🔧 BUILD Queen: 4T80e Turbo 2001 Park Avenue

General Information

So this car has a ridiculous amount of work already put into it. Overtime I'll try to highlight some of the big points with the transmission swap and some of the other really cool details, but for now I'm going to briefly explain what the car looks like when I bought it and what's going on right now with the build.

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I bought the car earlier this summer in very poor condition. All the high $$$ parts were already on the car, I've put less than $500 into it as of now. Bought the car for a great price, even if I had known everything wrong with it I still would have paid that much in a heartbeat.

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The 4T80e conversion was incomplete (car wouldn't shift into 3rd gear), everything was leaking except the rear suspension air bags, lots of misfires, horrible squealing from the engine due to improper belt routing, and other things I'm probably not thinking of.

Here's what the car came with:

Engine:
-VS Cam with new GM timing chain
-Cobb Racing one-off turbo kit
-Camaro intake for beautiful routing of the charge pipe through the air/air intercooler
-(Unsure of what turbo is on it)
-No coolant overflow
-Stock Camaro TB and MAF (MAF was getting maxed out with the springs that came in the wastegate and blowoff)
-LS3 MAF installed but not wired up or tuned

Transmission:
-Stock rebuild 4T80e from a 2000
-3.11 gears
-700+ ft-lb rated LSD
-GM axles
-Cheap transmission cooler mounted in front of the driver's side wheel (effectiveness unknown)

Suspension:
-Stock parts, maybe some stock spec aftermarket stuff
-Broken away bar links in front (makes for an extra "exciting" ride when attempting to tame 400+ HP)
-Worn out 225 mm tires

Exterior:
-Rust
-Body panels in two different shades of green
-Rust
-Front end body panels are not from an Ultra (the car is an Ultra)
-Rust

Interior:
-Bone stock with a boost gauge and wideband.
-Lots of broken interior panels
-Heat and heated seats work :)

Fast forward to a week ago...

My friend Daniel has had possession of the car ever since we got it. He's been dailying while stress testing and taking care of little details, repairs, tuning tweaks, and some diagnostics. It's a win win for us because he doesn't need to spend money for his own car, he really enjoys the project, and I didn't have storage space or time for another project lol...

Anyways, even though we knew the mass airflow sensor was getting maxed out, we didn't really worry about it because we weren't getting any knock. During an extended 20 plus PSI pull he blew out one of the head gaskets. I'm sure the AFR was quite lean and I'm thankful we didn't lose a piston. We will be keeping a close eye on the afrs until we rework the mass air flow sensor system.

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Before we can rework the mass air flow sensor, we need to finish getting the car running good. The afrs are all over the place at idle because the oxygen sensor hasn't really been working and the used one I had laying around that we tried to put in when doing the head gaskets also isn't working. While doing the head gaskets we found that the spark plug gaps were very inconsistent from 24 thou all the way up to close to 40. After finishing the head gaskets and regapping the plugs, the misfires are gone at idle and full throttle.

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Next steps will be to convert the ignition system to LS coils and try another oxygen sensor. As soon as the AFRs are good and the misfires are completely gone at the same time, we will be putting a mini AFC on the stock Camaro mass air flow sensor currently being used.

bs009

Making 3800's Great Again
Feb 13, 2014
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NashVegas
Nothing wrong with taking a break from the car for a few months. I go through cycles throughout the year myself where I dive balls deep into a single project for a while, get tired of it, and move on to something else for a while.

I can't say I've ever seen a spark plug do that though. What kind of gap are they supposed to be? Wonder if you can add more dwell with these pcms to run more plug gap for the lsx coils. I know with the Holley I can but it looks like the stock dwell tables are basically zeroed out in my old bin file
 

sktchy

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Ive only got the ones in the block I just pulled to go through or I'd hook you up. I've been on the lookout for engines but when they're asking 400 bucks for a questionable l36 around here these days.

It's the derby guys buying all these cars up for front wheel drive classes that are the problem now.
 

turtleman

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IMG_20240405_132136.jpg

I just got the last new oem L32 piston I can find (and the first one I've ever seen) on ebay. cool to see all the factory markings and stuff
Although after getting the fuel injectors tested by Boostie Boostie, I'm kinda sad to be putting this into the engine. With the fuel injectors not being the problem, I am left pretty clueless as to why this cylinder got enough temperature in it to pinch the ring and consequently have no way to prevent it happening again. Not a cool place to be

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These injectors were good. Can't say the same for my other two sets that had been removed from el tortuga after e85 use lol. Some of those were stuck closed before cleaning.

In any case I guess I'm just gonna move along with things. Transmission, flexplate, piston, oil pan drain, radiator leak - I've got a lot to do
 

sktchy

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I would assume 4 also being sandwiched is gonna make more heat than the end cylinders. Kinda similar to the siamese exhaust ports cracking through on on small block gm stuff except heating up cylinder temps and leading to preignition. Every failure I've had has been on cylinder 4 with the exception of a beat up rod bearing on cylinder 1 and I think that one was doomed from starvation to begin with
 

turtleman

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Sep 6, 2009
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I'm getting into the 4T80e valve body mods now.

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I got the lower valve body down without too much drama - hard not to get atf all over the floor but I'm over it..

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I'm wondering if this is a problem?

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I was pleased it wasn't a problem to keep the check balls under control - there's four out of the eight involved with the main channel plate.
I have torlon replacements for those.

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I'm about to the drill the holes to increase shift firmness. This lower channel plate has the holes for the 1-2 shift and the 3-4 shift. I think I'm just gonna leave the 3-4 alone - I don't know why I'd want more on that upshift.
I measured the holes with gauge pins.

stock 1-2 hole is .062"
mod guide says .093"
stock 3-4 hole is .076"
mod guide says .110"

Both of those would increase the sectional flow area by double and change in case anybody was curious about the differences. Seems like a lot to me but I don't really know how this crap works. Time to drill!
 

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