3D printers...who has one?


Mr_Roboto

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Neither, it's the power. My sovol was giving me a headache so I was using this heap of shit instead :rofl:

I timed it once and it gave a heating error at 5 minutes. I'm thinking that there's probably something in the code. It's just not coming up to temp quickly. If I start dicking with the PID numbers if I increase the Proportional control it should make it more aggressive. From what I remember about the derivative system it could cause under shoot if it's too aggressive so I may reduce that some.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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If you have it do a pid heater learn it will give you the numbers after it.... at which point you have to enter those numbers and make sure you do M500 afterwards to load it permanently into the firmware otherwise those PID parameters will not be there the next time you reboot the machine
 

Mr_Roboto

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I did the learn, it doesn't seem to help. Ever manually hack them?

Also, I owe you guys a pic or two but I took care of the Melzi board there. Desoldered the connector and soldered the wires right on to the pads. I'm sure it's fire code compliant. :rofl:

Any of you guys do a Creality 4.X board? The big thing I'm wondering about is the throughput still shit when using Octoprint or is the Pi->board connectivity faster? They seem to be a decent blend of improved capacity and price and it'd be a drop in for my Sovol. I'd love the Duet but man it's hard for me to spend over half the cost of my printer on a controller board. Oddly if the Melzi in the other printer goes it'd be more likely to get the Duet if I can get this one sorted just because I'd probably need to rewire anyways to stuff anything in.
 
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Lord Tin Foilhat

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I did the learn, it doesn't seem to help. Ever manually hack them?

Also, I owe you guys a pic or two but I took care of the Melzi board there. Desoldered the connector and soldered the wires right on to the pads. I'm sure it's fire code compliant. :rofl:

Any of you guys do a Creality 4.X board? The big thing I'm wondering about is the throughput still shit when using Octoprint or is the Pi->board connectivity faster? They seem to be a decent blend of improved capacity and price and it'd be a drop in for my Sovol. I'd love the Duet but man it's hard for me to spend over half the cost of my printer on a controller board. Oddly if the Melzi in the other printer goes it'd be more likely to get the Duet if I can get this one sorted just because I'd probably need to rewire anyways to stuff anything in.
I'd go SKR mini over creality boards
 

Mr_Roboto

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I'd go SKR mini over creality boards
Is that a drop in? For the Melzi swap I could see it, for the Sovol it's convenient. If I could just get this fucker to work it'd be great, I can't get the fucker to flash the bootloader to it.
 
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Lord Tin Foilhat

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Is that a drop in? For the Melzi swap I could see it, for the Sovol it's convenient. If I could just get this fucker to work it'd be great, I can't get the fucker to flash the bootloader to it.
It was for the ender.
 

Mr_Roboto

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Why is it I cant get my decent printer to stay running but the piece of shit is no problem?

New skr board ordered for the sovol. Lets see if its that. otherwise the psu goes next. I have a beefy boi transformer here and will temporarily swap the switcher out if this fails.
 

Mr_Roboto

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I put the SKR board in yesterday. Not a bad install on the Sovol, the later ones have 2 X axis ports. They must use a different motor on an Ender3 for the Extruder though because I had to flip my wires around so that it ran the correct direction. I also don't have my filament switch nor the under chassis fan hooked up. I guess that's next. Although it definitely needs a calibration it heats up without puking out. Not sure wtf is up with my Creality Board. After I pulled it out I got it to flash a bootloader without any drama either which is also kind of annoying since I'd have probably gone that route. Doesn't really matter though I have a little printer that probably needs a board or I'll swap the Melzi out on my Tronxy instead. I've gotta get Marlin 2.0 to build first though, I'm having some problems with it at the moment.

The motors are insanely quiet compared to the stock board, it's nice. There's a bunch of new features too I need to poke around with as well.

Also something strange is I didn't see any way to set the stepper current on the SKR board.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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On the SKR bored if might be in UART or SPI mode for your drivers.... you will end up setting stepper current via the Marlin firmware via m code settings

For stuff like homing you can do individual overrides that will allow you to run at 30% of stepper current to prevent you from crashing hard. You will also be able to set motor idle percentage per axis, individually if you want
 

Mr_Roboto

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Hell I may end up going that way.

This is fucking driving me crazy. I'm still having warm up issues with the hot end. So far I have:

-A new 30W cartridge
-new temperature sensor
-new board
-stock heat break, block

I am monitoring my PSU via my hooked in Simpson 260 and I'm not seeing any fluctuation of voltage I'd consider significant. I changed the shroud at a point to a 3D printed one, is it possible it's just too fucking efficient and the heater can't maintain temperature? It was temperamental even stock but I'm really wondering if this made it significantly worse. It seems like the biggest problem is just raw warm up time, it eventually gets there but not altogether quickly. One thing I will confess to having not done is take a basic thermometer of some kind and trying to measure the temperature of the hot end as it's warming up to make sure the calibration matches up. That said the cold temperature seems to be spot on and matches with the bed sensor.
 

Mr_Roboto

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Did the tune I can weedle the time down some but I just can't seem to get it quick enough.
 

Mr_Roboto

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It was glued in still when I changed to the SKR board. Now then is it right on the SKR Board? I think so, I mean the temperature goes up in Octoprint and on the display, it just takes it 5+ minutes to get up to full temp which the printer doesn't seem to like. I realize thermal protection is there for a reason but my god it seems to be causing some annoying situations.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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you go to 18 or 16ga on the heater wires?

i bypassed all oem connections for a GM 2 pin ABS connector harness for a quick disconnect of the heater pigtail but no voltage drop at up to 14 amps (metripack 150)your 24v?

did you do the pid learn procedure recently?
 

Mr_Roboto

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new thermistor. Maybe I should shave the wire insulation near the element and tap em with the meter.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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maybe the heater is bad. new recently or new as of the issue cropping up?

ive only had 1 pill fail, out of all the ones ive used but it was a china one, havent had any issues with e3d stuff
 

Mr_Roboto

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I ordered a 40W up, I'm going to try and monitor the voltage at the hot end its self and see what that gets me. Not really sure but we'll find out.
 

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