS!!!!

    Votes: 3 15.0%
  • Centri blower

    Votes: 6 30.0%
  • TVS blower

    Votes: 4 20.0%
  • Twins - very expensive

    Votes: 7 35.0%

  • Total voters
    20

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
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I wouldn't run a spray setup down the 1/2 mile unless it had a nano kit on it... just begging for problems otherwise. That, and you'll need probably 3-4 bottles to make 6-7 passes at the half mile on even a 100 shot.

Yeah I figured that too. My cheapness says spray, but my cheapness also says if you torch it you bought it. So its a lose-lose I guess. Spend the money now or spend it later unwillingly. I know I could have the spray for the 1/2 mile event, but the cheapest blower kit is $5k not installed or tuned, so that may not be until the fall of next year.

I can only launder so much money from my bank account before the wife sees it.
 

01bluesnake

D Mark Performance
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Jul 8, 2009
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I wouldn't run a spray setup down the 1/2 mile unless it had a nano kit on it... just begging for problems otherwise. That, and you'll need probably 3-4 bottles to make 6-7 passes at the half mile on even a 100 shot.

Agreed. The bottle will likely drop a lot of pressure through the runs, and I don't think I would want to spray for that long either. Your looking at a smaller shot on a stock car, and going to see 475-500whp with a 100-125 shot. I understand you want FI also and say money is no issue, but why choose nitrous then for cost if that's the case? A correctly setup nitrous kit with a nano system, heater, and accessories is going to run you easy $1500. Might as well save your money and put it towards a 2200 since you already know 500whp won't keep you happy instead of buying a nitrous setup. If you are on a budget I do have a very nice NX shark nozzle kit with accessories but would still need a window switch for it and a few misc fittings. My vote would go for N/A or a 2200 if keeping cost lower.
 

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
12,447
18
Agreed. The bottle will likely drop a lot of pressure through the runs, and I don't think I would want to spray for that long either. Your looking at a smaller shot on a stock car, and going to see 475-500whp with a 100-125 shot. I understand you want FI also and say money is no issue, but why choose nitrous then for cost if that's the case? A correctly setup nitrous kit with a nano system, heater, and accessories is going to run you easy $1500. Might as well save your money and put it towards a 2200 since you already know 500whp won't keep you happy instead of buying a nitrous setup. If you are on a budget I do have a very nice NX shark nozzle kit with accessories but would still need a window switch for it and a few misc fittings. My vote would go for N/A or a 2200 if keeping cost lower.

No man, money IS an issue lol. I do want to save cash as much as I can. So Yeah the blower kit would be perfect for this, but I wont have it in time for this years event Im pretty sure. But the spray would be much easier to get before summer. If I can swing it, I will get the blower. Atleast the paxton kit comes with a 2200 blower. Thats like a T trim vortech right?
 

blck10th

TCG Elite Member
Jan 11, 2007
17,965
24
Depends on your pocket book really. If the car isn't set up right with the power adder for the 1/2 mile, you will eat a piston at minimum, or crack a sleeve in the block. You will need a tune just for a 1/2 mile run which is 5th-6th gear tuning which is a lot of stress on a motor. I personally would do a stout N/A setup, can get just under 500whp without even cracking the motor open. A N/A CJ mani setup, high quality long tubes, and supporting hardware with E85 will get you close and be very reliable. If you have money to blow, a single turbo or Paxton 2200 will do you good, but will be straining the stock motor pretty hard. Just a FYI, i went 11.0's on the CJ setup with stock headers, stock longblock. LT's would of got me into the 10's on motor.

10's NA is perfect in my book:ford:
 

Pressure Ratio

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Nov 11, 2005
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Glen Ellyn
Im afraid I cant do all the NA stuff again this time. I promised myself that I would just save all the spent money for boost of some kind.

A CJ set up would cost less than the Novi set up. unless you find a killer deal on a used system. But you said yourself that a blower would get traded in with the car because you don't want to put the effort into the car to de-mod it. Where as a intake change takes a half hour and is very easy to do. So when you do get rid of the car you can get a good chunk of change back on your mod parts.

To run the half mile I would say a Boss or CJ intake are a must to have the RPM to finish in 5th gear (1:1 ratio). Unless you plan to change to a 3.31 gear to keep the car out of over drive with the 3.73 you already have. So what makes more sense, spend money on a gear for one event or leave the gear you have get a intake to increase the RPM ceiling as well as add power?

Even with out cams I think the car would be very stout N/A. E85 would help with cylinder temps. As well as be more consistent and reliable for a 1/2 mile event.

I'm getting an AED tune no matter which way I go, and I will be sure to mention to him that I want a special tune for the 1/2mile event. Im sure he knows what to do for that.

Shaun has road race tunes that would work well. Set up for longer abuse and temps in the motor. But it will leave a little power on the table. I think E85 and what ever tune he suggests will work out fine. Missing a few hp is better than hurting something being too aggressive.

10's NA is perfect in my book:ford:

For a DD with a stock motor I agree. I race buddies with blowers on the street. Even from a roll their more powerful car loses because they are spinning their tires where as I don't and am accelerating at a higher rate much sooner. In a half mile event they will pass me with their HP advantage. But I like the power my car makes and it is very reliable. A 650 rwhp the coyote should be safe, but shit happens. With a blower or nitrous more things can potentially go wrong.

I say go CJ intake, 47# injectors, E85, tires and suspension. Then tape seams and get the car through the air as easily as possible. Better tires and suspension will help you get the power to the ground sooner helping use as much as that half mile as possible. Be efficient with the combo and the car should mph very well.
 

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
12,447
18
A CJ set up would cost less than the Novi set up. unless you find a killer deal on a used system. But you said yourself that a blower would get traded in with the car because you don't want to put the effort into the car to de-mod it. Where as a intake change takes a half hour and is very easy to do. So when you do get rid of the car you can get a good chunk of change back on your mod parts.

To run the half mile I would say a Boss or CJ intake are a must to have the RPM to finish in 5th gear (1:1 ratio). Unless you plan to change to a 3.31 gear to keep the car out of over drive with the 3.73 you already have. So what makes more sense, spend money on a gear for one event or leave the gear you have get a intake to increase the RPM ceiling as well as add power?

Even with out cams I think the car would be very stout N/A. E85 would help with cylinder temps. As well as be more consistent and reliable for a 1/2 mile event.



Shaun has road race tunes that would work well. Set up for longer abuse and temps in the motor. But it will leave a little power on the table. I think E85 and what ever tune he suggests will work out fine. Missing a few hp is better than hurting something being too aggressive.



For a DD with a stock motor I agree. I race buddies with blowers on the street. Even from a roll their more powerful car loses because they are spinning their tires where as I don't and am accelerating at a higher rate much sooner. In a half mile event they will pass me with their HP advantage. But I like the power my car makes and it is very reliable. A 650 rwhp the coyote should be safe, but shit happens. With a blower or nitrous more things can potentially go wrong.

I say go CJ intake, 47# injectors, E85, tires and suspension. Then tape seams and get the car through the air as easily as possible. Better tires and suspension will help you get the power to the ground sooner helping use as much as that half mile as possible. Be efficient with the combo and the car should mph very well.

I have 3.55 gears. So that should help. But yeah I thought about getting the CJ or BOSS intake + supporting mods. We will see. I do want something.
 

01bluesnake

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No man, money IS an issue lol. I do want to save cash as much as I can. So Yeah the blower kit would be perfect for this, but I wont have it in time for this years event Im pretty sure. But the spray would be much easier to get before summer. If I can swing it, I will get the blower. Atleast the paxton kit comes with a 2200 blower. Thats like a T trim vortech right?

Ah, from the poll of the TVS and twin kit, I assumed it wasn't that big of an issue. I would do the 2200 kit then, will have a lot higher head room for further use. I believe the t trim is a smaller unit than the 2200.
 

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
12,447
18
I got the CJ intakes for Drew and I direct. But seems White Bear is the cheap place at the moment. Drew can make you a cold air kit for less cash than anyone else too.

Yeah I thought that he was making 4" intakes. Have you guys been working with Shaun on a tune for that setup? Also do you think 500rwhp is possible with the CJ, 4" intake, headers and tune?
 

Pressure Ratio

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Nov 11, 2005
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Glen Ellyn
Drew's cold air tube is 4.5". And he used a good air filter and velocity stack. Very nice set ups. Shaun is who Drew and I used for our tunes. Shaun has them dialed in real well. He worked with Adam @ Rev Auto to dial in the throttle body and driveabiliy, and it is amazing.

I don't think you will see 500 with out cams. Depending on the dyno. The dyno at Dean's Performance seems to read lower than AED's dyno. About 15-20 rwhp different. But yet Drew's car and mine seem to have run better numbers at the track. That is what really counts anyways. Real world performance. I think you will be around 470-480 on the DP dyno. I hope to get mine on the dyno in a week or so to see where my car stands.
 

01bluesnake

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As Pratt said, these cars will be just under the 500whp mark. If you are going to do the setup, get a very good set of headers like ARH or Kooks mids for the best power gains with a SCJ t body. Everything little thing counts when N/A and even 2 Whp here and there add up. You can also do an electric water pump to free up some good power, but a little pricey.
 

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
12,447
18
As Pratt said, these cars will be just under the 500whp mark. If you are going to do the setup, get a very good set of headers like ARH or Kooks mids for the best power gains with a SCJ t body. Everything little thing counts when N/A and even 2 Whp here and there add up. You can also do an electric water pump to free up some good power, but a little pricey.

What do you think the whole NA setup would cost compared to the $4600 paxton kit?
 

01bluesnake

D Mark Performance
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You will be looking at around 1600 for intake, CAI, and t body. If you want e85 figure in 250 for injectors. ARH header setup or Kooks will run you right around 1500. I would do over axle pipes with resonators deletes and a free flowing axle back. I run bassani race mufflers and gt500 over axle pipes which do that perfect and are affordable.
 

Eagle

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Pratt said:
I say go CJ intake, 47# injectors, E85, tires and suspension. Then tape seams and get the car through the air as easily as possible. Better tires and suspension will help you get the power to the ground sooner helping use as much as that half mile as possible. Be efficient with the combo and the car should mph very well.

QFT

You will be looking at around 1600 for intake, CAI, and t body. If you want e85 figure in 250 for injectors. ARH header setup or Kooks will run you right around 1500. I would do over axle pipes with resonators deletes and a free flowing axle back. I run bassani race mufflers and gt500 over axle pipes which do that perfect and are affordable.

Saving this for later :io:
 

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