🔧 BUILD Queen: 4T80e Turbo 2001 Park Avenue

[turtleman]

Should be 28 spline so around 1 1/16ish i'd say at the thinnest where the splines are rolled

It might be too small but i was thinking of getting one of those axles and cutting it and splining the end for my cv axle but it looks like the largest diameter on the 80e output shaft is the bearing supported area close to the outside. That kinda looks bigger than the fbody axle

 

[turtleman]

The remade LSD is done.

I ground the sides that face anything moving and dimensioned it tighter to try to prevent any clunking when the diff changes direction.
You can see how the blocks are held in place by the pin and the spider gears.

After that I milled the spring pockets which is standard enough although I went to a precise depth that provides as much spring pressure as possible without bind, pretty much like it was set up but without the washers to shim out the springs tighter. I guess that might have been to have the option t have less preload or maybe they just f'd up and made the pockets too deep.
I did check the pressures on the springs and it is 1000+lbs between the four of them.

Then heat treated them aiming for 45Rc .

psychedelic bro!

Then I wire edm'd the bit for the spider gear pin. They originally milled that with I assume a normal 3/4 inch ball endmill and that works if done to the right depth but not totally ideal for nice even contact when the pin is .764"

And that's that. It's duplicated.
Oh yeah, I just omitted the holes for the side retaining pins because it's not necessary at all for this diff - actually kinda makes it harder.

And I have a NIB standard one for sale at a discount that I'll just need to buy another set of the springs for.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Tease

 

[turtleman]

Turbocharged400sbc

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

: soon :

 

[bs009]

This is some really awesome shit you're doing here, never considered it would be possible to do this haha

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

This is some really awesome shit you're doing here, never considered it would be possible to do this haha

I've never met someone who wanted a queef as bad as he in his 4t80e

 

[IDAFC21]

God I love that shit. Keep it going!

 

[turtleman]

Now that I'm done with the remade lsd insert, I'm getting started on the rest of the trans stuff. I could just pretty much toss this 45k mi 4t80e in and go but i might as well risk f'n it up and mod the valvebodies. I'm gonna pretty much just do the stuff mentioned in the 4t80e guide and one or two other tidbits. I need to get parts ordered but in the meantime, i'm taking it apart.

my network of drain pans

I knew as soon as I thought "this is going really well - i haven't spilled anything" I just enticed the universe, but it didn't go in! Subsequently I bought a lotto ticket.

I needed the cover layout for the future torsen lsd project so here's a peek into how that goes.

Step 1 establish measurement datum edges and set up reliable fixturing to work from.
With the cover off, the machined bottom is good.

clamping a carpenters straightedge to an arbitrary distance is not ideal but good enough for what i need. Most important is that's just square to the bottom and won't move during the measurements

Step 2 is to take measurements with calipers, micrometers, depth mics, and a tool or two I don't know the name of with precision blocks or whatever as needed and write em down as is (no math)
Also for this, I turned down the heads of ordinary cap screws for a touch point since the outside surface is usually not smooth or perfectly concentric to the thread.

Step 3 would be to enter all measurements, doing the math to go from edges to centers and adding/subtracting riser blocks as you go, to autocad.
The green stuff is related to measurement features, not part of the trans. Some non-essential elements are embellished just to help with orientation

Step 4 print out a life-scale template to cut out and check stuff with and make sure I didn't booboo something up

And now we're ready to make a diff cover holding plate to precisely machine my cover on a mill to accept a billet extension.

 

[turtleman]

v6buicks reinvigorated my motivation to put in the nuke fuel rails - not necessary but I want to use em. Support 3800 vendors and suchity-such.
So off to spend more money polishing a turd we go
James loaned me his loose intake setup and I was able to take a closer look at some things and made me realize the plumbing is gonna be different than I originally thought.

I knew the front end of the front rail wasn't gonna have enough room for even a banjo fitting to go there because it's too close to the water outlet.

front end of the rear rail

What I didn't know is that the rear rail also has a problem in the area behind the alternator, even with just having the plug on it. I probably need to at least modify the plastic alternator rear cover to even get the rail installed at all.
So that means I can't connect to one side of either rail which means I'm stuck using both of the underside rail fittings which I'm not thrilled about but I am happy they at least have that option.

So this is the arrangement I'm thinking. Reg is on the passenger side to fit NHRA rules. Hopefully the Y-block being where it is won't be an issue but I think that would be really nitpicking. I mean look at the rest of the car... I think it'd be fine.

 

[v6buicks]

Ooo Nukes are nice. I still find it so odd that they support the L36 of all engines.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Npt on curved top

meh, its slowly getting there... fuel rails anodized and sealed up with viton O rings for ethanol, remade the buick Tq link plate for more harness clearance and to drop some weight. made an extra just in case i fuck this one up.
strut bar and mounts are in, alignment is set at full positive camber at the camber bolts so that i can do final adjustment at the CC plates.

so then i moved onto the T stat housing and its conflict with the triple stack ICM/coil setup. i have to shorten the -16 hose but it'll fit now!

 

[turtleman]

Ooo Nukes are nice. I still find it so odd that they support the L36 of all engines.

It is really odd and that's why at a DNA level, I have to love em

 

[turtleman]

Npt on curved top

would do if i made the rails like fatman bois. I doubt they have more than a minimal extrusion thickness to play with and that's the way it should be - mr. lotus

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

It is really odd and that's why at a DNA level, I have to love em

Let's not love em too much, they also used the 4t65e pos

would do if i made the rails like fatman bois. I doubt they have more than a minimal extrusion thickness to play with and that's the way it should be - mr. lotus

Yeah where dem aluminium heads at mr lotus quoter

 

[turtleman]

gettin the dual fuel system sorted out. 93oct rails and methanol rails...
not really but could do if we also did up a way better intake and spent real money on a turbo one day for a kill-ass drag car deal.

I'm just trying to tickle my nipple playing with the fuel system and take that momentum into working on the trans which is way less fun and way more frightening to me.

but on that note i committed to a fuel reg location (oh and a fuel reg) deatschwerks for the win if you're doin -6

made a billet bracket for a buick park avenue baby baby

dialed

that's the Y that i'd have to be concerned about for rules

Anyway the fuel rail is, indeed, close to the alternator but they are just close and touchy, not a problem

This is the more worrying part. We're very close to the charge term but it'll be ok... yeah it'll be ok. aluminum oxide doesn't conduct electricity thank god. but uh when it wears through the 20 microns of anodizing? no! shut up - it won't do that
I'll stick a rubber pad there

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Could've machined away more aluminium , i am disappoint. -mr lotus

 

[turtleman]

Could've machined away more aluminium , i am disappoint. -mr lotus

those are the fuel cooling fins - functional
Also I realized there are some differences between your fbody upper intake and mine. Was yours like a 99+ version?
I want to fly cut it down to the parting line and then we could start tracing out the profile to add a couple inches of height, yea?

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Yeah that's a dbw tb version

Nopenopenope

 

[turtleman]

I seriously think it might be time to cut my losses, roll this car off a cliff, and take up a new hobby and choose happiness.
I just don't have it in me anymore for this level of fail.
There was no perceivable reason for this to happen. Car was running fantastic, mild boost, just having a good time and then cylinder 4 just starts misfiring because the spark plug shorted... The only other time I've done this, there was a very clear reason. Long ago I was doing a max effort m90/nitrous pass in the old riv and I had a bad number in my trans tune and it never upshifted so it was just like pegged at 7k rpm for a second with spray and everything - chipped a piston in my L26. A lot of temperature, and a tuning error - that's on me. I'm cool with that but this is some bullshit! This car is cursed.

I was in the middle of getting a fresh spunky transmission going, getting the radiator leak fixed, doin up the nifty new fuel rail setup, and a couple others odds and ends that was already plenty to be on my plate for a car that I was originally planning on being pretty much done working on by now, and then drive it across the country to visit my sister in FL. I just don't know what to do now - I'm drained

 

[v6buicks]

Damn man. I've been there. Some cars just seem to want to suck rather than live up to time and money we spend on them, but one thing is for sure. If I was in your shoes I'd regret giving up.

The only cars I really regret letting go are the ones I put my heart and soul into and let their shitty demeanor prompt a for sale sign.

That one has L67 pistons right? Has it been sitting a lot? Could it have been bad gas? Was it set up for E85?

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Put a new plug in and run it.

It probably fractured back when you milkshaked

 

[GTPpower]

Yeah, toss in a new piston and send it!

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Nah don't even.

What's a little ring flutter between 2 n 6

 

[turtleman]

I did that with the L26 riv before. It just sucks oil and gets worse. It's compromised. I can't count on it to be fast at the track or good on the long road