No clue about newer or older honestly. I bought it retail not online a few days back. If there's a way to tell I can look but I don't know otherwise.
đź’¬ OT 3D printers...who has one?
- Thread starter Lord Tin Foilhat
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No clue about newer or older honestly. I bought it retail not online a few days back. If there's a way to tell I can look but I don't know otherwise.
Bossa is probably what yer looking for you going to reprap firmware 3.01 or higher i recomend the bossa method, its a huge pita to update from 2.03/ etc to the 3.01+
i know the duet2/3 stuff is a little different in area's from the makebase type boards, but their dozuki guide has lots of good info for you folks to read and edjumakate yerselves while on the shitter.
i know the duet2/3 stuff is a little different in area's from the makebase type boards, but their dozuki guide has lots of good info for you folks to read and edjumakate yerselves while on the shitter.
making the kid a large, rainbow filament Pikachu. 30+ hours should be interesting to see how it goes.
Wanting to say I did 25%ish for some reason. The overall print is at something just shy of 200 grams. What's interesting is that bumping the infill up didn't make a shitton of difference in weight, well at least not as much as one would think. It's getting close now, probably after the kid's bed time though so he'll get to go see it tomorrow.
That reminds me, anybody use any rainbow pla that changes colors quick? Most reviews say they’re really spread out so unless it’s some huge print it’s only 1-2 colors (like the esun stuff)
You have the find the ones that are marketed as quick transition, but I agree, most are as you described
yeah probably thermister, dont forget a heater PID learn sequence afterwards.
in regards to the ear melting, when you have a model with towers,l make sure you set a minimum layer time, the head will feed slower to make sure that each layer takes long enough for the plastic to cool properly before the next layer of hot plastic is deposited.
you can set it to feed normal and just z hop pause till the timer is reached and the next layer starts, but ive found that can lead to drips n voids as the new klayer starts, i prefer the slower feed rate method to make a minimum layer time. also uneven parts cooling airflow can play havok with coolaing of tower formations.
search rapid shift, fast shift in the filament names. i loved the slow shift of the Eryone lagoon shift
in regards to the ear melting, when you have a model with towers,l make sure you set a minimum layer time, the head will feed slower to make sure that each layer takes long enough for the plastic to cool properly before the next layer of hot plastic is deposited.
you can set it to feed normal and just z hop pause till the timer is reached and the next layer starts, but ive found that can lead to drips n voids as the new klayer starts, i prefer the slower feed rate method to make a minimum layer time. also uneven parts cooling airflow can play havok with coolaing of tower formations.
search rapid shift, fast shift in the filament names. i loved the slow shift of the Eryone lagoon shift
people over tighten the setscrew style thermister pills all the time, i dont like how some of the cheapo all metal hotends secure their thermisters...shoving it into a blind hole and jamming a bolt down onto the wires to hold it into place doesnt make me happy.
thermisters and heater pills should be trated as though they are consumables just like nozzles
thermisters and heater pills should be trated as though they are consumables just like nozzles
Going to work on my enclosure some this weekend time permitting. I am going to pull the integral spool holder off then add a roller bearing setup for my spool as below with a pass through into the enclosure. I also want to close a bunch of gaps and see what happens. I am at about 31c with out a bulb and 35 with. ABS is something like 50 or 55 optimized build chamber? I may add foam to the outside or something as well.
I have a bunch of upgrades like an enclosure temperature sensor, bed springs, and a bltouch I may add. I bricked my tronxy however so I may get it going before the bltouch goes in since that is fw required. I may also bump my psu voltage as well.
I have a bunch of upgrades like an enclosure temperature sensor, bed springs, and a bltouch I may add. I bricked my tronxy however so I may get it going before the bltouch goes in since that is fw required. I may also bump my psu voltage as well.
That's a big girl. Gonna print some intake manifolds off?
Hey, what are you guys doing for controller boards these days? I think I bricked my TronXY's Melzi board. I know that RAMPS is what you're supposed to get then you're supposed to add some drivers etc. to it. What parts do I need for this magic to happen.
Hey, what are you guys doing for controller boards these days? I think I bricked my TronXY's Melzi board. I know that RAMPS is what you're supposed to get then you're supposed to add some drivers etc. to it. What parts do I need for this magic to happen.
Ramps is old. You want the newer branches of the reprap stuffs.
And yes we are looking at printing intake ducts intake manifolds wheel-well liners you name it out of polycarbonate, ABS and carbon fiber reinforced ABS Plastics. The center console – instrument cluster and the door panels for the 442 will be made with the printers.
I'm even looking at stuff like the intercooler water tanks and using a vacuum process to impregnate them with resins to ensure completely leak free sealing
And yes we are looking at printing intake ducts intake manifolds wheel-well liners you name it out of polycarbonate, ABS and carbon fiber reinforced ABS Plastics. The center console – instrument cluster and the door panels for the 442 will be made with the printers.
I'm even looking at stuff like the intercooler water tanks and using a vacuum process to impregnate them with resins to ensure completely leak free sealing
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