You don't know the history with him so I understand. Trust me, using parts that are OK with 98% of the 3800 world, will not work with him.
Gotcha. I feel like I fit into that category nicely myself though, lol. This is going to be another rambling post from me, but I think it's worth digging into a little.
For what it's worth, of the 3 engines I have destroyed over the last 4 years (spread across two cars), they all self-destructed at literally the exact same spot under similar acceleration conditions. The engines were on drastically different setups, at drastically different power levels, but all blew at similar RPMs and throttle position. It strikes me as more than coincidental that the OP said it happened at WOT around 90mph. That is the top of 2nd on a PAU (5500rpm is 91.5 mph), which is exactly where all my failures have been. I will elaborate:
The first engine I blew up was the stock L67 in my 98 Park Avenue Ultra. At that point, I had the M90 pretty well maxxed out and up to that point had experienced zero problems with the car. It was on straight methanol with intercooling, M90 with 2.55" pulley and overdrive crank, etc. I was running stupid amounts of timing advance at the time because methanol doesn't really tell you when to stop (you'll pretty much pre-ignite before you knock). I was doing my usual pull onto the highway on the way home from work, when all of a sudden near the top of 2nd gear, BOOM. My #2 rod vanished. Big end intact, piston intact above the wrist pin, rod through the block. I was logging at the time and experienced zero knock and no unusual AFRs or anything that would point at any particular cause. I assume the fact that I was running like 40 degrees of timing advance probably just resulted in too much cylinder pressure for the rod to handle. That was early in my tuning experience and my first experience with methanol. Live and learn.
The second was the stock L67 in my 1998 Regal. Same highway ramp, same type of acceleration, same type of boost level (this was right after slapping the M122 on), but it wasn't making good power like the tapped out M90 did, don't know why. Same story, it started making a racket just over 5,000rpms at the top of 2nd. This time, however, it ate a bearing and started knocking. That car had well over 220k on the engine and I know for a fact it was not well cared for. It had been in our Buy-here-pay-here fleet for at least 5 years, so had been out collecting hard miles from low-rent customers with few oil changes or other maintenance. I attribute that one to long-term poor maintenance and bearings that were too loose/about to go anyway, but it's interesting that it happened under the same circumstances.
The third time was the L26 bottom end on my 1998 Park Avenue in twincharged configuration. Same story...it was maybe the second or third time I had actually gone wide open throttle on the setup, and I had just turned the boost up some more. I'll be damned if it didn't blow within 50 feet of my other two disasters...again, at the top of 2nd gear at WOT. I still haven't torn that down to see what the cause is, but it still had oil pressure so I'm assuming it's like the first engine and my big end will be intact, my block will have a window, etc.
I have become convinced there is something magical about that RPM range under WOT that is contributing to these failures. Whether it's something in the tune, or something physically in the engines that doesn't like that rev range. Only one of the failures appears to be lubrication related, the other two appear to be (I'll have to confirm with this latest failure) rod or wrist pin failure.
All these engines still had balance shafts, so I don't know whether that could be an issue at higher RPMs. The timing advance was drastically different, I was actually considerably less than stock advance even on my last failure (hadn't even started turning the timing up or leaning fuel yet). The AFRs were drastically different. The only thing all these failures have in common is the RPM and engine loading conditions. Basically, going uphill at the top of 2nd at WOT.
I think we can all agree that the OP didn't blow this engine up due to excessive power, so it might be worth digging into what the weakness of these engines might be under those conditions. Granted, he had a canned tune that may have contributed, but my engines blew with varying states of tune. The first being super aggressive, the second more or less stock, the third super conservative...the only one that showed any knock was the stock tune on the regal and even it didn't knock with water/meth.
I don't know what the point of this post is other than to share my experiences and see if anyone has any ideas about what the common cause might be.