The GTP is running right...

GraFFix

A 302 and a little boost
Jan 3, 2008
501
0
NW Chicago
Man i hope you guys get it figured out..id be going nuts by now. Id like to add a few things...

I left the rails on the car with the injectors on it. The injectors were fairly new not many miles on them but they were used when I got them. if i remember correctly I gave you some extra injectors in a box? Maybe if one is faulty on the rail you can just swap it with one of the extras i gave you? I also replaced the FPR about a year ago with a brand new one. its possible that its bad but unlikely.
 

Alacran

GM fanatic
Jan 18, 2009
1,152
23
Chicago
UPDATE 4/2 I have the trickle charger hooked up to the battery, when i have it flipped to the 2 amp rate, the battery says 100% charge (thats what it said as soon as I hooked up the battery). When I flip it to 6 amp charge, it reads 50% (3 hours later). Is the battery okay? is there something wrong under the hood?

Get the battery tested at an auto part store. If its good then the starter needs to be tested or replaced because it will not rotate with a fully charged battery. Be sure to ask about the CCA the battery actually has (800 CCA on the sticker).

I left the rails on the car with the injectors on it. The injectors were fairly new not many miles on them but they were used when I got them. if i remember correctly I gave you some extra injectors in a box? Maybe if one is faulty on the rail you can just swap it with one of the extras i gave you? I also replaced the FPR about a year ago with a brand new one. its possible that its bad but unlikely.

Good info but we need to make sure there is no coolant in the cylinder first.
 

Alacran

GM fanatic
Jan 18, 2009
1,152
23
Chicago
UPDATE 4/2 I have the trickle charger hooked up to the battery, when i have it flipped to the 2 amp rate, the battery says 100% charge (thats what it said as soon as I hooked up the battery). When I flip it to 6 amp charge, it reads 50% (3 hours later). Is the battery okay? is there something wrong under the hood?
Im going to work on that belt maybe tomorrow. After work ill try and see what I can get done and maybe make a video of what the engine is doing since Im headed out for the movie tomorrow.

How do you test the starter?
The store has a tester for each, battery, alternator, and starter. The starter just free spins on the tester its a simple test actually. They connect power and ground and and hit the switch IIRC. Its so easy you can test at home on a bettery charger/jumper.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
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Jun 16, 2007
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bench testers do not test it under load...so even a starter with no Tq can test good
best test fer ya is to crank it over with the plugs out, then put in two plugs in opposite (180*) firing points (aka 1n4 or 2n5 etc see how fast it cranks and see how it loads up as it has to compress the air in the cylinders with the plugs in. as you put in the rest of the plugs if it cranks slower and slower and draws more and more juice it's fucked
a good starter will crank the motor over at 250-350rpm all day long with the plugs in while drawing less than 200amps (avg of 150-180) at peak load
 

Alacran

GM fanatic
Jan 18, 2009
1,152
23
Chicago
IMO the battery is good but we should make sure since the car has not been running for a while. Even when the starter would not roll over the lights would work fine. My guess is that the battery will test fine and you will need a starter. Unless the engine locked up.

Here...the battery terminals were left loose the starter clicked fast and then i tighten them to get more juice out of the battery and then the starter went clunk.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
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Jun 16, 2007
32,649
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IMO the battery is good but we should make sure since the car has not been running for a while. Even when the starter would not roll over the lights would work fine. My guess is that the battery will test fine and you will need a starter. Unless the engine locked up.

Here...the battery terminals were left loose the starter clicked fast and then i tighten them to get more juice out of the battery and then the starter went clunk.
so ya talking about the car? or your past experience?
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Jun 16, 2007
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That was for my car, he stopped by the other day to take a look at things

his car...i inspected his car and this is what it did while i was there.

It never cranked for me.

take the terminals off and sand em down...if it's been arc'n the surface isnt clean and if the pittings bad enough youll loose some contact area and the voltage drop under high current draws will be excessive.

so even after tightening it down it just chunks (aka bendix solenoid pulling in fine) but it doesnt turn the motor over?
if so the main power contacts inside the solenoid are probably screwed and it's not getting juice...take a ~3/4" wrench ya dont really care about and use the open end to bridge the main power lug to the motor power lead directly opposite it after (while) someone holds the ign switch in the crank position (your basically bypassing the high current contacts inside the solenoid)

good luck
 

Alacran

GM fanatic
Jan 18, 2009
1,152
23
Chicago
right tightening the terminals made it worse and the contacts look decent. I will jump it if i have the wrench but i would rather test the battery and then go after the starter if the battery is fine.

That way i can check all of the wiring connections w/o getting electrocuted or hurt something.

We will figure it out.
 

99PONTIACGP

TCG Elite Member
Oct 3, 2008
27,665
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Chicago
Real Name
Mike
I'd make sure that battery is 100% super for sure good. Get it tested or just swap with a known working battery. Triple check the new starter connections, maybe check any fuses.

After that it should at least crank, unless theres a fucked up sensor or switch somewhere. (neutral safety switch?)

My brother checked all the fuses already and the starter is doing the same thing as the "bad" one did. Just a "click" and nothing. even if the battery wasnt a 100%, shouldnt it work with a jump?

:dunno:
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
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Jun 16, 2007
32,649
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hangover park IL
the click is a seperate circuite so the purple wire is getting energized and the solenoid is drawing in and pushing the bendix out...chances are the block ground is fine since the solenoid works... has the car at any point had the infamous leaky side terminals that would corrode the main power cables on the inside? (usually the battery tray is also rusty)

at this point bypass the main power and ground feeds.... fully charge the battery and take a pair of jumper cables and run the ground from the battery to the starter body and try to start/crank it over...if no change take the ground stuff off and just hook up the power from the battery to the starter main power lug and retry again if the OE power cable is faulty the jumpercable will spark or give the motor the current it needs to crank the engine over.
if your worried about shorting things out removing the front manifold is pretty easy and allows full easy access for the testing...with alot less chance for accidently shorting anything
 

99PONTIACGP

TCG Elite Member
Oct 3, 2008
27,665
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Chicago
Real Name
Mike
you guys want to meet later this week, weekend, or what?

Im going to throw the battery from my bronze car into the green car since I definitely know that battery works and ill see what happenes so I can rule out that problem. Its still doing the same thing were the motor not spinning and ill try to take a video as well. But, if you want to stop by when the weather is better, any day is good this week for me after 4.
 

Alacran

GM fanatic
Jan 18, 2009
1,152
23
Chicago
Alright...we got it started today with my jump pack. We need a new bolt for the positive battery terminal (It will not tighten anymore. After that check and maybe replace the battery.

Also, i notice the injectors are not sitting right in the head. One is swollen too much. We need 6 injector o-rings to fix that.

Coolant system held 20 psi the whole time. Overall, we are getting there...slowly...and i did not get electrocuted.
 
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