🔧 BUILD 1971 Nova - Work in Progress

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1971 Nova - Insanity in Progress

I bought this Nova last year when I sold my mustang, I was a active member here when this was CSVT so all the info of my old car is still on this site. Some of you know me from other sites as well as some of the old CSVT members who are still around. I apologize in advance for being a little long winded.

I was looking to get back into a classic muscle car that I could restore and modify to my liking. I choose a Nova since they are cheap and my wife wanted it to be a chevy. I enjoy all makes/models domestic or import which is why I enjoy TCG.

Specs:
1971 2 Door Nova factory v8 auto

Engine
350 block 383 stroker
Cam - unknown (I have several cam cards from the previous owners not sure which one is installed)
Rods/pistons - unknown
Heads - stock
Edelbrock intake - unknown which model
Holley 750 double pumper

Trans
700R4
3200 Stall
Shift Kit - Jegs brand

Rearend
10 bolt 8.5
3:56 gears

I knew the car needed some work before I bought it....I just underestimated how bad some of it was going to be. When I got the car the owner I purchased it from had just primer bombed the car and splatter painted the trunk (was still fresh when I went to look at the car). I would have still bought the car but would have negotiated a better price, but hey live and learn. The guy I bought the car from purchased the car from an elderly couple in Ohio who had a binder of documentation which was a huge selling point to me. Unfortunately I didn't look closely to see that the receipts didn't have much specific information. So the documentation only shows dates and what parts were replaced not what they were replaced with (for the most part anyways.) Again no biggie.

The car had 3 paint jobs in it's life plus the primer the guy I bought the car from put on it. Under the primer was a Suzuki gold that was applied in 2002. (what a FUGLY ass color) under the gold was a red. Whenever the red was put on the car it also had extensive body filler applied but no rust or sheet metal repair, more on that later. Under the red was a factory correct blue. The cowl tag says the car should be Sandalwood, while I did find it on a few parts of the car this leads me to believe someone painted the car early on in it's life or worse someone swapped the vin and cowl tag to another car :dunno: . Also there were a few spots where Green was found, I'm assuming a donor car or junk yard parts replacement. To be honest with all the documentation I have it just confuses things even further. The car was also in a few fender benders, the worst being the passenger front fender.

In 2001 the whole suspension was replaced with stock equipment minus air shocks, this was also when the whole drive line was overhauled and the engine was turned into a 383 stroker. I'm just guessing and based on some info I've accumulated from Steves Nova Site SNS, everyone seems to agree this theoretical combo should be around 350-400hp 400+tq.

I drove the car for a few weeks and fixed some legal and safety equipment such as putting on the rear bumper, side mirrors and attaching the seat belts. The car actually drives pretty good, has some good low end torque and the trans shifts firm. These were all the reasons I purchased the car as I didn't want to blow the budget replacing the mechanical's right away while I concentrated on restoring the body and getting it in paint. I was originally hoping to have it in paint in early spring of this year. Currently it may see paint by spring summer of 2015. (crosses fingers)

Goals:
For now I want a nice cruiser that's got some decent hp/tq. I'd like to drive it around town and take it to a few cruises/car shows. During winter I always like to tinker and do upgrades.

My unrealistic dream goal would be to turn it into a pro-touring car. Sitting low on 18x10 or larger wheels. I would also drop in a LS series engine maybe a LQ4 on a tight budget or go wild with a LS3/6 variation. The car will stay an auto, I know some people won't understand that but I love a good auto as much as banging gears in a stick car.

Short term goals that are more realistic is to just restore the vehicle to good quality, I will keep the drivetrain as it is for now as it's in good shape and if anything blows up take it to the next level at that time (budget pending of course). The body will be fully repaired and painted by myself. It will be painted a blue (unsure of which specific color code at this time) but it will be a medium to dark hue.

Bottom line is all work will be done by me, in my garage with whatever tools I currently have or acquire. Hence the whole reason for purchasing this car.

Now to what's happened since I started work along with pics.

As I purchased it, as you can see the body doesn't look bad at all. Looking at it very throughly I could tell there was bondo/mud applied and I did notice some rust in the rear quarters and in the trunk area (which is common for these cars) I also noticed the body bushings were bad again another common problem with age.



IMG_1489 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1490 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


Engine Bay, looks can be decieving, the whole front accessory system is a redneck engineer mess along with the fan and rad shroud.
IMG_1487 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1503 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


IMG_1504 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

Pics of the interior, the seats are trashed and the carpet doesn't fit right as it's either a universal or not the correct for this make/model/year.
IMG_1499 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr





I'll break this up into a few posts.
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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Great project and great resto work, I do not envy the rust work :)

That plasma cutter must be awesome, is it a 110v or 220? I need to cut out my shocktowers and that would come in handy ;)

Look forward to your progress.

Chris


Thanks, I enjoy your builds and only hope mine finishes up close to your last one.

Yes this cutter is 110 but it will cut up to 1/8th steel which is thicker than any of the rust on this shitbox :rofl: plasma cutters are a must have on projects like this. Takes too damn long using a cutoff wheel.

Your welcome to borrow it, I won't be using it for a month or two.
 

quikturbo

Regular
Dec 24, 2004
398
695
Thanks, I enjoy your builds and only hope mine finishes up close to your last one.

Yes this cutter is 110 but it will cut up to 1/8th steel which is thicker than any of the rust on this shitbox :rofl: plasma cutters are a must have on projects like this. Takes too damn long using a cutoff wheel.

Your welcome to borrow it, I won't be using it for a month or two.

Thanks much, I can truly appreciate that metal work you're doing, it's so not glamorous but in the end it will be so worth it.

Agreed on the cutoff and the dust those damn things make! I LOVE to borrow it for a day! I'll happily pay you something. Shoot me a pm with your mobile and we can connect over the next couple weeks. Thanks very much for offering.
Let me know if I can help out any other way too.

Chris
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
This is from last week as I didn't get time in the garage this past weekend.

Trunk pan 90% welded in. I have the section by the tail panel to finish welding and a crap load of grinding. There were a few spots the original metal was so thin I kept blowing through it so some spots there is a lot of excess weld.

I also ran into my first issue with the Eastwood Mig welder. There is a common issue with the solenoid, after releasing the trigger the gas stays on until you shut the welder off. This seriously hampered me and caused me to rush a few spots so needless to say my welding on this was less than subpar. Luckily the welder is under warranty and I had no issues getting replacement solenoid it arrived this morning so hopefully I can get back to it this weekend.

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Once I have the pan fully welded and my excess slag cleaned up I will throw the rearend back in and out the funk lid on. Then I will brace the trunk opening and cut out the tail panel and rear windshield cowl.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Didn't feel like fixing the solenoid for the gas in the Mig welder and I wanted the tail light panel out. It will be easier to finish welding up the trunk pan by the tail light panel with the panel out.

So I just started cutting the tail panel out, I first braced the trunk opening (which afterwards I realized I put it in the wrong spot...more on that later).

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Then used a torch to melt out the lead at the seam.

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I was wearing those new Duluth fire hose pants and some of the hot lead spilled on the pants. HOLY SHIT DO THEY TRANSFER HEAT!!! I must of looked pretty crazy dropping trow in the garage, immediately it blistered. Ok back on topic.

It's a good thing I didn't lend out the plasma cutter just yet as I used it to slice out the panel to make it easier getting at the last few spot welds. The main part of the panel was out in less than a minute.

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Just like the wheel tubs they just slathered bondo instead of replacing the rotted metal. I didn't even bother cutting spot welds on the lip I was able to used the body blade to just bang out all the rotted metal. The factory spot welds were the strongest metal left, I just hit those with a flap wheel

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I did have to cut out the braces as the new panel only fits from the inside. These weren't rotted just surface rust. I didn't take out the caliper but I'm sure these are made out of 22 gauge steel as they aren't very strong. No idea why they used this thin of steel as structure.

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Was able to do dry fitment of the new panel but stopped for the day here. There is going to be quite a few hours of massing the fenders and the panel for proper fitment.

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Now back to my fuck up, I need to put the trunk lid on to make sure I have the panel in the correct location. With my brace where it is that isn't going to work. Next time I will weld in a brace for the rear window opening and then move this brace under the lip opening. Before I weld this in I will cut out the rear window cowl and replace that first. Then finish welding and grinding the trunk pan and the tail light panel will be last.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Have I told you I hate spot welds??? Mothafuck!!!

Now that is out of the way onto the progress. I spent most of the day cutting out the rear window cowl. I was going to brace this section but after looking at the package tray, the bracing was not needed. I cut the cowl right down the center and spent most of the day cutting out those super annoying spot welds.

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The body blade shown in the above pic was probably the best spent money for any tool used on this rusty piece of shit. As it does make breaking spot welds a fuck ton easier. In fact I didn't even cut any spot welds on the interior side of the cowl I just used the body blade to bust right through them.

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Test fitting the new cowl

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Still a little work to do but going to leave that for now. Going to stop at the Eastwood store in Alsip this week and grab some clecko's and supplies for the lead joints. Then I will dry fit the cowl and tail light panel, install the trunk lid and make sure the gaps are where they are supposed to be and then burn it all in.

I never show pics of what I do for rust once I cut panels out. I use Eastwood's fast etch, as well as Eastwood rust converter (converter not shown here). Prior to welding I also hit everything with weld-thru primer. Then later I will top coat it.

Fast etch shown here. This is about 20 mins after spraying it on.

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I spent the rest of the day grinding my welds on the trunk pan. I really boogered that in and I am only halfway grinding down those welds. No pics of any of this but the underside is done. I will spray it to keep it from flash rusting and top coat it with chassis black later.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
QFT!
I bought an awesome spot weld drill bit kit, if you need to borrow. I can bring it by when I grab the cutter.

Thanks but no need, I have half a dozen spot weld cutters. In truth the cheapo cutters seem to work the best. I spent some decent coin on some good spot weld cutters but with the amount of spot welds they dull over time even with using lubrication. Now I just buy a few of the $5 cutters which work for about 2-3 dozen cuts and toss em.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
So I only had a few hours in the garage yesterday so in short I didn't get shit done.



I began by prepping the cowl section getting it ready to burn in. As mentioned previously I need to put the trunk lid on so I can make sure all the gaps are where they need to be before burning the cowl and tail light panel in.



So I spent the rest of the short time I had building the tool necessary for hooking up the trunk hinge torsion bars. These things just plain suck and I am contemplating just fabbing up a gas struts for the hinges. I'm not ready to give up just yet but that will be my fall back plan.



So over on SNS someone posted the specs for building the tool that puts these torsion rods back in place without getting impaled or your hand snapped in half (yes these torsion rods hold a lot of energy).



Pic from the guy who created the diagram.

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My first attempt at TIG welding... ya it's not the greatest but got to learn by practicing.

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After the first attempt at TIG welding I was running out of time so I just broke out the MIG and finished it up in a few seconds.

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Now the plate was welded on I used a carbite bit instead of the drill holes the instructions gave me and created my notches.

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The tool worked pretty good and I was able to get the rods in and out a few times. This is where I hit a dead end, I took before pictures before disassembly but I missed how the rods hook up to the hinges. I thought I had it figured out just by looking at it but there is a spot halfway through the hinges arc that stops and you have to apply double the force to get it moving again. If I put the trunk lid on like that I would end up damaging it so I took the rods back out until I can find the proper way these rods are installed. I do have a GM assembly book but no picture references.



Hopefully I'll have this figured out the next time I have garage time.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Actual progress today!

Someone from SNS was nice enough to send me photos of how the torsion rods hook up to the hinges properly so after muscling them in I threw the trunk lid on. I used the clecko's and secured the tail light panel and the cowl so I could cut the brace I welded in.

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I also hammer/dollied the weatherstripping lip back in shape.

Before

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After

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The rear fenders are all sorts of out of whack, I spent a good amount of time grinding down all the paint and mud in the jambs and the trunk lid so I could see true metal to metal gaps. The verdict is no bueno, I have to move both rear quarters out a 1/2inch as seen in the next pics.


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So next time out I will work on getting those gaps and where the trunk lid meets the tail light panel lined up better and burn it all in.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Only a few hours in the garage this weekend. Cowl panel is burned 60% burned in, need to take the trunk lid off to get at the weatherstripping edge. Will get to that after the tail light panel is burned in.

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So before the cowl was burned in I spent most of the time I had wrestling with the tail light panel. I finally got it to where it needs to be, it took a lot of persuading the rear quarters especially the passenger side. Had to make a few relief cuts and enough hammer dollying to make my hands numb.

I had clecko's holding the panel in before, after getting the quarters where they need to be my pilot holes no longer lined up.

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I am still grinding all the booger welds I did on the trunk pan, once that's done I will put the tail panel in a final time and dry fit the center support, then it's time to melt some metal.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Last weekend I spent the little time I had grinding down the welds in the trunk pan. I also stripped the layers of shit on the wing panels in the trunk. Found a few small holes that I will just patch at a later time.

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Next up final fitment of the tail light panel and welding it in. Just pics of it finished

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Straitened and welded the side braces in.

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Lastly I threw the rearend back in.

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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
So the drivers quarter had some bad warpage when I welded it in. I also made matters worse by incorrectly hammer/dollying it. I got so frustrated I slapped some all metal filler on it to cover it up so I would stop looking at it.

So after a few months of working on other stuff it was still bothering me. I dug out the filler and began using the stud welder, some heat and more hammer/dolly action. It's not 100% yet but I'm still working on it. If I were to slap more mud on it there really wouldn't be more than 1/8 in some spots. Regardless I am going to keep it at till I feel better about it.


A before pic from a few months ago.

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Where I am at today

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This is tedious work and very time consuming. So lesson to anyone welding sheet metal is watch the heat. If I had taken my time originally I would have had a better outcome and dozens of hours to work in something else.


In other more exciting news, I am gradually collecting more and more metal working tools. My wife found this while looking at xmas present ideas. A hobby version is normally around $300 and only comes with 1-2 radius wheels but she found this one for $130 with 9 wheels so I couldn't pass it up to try and learn for less than 1/2 the price.

I have a few spots where this will come in handy, hopefully I can get to use it in Jan.


Radius wheels not shown
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