🔧 BUILD 1971 Nova - Work in Progress

General Information

1971 Nova - Insanity in Progress

I bought this Nova last year when I sold my mustang, I was a active member here when this was CSVT so all the info of my old car is still on this site. Some of you know me from other sites as well as some of the old CSVT members who are still around. I apologize in advance for being a little long winded.

I was looking to get back into a classic muscle car that I could restore and modify to my liking. I choose a Nova since they are cheap and my wife wanted it to be a chevy. I enjoy all makes/models domestic or import which is why I enjoy TCG.

Specs:
1971 2 Door Nova factory v8 auto

Engine
350 block 383 stroker
Cam - unknown (I have several cam cards from the previous owners not sure which one is installed)
Rods/pistons - unknown
Heads - stock
Edelbrock intake - unknown which model
Holley 750 double pumper

Trans
700R4
3200 Stall
Shift Kit - Jegs brand

Rearend
10 bolt 8.5
3:56 gears

I knew the car needed some work before I bought it....I just underestimated how bad some of it was going to be. When I got the car the owner I purchased it from had just primer bombed the car and splatter painted the trunk (was still fresh when I went to look at the car). I would have still bought the car but would have negotiated a better price, but hey live and learn. The guy I bought the car from purchased the car from an elderly couple in Ohio who had a binder of documentation which was a huge selling point to me. Unfortunately I didn't look closely to see that the receipts didn't have much specific information. So the documentation only shows dates and what parts were replaced not what they were replaced with (for the most part anyways.) Again no biggie.

The car had 3 paint jobs in it's life plus the primer the guy I bought the car from put on it. Under the primer was a Suzuki gold that was applied in 2002. (what a FUGLY ass color) under the gold was a red. Whenever the red was put on the car it also had extensive body filler applied but no rust or sheet metal repair, more on that later. Under the red was a factory correct blue. The cowl tag says the car should be Sandalwood, while I did find it on a few parts of the car this leads me to believe someone painted the car early on in it's life or worse someone swapped the vin and cowl tag to another car :dunno: . Also there were a few spots where Green was found, I'm assuming a donor car or junk yard parts replacement. To be honest with all the documentation I have it just confuses things even further. The car was also in a few fender benders, the worst being the passenger front fender.

In 2001 the whole suspension was replaced with stock equipment minus air shocks, this was also when the whole drive line was overhauled and the engine was turned into a 383 stroker. I'm just guessing and based on some info I've accumulated from Steves Nova Site SNS, everyone seems to agree this theoretical combo should be around 350-400hp 400+tq.

I drove the car for a few weeks and fixed some legal and safety equipment such as putting on the rear bumper, side mirrors and attaching the seat belts. The car actually drives pretty good, has some good low end torque and the trans shifts firm. These were all the reasons I purchased the car as I didn't want to blow the budget replacing the mechanical's right away while I concentrated on restoring the body and getting it in paint. I was originally hoping to have it in paint in early spring of this year. Currently it may see paint by spring summer of 2015. (crosses fingers)

Goals:
For now I want a nice cruiser that's got some decent hp/tq. I'd like to drive it around town and take it to a few cruises/car shows. During winter I always like to tinker and do upgrades.

My unrealistic dream goal would be to turn it into a pro-touring car. Sitting low on 18x10 or larger wheels. I would also drop in a LS series engine maybe a LQ4 on a tight budget or go wild with a LS3/6 variation. The car will stay an auto, I know some people won't understand that but I love a good auto as much as banging gears in a stick car.

Short term goals that are more realistic is to just restore the vehicle to good quality, I will keep the drivetrain as it is for now as it's in good shape and if anything blows up take it to the next level at that time (budget pending of course). The body will be fully repaired and painted by myself. It will be painted a blue (unsure of which specific color code at this time) but it will be a medium to dark hue.

Bottom line is all work will be done by me, in my garage with whatever tools I currently have or acquire. Hence the whole reason for purchasing this car.

Now to what's happened since I started work along with pics.

As I purchased it, as you can see the body doesn't look bad at all. Looking at it very throughly I could tell there was bondo/mud applied and I did notice some rust in the rear quarters and in the trunk area (which is common for these cars) I also noticed the body bushings were bad again another common problem with age.



IMG_1489 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1490 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


Engine Bay, looks can be decieving, the whole front accessory system is a redneck engineer mess along with the fan and rad shroud.
IMG_1487 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1503 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


IMG_1504 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

Pics of the interior, the seats are trashed and the carpet doesn't fit right as it's either a universal or not the correct for this make/model/year.
IMG_1499 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr





I'll break this up into a few posts.
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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Time is limited lately but I am determined to get a few hours a week in at minimum.

So in order to get the quarters ready I needed to start on the inner and outer wheel tubs. The DSE deep tubs have a installation video which makes it look easy. Pffft ya right!

So just stating this right away... I hate spot welds and 40+ year old undercoating!!!

First thing was getting the car up in the air (so badly want a lift) and pulling the trunk lid. The hinges are attached to the wheel tubs so those need to be cut off. But first I had to pull the torsion rods that give the hinges their spring. Getting them off is a bear I can only imagine putting them back on!

I am working on the passenger side first as it's the worst of the two sides. After I cut the hinge support from the tub I scribed the cut line that I will need later to put in the wider tub.

Then I moved to cutting out the never ending spot welds inside the fenderwell. I only got so far today. Next time out I should be able to finish cutting spot welds and be able to pull the tub out and start mock up.

Pics

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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Little more work today, again not as much as I wanted to accomplish but progress is progress.

I started with the next dozen + spot welds that allowed me to get the inner tub out.

I knew that you needed to relocate the shock mounts and the leaf springs if you run a wider tire with the DSE deep tubs but I didn't know the upper shock mount needed to move just for the new tub itself.

In order to use the offset leaf spring shackles a narrowed gas tank is needed. I'm no baller and can't afford the $1300 narrowed gas tank. So I guess I will be doing a fuel cell in the trunk, I just didn't want to go that route.

I'm placing the order for the new shackles and shock mount relation so that will be added to the todo list, the fuel cell can wait till I need to get the car on the road.

I stopped for the day when I ran out of cutting wheels and used my last el cheapo spot weld cutter. I needed to hit the Eastwood store in Alsip this week for a few items anyways.

A few pics first one is inside the fenderwell looking towards the rear of the car. You can see the trunk drop off pan I will be replacing in conjunction with the tubs and trunk pan.

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The DSE Tubs are 2 or 3 inches wider so if you look at where the old tub was cut out the upper shock mount is right there. When the new tub goes in it will be flush with the rear frame. ( With a section of the frame notched as well ). So the shock mount needs to come out now.
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A shot from inside the car, there's another dozen or so spot welds I have to get at in here before the outer tub comes out. I am leaving it in for now as a reference for mockup.
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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Well bike is in the shop getting service and the weather is shitty so figured I would do some work on the rustbucket.

I finished cutting out the inner and outer wheel tubs still have some trimming and grinding to do on the inner braces, also got the trunk drop off panel cut out.

I also put the fender back on and got it aligned as best I could and then cut both the new and old fender together to get a nice 1/8 cut line. Once the tubs are back in I will weld in the fender and close it all up.

Got the 2 inch scribe line marked for the cut in the floor to fit the new tubs but called it a day there. I wanted to go through the video and forums again before I make these cuts.

The rockers were replaced by someone when the car was painted red. Whoever did it performed a horseshit job...The gap between the rocker and the rear fender and bottom of the door jamb has at least a 1/2 inch gap so I may be pulling the rockers later on to get them better aligned.

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Mr_Roboto

Doing the jobs nobody wants to
TCG Premium
Feb 4, 2012
25,913
31,092
Nashotah, Wisconsin (AKA not Illinois)
Not sure if you saw it in previous posts but that's exactly what's being done, Detroit Speed Deep Tubs which will allow up to a 12.5 inch tire.

Pardon my literacy totally missed it. Keep going, I wish I had that kind of body work skills. Maybe I'll give it a shot one day doubt it will come out as nice though.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Finished cutting out the frame section including some additional trimming. Cleaned up the area so it's ready to weld in the new sheet metal.

Either tomorrow or Sunday I need to rewire one of my 220 outlets for the new welder. Then it's time to burn in all the sheet metal.

Some pics

You see the section of the frame cut out here, I have 1/8th" plate that will box this back out.
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This section has the 3/4" flange
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Just a dry fit of the deep tub
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Same dry fit as above just from inside the trunk.
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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
I was cutting out the last filler plate when my compressor pump decided to seize up so now everything will be on hold until I can get a replacement.

I decided to put the trunk drop off pan in, I used this little gem to make some spot weld holes then stitch welded the top to keep debree out of the trunk.

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Here is one of the filler plates mocked up, it's tacked in now. I used Eastwood's rust converter inside the channel to keep rust from coming back.

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