Snapped a half shaft, sucks - Anyone hook it up with a tow?

rdsnake

formerly RD SNAKE
Mar 5, 2006
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I think I may have found the issue...

20170601_190414_zpsbihthnwq.jpg


Shouldn't one side of the axle somehow be fastened/connected to the other?

I've never had grease on the underside of the car breaking a half shaft. I can see how it could happen, but it's unlikely unless a CV actually exploded.

That's how....
 

rdsnake

formerly RD SNAKE
Mar 5, 2006
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What year mustang is this again? What transmission do you have?

I've had this happen twice, on 2 different 2003 cobras after snapping a half shaft. It creates a nasty vibration on acceleration and decel. What happens is after the half shaft snaps, the torque is then transferred back up the drive line and bends the input shaft of the transmission. Both were T56 transmission with a 26 spline input shaft.

Took me about a week to diagnosis it on the first cobra.
 

blakbearddelite

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What year mustang is this again? What transmission do you have?

I've had this happen twice, on 2 different 2003 cobras after snapping a half shaft. It creates a nasty vibration on acceleration and decel. What happens is after the half shaft snaps, the torque is then transferred back up the drive line and bends the input shaft of the transmission. Both were T56 transmission with a 26 spline input shaft.

Took me about a week to diagnosis it on the first cobra.

This is on a 2015, so the transmission is the MT82.
 

Dasfinc

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Ford screwed me over on the convertible with the leaky top. They charged me $400 to put some kind of epoxy around the window. It started leaking 32 days later and they told me the warranty was only 30 days. I was fuming. I fixed it for $5 after that. So yes, I wouldn't feel too bad about it remembering that experience.

My current convertible had 2 failed roof leak repairs. Mr. Kevin Traver helped me spot where it was actually leaking from when he came out and detailed my car... 5 cent nut was missing off my spoiler......
 

blakbearddelite

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Ran out of time tonight, wasn't able to touch suspension components. But I did find I was able to get the axles fully seated as the stockers. Took if for a quick ride, still has a shimmy. Not as severe, but still noticeable. Feels like rear end suspension is fighting each other with every bump or hard steer.
 

blakbearddelite

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The knuckle is attached to the upper and lower control arm as well as the verticle link. So even is the axle wasn't there, the knuckle would still be working in it's designed arch as the suspension compressed and extended.

Jack the car up, loosen the hardware slightly, put the car at ride height and re-torque everything. Make sure to inspect everything to make sure it is all as it should be. Including the way the spring is in the spring perch. Test drive it carefully, re-torque everything again. Pump the tires up so that you have one less limiting factor.

Doing the torques at ride height makes sure the bushings are clocked correctly and not binding. So the suspension isn't fighting itself. Plus double checking everything is a good idea after an install.

As far as the spring in the perch, what would make it look out of whack? I don't know if I'd be able to tell if the spring was not seated right. Is it obvious?
 

Pressure Ratio

....
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The lower control arm kind of have the shape of the spring to it. Ther "pigtail" of the spring sits on the control arm so it sits correctly on it. There is a window where you can verify the spring isolator and spring are in the correct location.


*Edit* Bill @ CJ Pony parts has some very well done install videos. This one shows the spring install. Go 10 minutes in and you will see exactly what I was talking about.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-EcQd93i4g
 

blakbearddelite

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CJ Pony Parts is the video I watched numerous times when doing the axle. The only area which troubled me was getting the axle seated far into the spindle. He made it look like it just slide right in. And he didn't even remove the knuckle like I did. Anyway, after looking at the torque specs from Ford for some of the LCA/links/etc, I know mine are loose. I swear the torque specs I got from somewhere else didn't list them specifically and/or that high.

For example, the lower arm to vertical link calls for 129 ft/lbs, I know I didn't tighten it nearly that much. We did tighten under load, but I think I was a bit light on some of the torque specs.
 

blakbearddelite

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Yeah, it's hard to explain. I was going to cruise over to Jim's house tonight and let him try. I would think that it should be very difficult to jiggle the wheel with all the suspension things bolted to it. I just don't know at this point.

I'd be curious if any other S550 brethren are able to move their rear wheels when they're off the ground with the suspension unloaded.
 

Dasfinc

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I apologize if its already been mentioned; but is it possible you Chooched a wheel bearing? the spindle/knuckle assembly I'd imagine houses a bearing and the receiving splines. I'm curious if you managed to damage that part of the car when the CV snapped. It could explain why it was so hard to seat the new axle, and would explain some play/vibration.

Edit*

I find it interesting that American Muscle is sold out of them; and that they sell a Ford OEM part on their site:

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-...r=2016&T5_Var3=blue&GID=384666&T5_Var4=384666

Makes me think that may not be an uncommon problem.
 

Dasfinc

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I guess anything is possible at this point. Only the driver side axle broke, but I guess it could be possible the wheel bearings could break even if the axle did not. Not even sure how I'd test that.

at $80 a piece for an OEM part, and given that you are boosted, I don't think it would exactly be throwing away money. I'm seeing people just from Googling replacing them as early as 30,000 miles.

Without having my hands physically on the wheel/hub its hard to say, but it's definitely a piece that would have seen some abuse despite low miles.
 

blakbearddelite

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Yup. I just wasn't sure if the slight play was normal. That blows. I don't know if Ford will cover it. They may say I screwed it up with the sticky tires and aftermarket axle. But it sounds like the parts are relatively inexpensive. And maybe that will cure my wobbly woes.
 

blakbearddelite

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What in the fuck! Ford must have a shortage because they won't ship until next week. I was going to drop my car off for the blower install on Saturday. Well, I guess I can still drop it off, but they can't dyno the car until the new bearings are on.

I'm having the shittiest luck getting the blower on this car.
 

TCG Member 5219

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Mar 22, 2005
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I was going to ask how a wheel bearing goes bad with that few miles, but I guess the video is of a 2016 so there might be a known problem, plus the fact that they're short on wheel bearings.

It was the wheel hopping that broke the shafts and probably did the same to the wheel bearings. Or when the car was sitting on the bearings with the shafts already broken, thats what did them in when the car was moved.
 
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