💬 OT 3D printers...who has one?

[Mr_Roboto]

What's the enclosure mod give you

https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/enclosure/

The two big things that this plugin do are allow you to monitor your enclosure temperature and you can use it to activate heaters within the enclosure. I've got a shitton of stuff to add but I'm waiting on more to show up. I'm going to have to rebuild my enclosure soon, I'm planning on a second printer tomorrow if the deal goes through.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

was messing with acetone some more. This time I used opaque Shaxon teal. results are a bit more noticeable but still not totally great. You can still see lines. Then again the texture is smooth, which may be beneficial if you need that.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

ready for charcoal. I dumpsterdived this grill in 08 she has served me well over the years.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

got this for a hundro. some mods are visible and it came with petg so I am betting all metal hot end. Build area is smaller but looks serviceable.

anyone do petg at all?

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

got this for a hundro. some mods are visible and it came with petg so I am betting all metal hot end. Build area is smaller but looks serviceable.

anyone do petg at all?

View attachment 79015

Nice from where?

I do petg occasionally. Print like pla but hotter (235-245), slower (40mm/s) and it is sticker/more stringy then pla, i usually add 0.05 of z lift to give it a little more room to laydown.

Oh and make sure its dry, it sucks up moisture more then pla.

But it is stronger and more UV resistant so you can use it for inside car stuff and it shouldn't warp.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Got it on OfferUp. It seems to be a lower end unit but there's enough parts here to probably make it worth a hundro. It's a remix of a reprap.

Thanks for the PETG hints, I stuck one in my toaster oven at 180. The PETG looks fine, the spool didn't make it though. Guess it had a pretty low melting temperature.

I wish I had some small heat shrink, I'd cut a few feet of wiring out of the harness. I did what I could right now but it's just whatever length cables they had to toss around. The other thing that seems kind of concerning is that the fan on the heat break hasn't kicked on yet far as I can tell. I need to test the fan and be sure it works.

I CADed and printed my first mod part. I hadn't seem anyone make one yet but the Z axis stop was a flat piece of Acrylic that just flopped around. I couldn't see how the bed to nozzle spacing was consistent with that piece of shit. This is way sturdier.







I have read the bed mount flexes on these. I may pull it off at a point and make an aluminum casting.

I also did some wiring cleanup. Much more needed. This is the before.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

3D Printer: 10 x 10 x 10 printable area - electronics - by owner -...

3D Printer with a 10" x 10" x 10" printable area on a heated printing bed. Comes with 3 full spools of PLA filament Black, Red, White. 3D printer has upgraded z-axis rods and an upgraded digital...

chicago.craigslist.org

Looks like a good bass to make something really good

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Holy rats nest

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Holy rats nest

whoops that is before. As I said I did what I could. really need to buy heat shrink and start splicing. The only way this will get neat is elimination of wiring.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

Think it will work without supports?

 

[01bluesnake]

I love my 3D printer. I use a combination of programs for it, from design to print, but I have a Makerbot Z18. I retrofitted in a heated bed, and controller so I can print ABS. Even with the heated chamber, it still wasn't enough.This is what I use for the cold air intakes I do for the mustang, among any other various parts or prototypes. I started off with PLA, which works well, just doesn't hold up to engine bay heat.
This is the tube, but after an acetone treatment.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

That looks really good. I could see myself doing abs and acetone in the future.


so far so good..

 

[01bluesnake]

ABS was tricky, mostly cause not many people printed with it, and Makerbot didnt support it, so got very limited input. ABS printing needs a lot of heat, gotta have a print head that can take the heat. I print at 251c, which works well with the other settings, borderline of killing my print head. I run the chamber temp around 43c and heated bed cycles around 104c. Many of my print failures and jams, turned out to be just nozzle issue. I ended up trying Swiss nozzle, and haven't had a failure or jam since. I kept replacing print heads, every 500-600 hours, and on this one i probably have around 2000.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

ABS was tricky, mostly cause not many people printed with it, and Makerbot didnt support it, so got very limited input. ABS printing needs a lot of heat, gotta have a print head that can take the heat. I print at 251c, which works well with the other settings, borderline of killing my print head. I run the chamber temp around 43c and heated bed cycles around 104c. Many of my print failures and jams, turned out to be just nozzle issue. I ended up trying Swiss nozzle, and haven't had a failure or jam since. I kept replacing print heads, every 500-600 hours, and on this one i probably have around 2000.

That's the only thing holding me back. Still running a PTFE head.

Probably will get a swiss clone one day, or a second printer

 

[01bluesnake]

That's the only thing holding me back. Still running a PTFE head.

Probably will get a swiss clone one day, or a second printer

Technically the head im using is only for PLA, actually the whole machine, but i like pushing my limits lol. Yeah, i would highly recommend one with a heated chamber, i can't imagine trying to ABS without mine. It was hell as is even with one. Getting a Micro Swiss nozzle for whatever head you got, made a huge print difference. I fought a lot of filament separation, or filament jams, solved them both and was under $20.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

I'm through 2 rolls of ABS at this point working on my third. The Hatchbox Copper colored ABS is different but I've used Shaxon Teal and Hatchbox translucent yellow. Here's the info I've gleaned:
-Shit needs to be HOT especially the bed. 105 is a good temp for the bed, the copper seems to like cooler hot end temps but the other two ran well at 235.
-Glass bed works well esp with it being hot. I don't have much in the way of adhesion issues and stuff pops right off.
-ABS goo (acetone+ABS) works really well. At times too well. Fucked my bed up by using it last time, if I were going cooler temps I would consider it a valuable option.
-Slow your print speed down to about 35mm/s and increase your minimum layer times. It needs time to cool.
-All metal hot ends are really nice. I chased down prints being like shredded wheat where they'd just crumble apart until I realized my PTFE had shrank up and collapsed in the end. I'm running an Amazon $15 knockoff and really like it. If you have good (Capricorn) tubing I'd be willing to give it a shot with that. I have some here and I'm thinking about running it on another printer
-My printer is direct drive, I have no baseline for Bowden honestly. Just stating it.

-Acetone vapor smoothing doesn't seem to be a panacea for looks to me by any means. The other layers on the ones I've done get smooth but the layers still show through. The outside gets nice and slick though. Maybe it just neded a bit more time. I stuck a couple paper towels in a jar on my bead at 60C for 30ish minutes to do it after throwing the part in the freezer for a few minutes. I also haven't tried hand wiping or anything of the sort either.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

I'm through 2 rolls of ABS at this point working on my third. The Hatchbox Copper colored ABS is different but I've used Shaxon Teal and Hatchbox translucent yellow. Here's the info I've gleaned:
-Shit needs to be HOT especially the bed. 105 is a good temp for the bed, the copper seems to like cooler hot end temps but the other two ran well at 235.
-Glass bed works well esp with it being hot. I don't have much in the way of adhesion issues and stuff pops right off.
-ABS goo (acetone+ABS) works really well. At times too well. Fucked my bed up by using it last time, if I were going cooler temps I would consider it a valuable option.
-Slow your print speed down to about 35mm/s and increase your minimum layer times. It needs time to cool.
-All metal hot ends are really nice. I chased down prints being like shredded wheat where they'd just crumble apart until I realized my PTFE had shrank up and collapsed in the end. I'm running an Amazon $15 knockoff and really like it. If you have good (Capricorn) tubing I'd be willing to give it a shot with that. I have some here and I'm thinking about running it on another printer
-My printer is direct drive, I have no baseline for Bowden honestly. Just stating it.

-Acetone vapor smoothing doesn't seem to be a panacea for looks to me by any means. The other layers on the ones I've done get smooth but the layers still show through. The outside gets nice and slick though. Maybe it just neded a bit more time. I stuck a couple paper towels in a jar on my bead at 60C for 30ish minutes to do it after throwing the part in the freezer for a few minutes. I also haven't tried hand wiping or anything of the sort either.

Link to $15 hotend?

 

[01bluesnake]

I'm through 2 rolls of ABS at this point working on my third. The Hatchbox Copper colored ABS is different but I've used Shaxon Teal and Hatchbox translucent yellow. Here's the info I've gleaned:
-Shit needs to be HOT especially the bed. 105 is a good temp for the bed, the copper seems to like cooler hot end temps but the other two ran well at 235.
-Glass bed works well esp with it being hot. I don't have much in the way of adhesion issues and stuff pops right off.
-ABS goo (acetone+ABS) works really well. At times too well. Fucked my bed up by using it last time, if I were going cooler temps I would consider it a valuable option.
-Slow your print speed down to about 35mm/s and increase your minimum layer times. It needs time to cool.
-All metal hot ends are really nice. I chased down prints being like shredded wheat where they'd just crumble apart until I realized my PTFE had shrank up and collapsed in the end. I'm running an Amazon $15 knockoff and really like it. If you have good (Capricorn) tubing I'd be willing to give it a shot with that. I have some here and I'm thinking about running it on another printer
-My printer is direct drive, I have no baseline for Bowden honestly. Just stating it.

-Acetone vapor smoothing doesn't seem to be a panacea for looks to me by any means. The other layers on the ones I've done get smooth but the layers still show through. The outside gets nice and slick though. Maybe it just neded a bit more time. I stuck a couple paper towels in a jar on my bead at 60C for 30ish minutes to do it after throwing the part in the freezer for a few minutes. I also haven't tried hand wiping or anything of the sort either.

I've heard of the abs goo mixture, but actually have had great luck with blue painters tape over glass, and the use of a glue stick. I probably have about 20 prints on this current tape, and still working without issue. This is what I did for the heated bed. I ordered a heated bed mat and controller from Amazon, used two pieces of aluminum sheet spaced for the mat. On top of that I have a piece of Pyrex glass secured with some clips. I still have the setup mounted to the factory plate, so leveling and calibration are no different then factory.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078DL1C64/?tag=tcg21-20

I've used a fuck ton of parts that have come with it too over the last year or two especially trying to get the heap of my other printer going. This one doesn't have as much stuff as the last one which even came with a knockoff Volcano block as well.

I've never tried the glue stick or the tape honestly. With the glass bed and adequate temps it seems like the ABS doesn't really give me issues. If I get too low on temp it gets a bit sketch and I end up with goo balls.

 

[01bluesnake]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078DL1C64/?tag=tcg21-20

I've used a fuck ton of parts that have come with it too over the last year or two especially trying to get the heap of my other printer going. This one doesn't have as much stuff as the last one which even came with a knockoff Volcano block as well.

I've never tried the glue stick or the tape honestly. With the glass bed and adequate temps it seems like the ABS doesn't really give me issues. If I get too low on temp it gets a bit sketch and I end up with goo balls.

Yeah, i tried just glass at first, but would break loose after some print time (25hrs total), and found the blue painters tape and glue trick online. Tried it and has work really good, have not lost a print yet from coming free. I had to be careful with getting too high on print bed temps, as anything higher then 105 would start to allow the velocity stack lip to deform under the weight of tube once it got tall enough.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

That looks really good. I could see myself doing abs and acetone in the future.


so far so good..

View attachment 79941

So this made it to the last 10 layers and then fell over.

So close.

 

[01bluesnake]

So this made it to the last 10 layers and then fell over.

So close.

Supports would fix that, but i would suggest making a single support pole about half way up, will be easier to remove/clean when done. I have a few pieces i use supports on, suck to remove and hurts the overall finish

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

Supports would fix that, but i would suggest making a single support pole about half way up, will be easier to remove/clean when done. I have a few pieces i use supports on, suck to remove and hurts the overall finish

Totally, it was more experimenting then expecting it to succeed. I wanted it to complete without supports

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

Maybe ill try 2 of them facing each other and see if they fall into supporting each other lol

 

[01bluesnake]

Yup, been there before haha. It's nice to test, and see where the limit is for a print. Took a long time to get just enough angle on my maf flange that it didn't look obvious, but filament built properly