3D printers...who has one?


Mr_Roboto

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Holy shit that thing sounds like it's from Star Wars or something. How much was the end build? Guessing a few grand?
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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I don't have stealth Chopper or anything enabled yet.
The 4 z steppers are full steps, while everything else is configured for microstepping.
I've made more than a few bone selling stuff off of the Nereus, and yes we have quite a few bones invested in the JAWS6.
but more or less it's the culmination of me completely re-engineering a crappy printer we originally bought... and then I minimized a lot of it so that I could essentially make a kit of parts for people to build their own without using the crappy Hardware I found online.
Similar commercial machines with similar Fire Control Systems and build space can be up to 25 Grand:angrys00ls:

We just suck at fiberglass work so it's easier for us to print our car parts out.
 

Mr_Roboto

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I'd believe the 25K for a commercial equivalent and surprised it's not even higher.

I ended up with a ball of goo for the handle end of the print above then thought about it some and realized I was printing PLA with zero part cooling. :rofl: I guess that'd do it. Maybe I should get a fan on this printer afterall, I thought I was going to be doing ABS almost exclusively. I guess I could change the filament....
 

Mr_Roboto

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almost final product may need to shorten it a hair but it fits and works. On to the other handle now.

IMG_20210418_140316181.jpg
 

Mr_Roboto

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Printing a ball this morning of all things. I want to see how it fits on the lead screws so I can determine if I need to make some adjustments before printing a full handle or even making a full handle. This will be the base for the cross slide and compound handles. I'm going to be curious about what my opinion is on these considering even if I printed at 100% infill I suspect the mass will be very minimal compared to the originals. I'm also curious about the keyway depth which measured a lot lower than I would have thought.

ball_lathe_2.png


I also ran some of the Esun PLA+ through my Tronxy (it worked fine) and I need to address heat creep on my Sovol with the all metal hot end it seems. I'm debating switching back to a non all metal hot end using a piece of Capricorn tubing in it. I think that'd give me ABS capability and I'd be able to do PLA effectively as well. The one I have is a MK6 knock off that's just generic steel. Any of you guys running one of the titanium or bi metal hot ends at all? I'm going to probably end up installing a better cooling fan on my printer as well as seeing if I can get the piece out and putting a smidge of heat sink paste on it to see if I can get better conduction to the heat sink.
 

Mr_Roboto

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Hey, dumb question for you all does anyone know if the Creality 2.2 boards use on/off or PWM for the heat break fan circuit? I'm trying to figure out if I can put a 7812 in series with it to run a 12V fan on my printer. The other option of course being a 7.2 ohm 10W resistor or just biting the bullet and upgrading my fan to 24V.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Most are on/off on the cheaper stuff. In the firmware it will sometimes referred to it as Bang Bang control.

It's usually turned on anytime the thermistor on the hot end registers over 60 degrees Centigrade
 

Mr_Roboto

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Is it plausible to have too much fan? I keep getting "heating failed" messages which is odd. I even recalibrated my PID as well for the heater, I'm thinking it may be the bed though? This fan is way bigger than the one that was on there though. Maybe I'll go to a smaller 40mm fan and see if that helps at all.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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perform a bed heater PID. if it errors out it'll be the bed, likely where the wires connect tot he heater pad. ive got a strain relief on mine after some issues
 

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Alright guys, I think its time to fix my printer and I need help! First off I have an Ender 3 Pro that is mainly stock. A while back I decided to add a bed leveling kit, so I got it from creality. That fried the main board, so then I got the new V4.2.7 board and wired the BL touch sensor correctly. I am pretty sure I got the firmware from Creality as well, but not 100% sure. Anyway, when I try to level the bed it will 0 out X and Y, then it moves the head out to the center and up 10mm then probes for the bed which is nowhere near it of course. Once that happens I cannot lower the head, only raise it. Even if I go up, I cant go back down. I have a feeling this is something in the firmware I need to eidt, but not sure where to start.

Any ideas on where to start? If you need any more information, just let me know. Thanks in advance guys!
 
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Lord Tin Foilhat

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Alright guys, I think its time to fix my printer and I need help! First off I have an Ender 3 Pro that is mainly stock. A while back I decided to add a bed leveling kit, so I got it from creality. That fried the main board, so then I got the new V4.2.7 board and wired the BL touch sensor correctly. I am pretty sure I got the firmware from Creality as well, but not 100% sure. Anyway, when I try to level the bed it will 0 out X and Y, then it moves the head out to the center and up 10mm then probes for the bed which is nowhere near it of course. Once that happens I cannot lower the head, only raise it. Even if I go up, I cant go back down. I have a feeling this is something in the firmware I need to eidt, but not sure where to start.

Any ideas on where to start? If you need any more information, just let me know. Thanks in advance guys!
Did you modify the marlin firmware to account for the prob location?
 

Mr_Roboto

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This video is interesting in that he talks about the Z offset. I think that's where you neee to go with this to start. Otherwise if you have to do custom Marlin FW Configuration.h is the file you need to alter.

I have as of yet to install my BLTouch. Honestly bed leveling hasn't been a huge deal on my Sovol even before spring upgrades. What fried on your main board, was it during FW upgrading or was it the BLTouch was improperly wired?
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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What you're probably looking for is the Z probe offset height, which with the bltouch should be less than 3 mm if the bltouch is positioned above nozzle height by at least 3mm (retracted)
 
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Lord Tin Foilhat

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This video is interesting in that he talks about the Z offset. I think that's where you neee to go with this to start. Otherwise if you have to do custom Marlin FW Configuration.h is the file you need to alter.

I have as of yet to install my BLTouch. Honestly bed leveling hasn't been a huge deal on my Sovol even before spring upgrades. What fried on your main board, was it during FW upgrading or was it the BLTouch was improperly wired?
Personally, learn to do the custom firmware. Once you do it a couple times, its so much easier to make changes to your machine and not have to modify the machine to work with the firmware.
 

Bob Hope

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Fuck, every time this gets bumped I remember I haven’t ordered my new board yet.
 

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Did you modify the marlin firmware to account for the prob location?
I did that at some point, but I think the one thats on there now is just base creality for the new board with BL touch.


This video is interesting in that he talks about the Z offset. I think that's where you neee to go with this to start. Otherwise if you have to do custom Marlin FW Configuration.h is the file you need to alter.

I have as of yet to install my BLTouch. Honestly bed leveling hasn't been a huge deal on my Sovol even before spring upgrades. What fried on your main board, was it during FW upgrading or was it the BLTouch was improperly wired?
I will for sure watch that later.

My bed seems to constantly get out of level. It will be fine for a while then suddenly its way off. Probably need springs or something else. Sucks being a total noob :)

What you're probably looking for is the Z probe offset height, which with the bltouch should be less than 3 mm if the bltouch is positioned above nozzle height by at least 3mm (retracted)
If/when I go though the firmware Ill check it. It seems like that offset is set to 10mm for some reason.

Personally, learn to do the custom firmware. Once you do it a couple times, its so much easier to make changes to your machine and not have to modify the machine to work with the firmware.
I dabbled, but should learn more. I have been spending all my time on the car though.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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When it sets at 10 mm measure the actual nozzle to bed distance and subtract the ten, and that is your nozzle height for the bltouch settings don't set it dead nuts set it for 1 m m above bed and confirm........then remove that last 1mm safely margin.
They put in the 10 mm measurement to make sure people don't crash it right away
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Basically if it's set to 10 mm and your nozzle is 13 mm above the bed currently. Then your probe height offset is 3 mm. It may be set to -3 mm or 3mm dep on firmware.

On my duet it'd be set to -2.9 in this example to get a pice of paper snug under the nozzle at "0"
 
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Lord Tin Foilhat

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I can tell you 100% sure it is a firmware change. I had the same issue my first firmware/bl touch add.
 

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