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n20 and me

Sinister Drag Designs

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hey guys im just wondering what i would have to change about my setup to run a zex 35 or 55 shot


my setup

3.4and 3.25 and 3.0 pulleys
afc2.2
160thermo
race gas(cam2 100 oct.)
tr6 plugs gapped at 54
msd wires
thrasher cai
full 3 inch cat back
fp rewire
timing commander(still waiting for dhp)
3 dp and test pipe (next week)
, do i have to make changes
like spark gap, timing settings
afc settings, certain octane gas

what do u guys think?
 

GTPPWR

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35? can you even feel it? put either a 75 or 100 on it. I'd do a 75 for dailey.

colder plugs, retard ignition timing a lil bit. highest octane level 93+. I have friends that have up to 150, and have had no problems with it. my advice is: dont waste money on the 50 shot jets. go for the 75.

you will like the difference. is it wet or dry shot??
 

Sinister Drag Designs

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Originally posted by GTPPWR@Sep 3 2005, 02:07 PM
35?  can you even feel it?  put either a 75 or 100 on it.  I'd do a 75 for dailey.

colder plugs, retard ignition timing a lil bit. highest octane level  93+.  I have friends that have up to 150, and have had no problems with it.  my advice is: dont waste money on the 50 shot jets.  go for the 75. 

you will like the difference.  is it wet or dry shot??
[snapback]96855[/snapback]​
zoomer says use the zex dry kit , which should be fine ,i have a afc2.2 so turning up fuel can be taken car e of by that , and like i said im only trying to get high 12's no more then that , i like my trans and dont want to rebuild or build it up if at all possible. and a 50 shot can make a big differance , look at what a pulley can do 15 or 20 hp gained and help lower et's a couple of tenthes hell ive seen intake and pulley combos alone drop almosta full secfrom a 15 toa 14. so a 50 shot should give me at least a 1/2 sec .... i hope and its just for the high end in 2nd gear anyways , just casuse our cars suck as at high rpms with stock cams,

anyways , why do u recommenda wet kit , doesnt a wet kit hav eto be direct port?, i dont think ur supposed to dump gas in that blower through the intake setup
 

Sinister Drag Designs

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Originally posted by sinr247+Sep 3 2005, 03:35 PM-->
<!--QuoteBegin-GTPPWR
@Sep 3 2005, 02:07 PM
35?   can you even feel it?   put either a 75 or 100 on it.  I'd do a 75 for dailey.

colder plugs, retard ignition timing a lil bit. highest octane level  93+.   I have friends that have up to 150, and have had no problems with it.  my advice is: dont waste money on the 50 shot jets.  go for the 75.  

you will like the difference.  is it wet or dry shot??
[snapback]96855[/snapback]​
zoomer says use the zex dry kit , which should be fine ,i have a afc2.2 so turning up fuel can be taken car e of by that , and like i said im only trying to get high 12's no more then that , i like my trans and dont want to rebuild or build it up if at all possible. and a 50 shot can make a big differance , look at what a pulley can do 15 or 20 hp gained and help lower et's a couple of tenthes hell ive seen intake and pulley combos alone drop almosta full secfrom a 15 toa 14. so a 50 shot should give me at least a 1/2 sec .... i hope and its just for the high end in 2nd gear anyways , just casuse our cars suck as at high rpms with stock cams,

anyways , why do u recommenda wet kit , doesnt a wet kit hav eto be direct port?, i dont think ur supposed to dump gas in that blower through the intake setup
[snapback]96860[/snapback]​
[/b]
thrasher seels a tb spacer kit for there n20 kit , but thats after the mass, zoomer says beforethe mass ...... who's right, or more or less which is safe
 

GTPPWR

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with a wet kit, you do it after the MAF, which is why they sell the spacer specifically for thewet kit. I have had tooo many problems with using a dry shot. IMO, wet is a lot safer, and more affective. I'd use NX wet shot. They are the best.

If you stick with the dry shot...then it goes before the MAF. again its personal preferrence. WET is 100% safer. better to use, and very easy to install.

I'd advance it to the 75 wet. rather than a 50 dry. the motor will take a 100 easy all day long. for a dailey..I'd do a 75. this is just my opinion.
 

Sinister Drag Designs

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Originally posted by syP@Sep 4 2005, 11:25 PM
dont forget to add a NAWWWZZZ stick on the side k?
[snapback]96905[/snapback]​
i knew that nos wont activate if the stickers not on there, and i think it voids the warrenty

ok well what wet kit would u recommend, and also i thought u cant pass gas through a blower, and why besides selling there kit specifcly, would zoomer recommend a dry kit, but wouldnt my afc and dry kit, work together much like wetket, i mean more fuel and nitrous, it just wouldntmix in the blower..... am i right or am i way off
 

Fish

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Alot of people have had good results with the Zex dry kit. If I were do do it, that would be the kit I would get. I have always heard people say to spray after the MAF as well. As far as going through the S/C rotors, Im not sure. Id assume it would be fine since people like to spray alky though the blower. Im sure N2O wouldnt be a problem.

JMO.
 

Sinister Drag Designs

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Originally posted by Fish@Sep 5 2005, 02:35 AM
Alot of people have had good results with the Zex dry kit. If I were do do it, that would be the kit I would get. I have always heard people say to spray after the MAF as well. As far as going through the S/C rotors, Im not sure. Id assume it would be fine since people like to spray alky though the blower. Im sure N2O wouldnt be a problem.

JMO.
[snapback]96908[/snapback]​
thats good advice, except i said i dont want to put gas in my blower i have nothing against meth, or n2o going thru it, but dry gets do have to go thru the maf, i think u all confirmed that, but uping the fuel, i see as a smart move, using my afc 2.2 but what should i adjust it, im only using at the mid to top part of 2nd gear,so should i just up the cruise and adn wot setting a percent or two, i dont want to run lean at the top end a blow some shit up liek piston or more
 

Sinister Drag Designs

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Originally posted by sinr247+Sep 5 2005, 03:39 PM-->
<!--QuoteBegin-Fish
@Sep 5 2005, 02:35 AM
Alot of people have had good results with the Zex dry kit. If I were do do it, that would be the kit I would get. I have always heard people say to spray after the MAF as well. As far as going through the S/C rotors, Im not sure. Id assume it would be fine since people like to spray alky though the blower. Im sure N2O wouldnt be a problem.

JMO.
[snapback]96908[/snapback]​
thats good advice, except i said i dont want to put gas in my blower i have nothing against meth, or n2o going thru it, but dry gets do have to go thru the maf, i think u all confirmed that, but uping the fuel, i see as a smart move, using my afc 2.2 but what should i adjust it, im only using at the mid to top part of 2nd gear,so should i just up the cruise and adn wot setting a percent or two, i dont want to run lean at the top end a blow some shit up liek piston or more
[snapback]96921[/snapback]​
[/b]
ok i went over to the zex website, and this is what they say....

What is better, a "wet" or "dry" kit?
A: It all depends on the application. A "wet" kit is ideal for both normally aspirated applications as well as forced induction applications. It can require a little bit more installation time than a "dry" kit, but is easier to tune if greater than stock HP settings are to be experimented with. A "dry" kit is excellent for normally aspirated combinations that have a return style fuel system. They are very easy to install and are a great "first time" nitrous system. It is not recommended that "dry" systems be used on forced induction engines.

so is zoomer giving miss info, and on there site the dry kit is $611and zoomer sells his for 500 so does he change the kit he sells to be safer for are cars or is he just gettinga better deal, does anyone know for sure
 

Sinister Drag Designs

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Originally posted by sinr247+Sep 5 2005, 04:59 PM-->
Originally posted by [email protected] 5 2005, 03:39 PM
<!--QuoteBegin-Fish
@Sep 5 2005, 02:35 AM
Alot of people have had good results with the Zex dry kit. If I were do do it, that would be the kit I would get. I have always heard people say to spray after the MAF as well. As far as going through the S/C rotors, Im not sure. Id assume it would be fine since people like to spray alky though the blower. Im sure N2O wouldnt be a problem.

JMO.
[snapback]96908[/snapback]​

thats good advice, except i said i dont want to put gas in my blower i have nothing against meth, or n2o going thru it, but dry gets do have to go thru the maf, i think u all confirmed that, but uping the fuel, i see as a smart move, using my afc 2.2 but what should i adjust it, im only using at the mid to top part of 2nd gear,so should i just up the cruise and adn wot setting a percent or two, i dont want to run lean at the top end a blow some shit up liek piston or more
[snapback]96921[/snapback]​
ok i went over to the zex website, and this is what they say....

What is better, a "wet" or "dry" kit?
A: It all depends on the application. A "wet" kit is ideal for both normally aspirated applications as well as forced induction applications. It can require a little bit more installation time than a "dry" kit, but is easier to tune if greater than stock HP settings are to be experimented with. A "dry" kit is excellent for normally aspirated combinations that have a return style fuel system. They are very easy to install and are a great "first time" nitrous system. It is not recommended that "dry" systems be used on forced induction engines.

so is zoomer giving miss info, and on there site the dry kit is $611and zoomer sells his for 500 so does he change the kit he sells to be safer for are cars or is he just gettinga better deal, does anyone know for sure
[snapback]96924[/snapback]​
[/b]
no opinions.... thats a first
 

GTPPWR

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I have friends up here using wet kits on the L67 motors. they have a spacer between the TB, and the blower.

Wet is safer. you can turn up your fuel with the AFC, and just use a Dry. I have had problems with dry kits...so I dont use them.
 

Sinister Drag Designs

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Originally posted by GTPPWR@Sep 6 2005, 08:53 PM
I have friends up here using wet kits on the L67 motors. they have a spacer between the TB, and the blower.

Wet is safer.  you can turn up your fuel with the AFC, and just use a Dry.  I have had problems with dry kits...so I dont use them.
[snapback]97007[/snapback]​
ok so know ive got 50% saying wet and 50%saying dry
and zoomer says wet is impossible to tune, no clue why , but he says when he first started out he used a dry kit all day long with no issues, im so confused, i know thrasher will say wet cause thats what they seel ,and zzp says dry cause again its what they say, im realy wonderign why zoomers kit is 500 and jegs summit and zex direct sell the kit for 600, i asked tim from zzp but he always just has to ask zoomer , i never get aresponse that he hasnt either talked to zoomerabout or he sounds confusedand just says yes ur right abotu what ever i asked, i need some clarity bout this, is there any hope
 

GTPPWR

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wet kit impossible to tune????????? :blink: :blink:

never heard that before.
 

Sinister Drag Designs

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Originally posted by GTPPWR@Sep 7 2005, 07:11 PM
wet kit impossible to tune????????? :blink:  :blink:

never heard that before.
[snapback]97102[/snapback]​
thats what the giant with the 9 sec.. sorry, soon to be 9 sec gtp said to me
 

sweetness

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You can safely pass fuel through our blowers. Look at old carb engines with root blowers. the gas passes through the S/C.

If you plan on going with a dry kit i suggest that you dont go shooting for the stars right away. You will need to make sure that after your engine has met its fuel demands that it can still fuel the nitrous. Even with a retune there is only so far you can go with stock injectors.


Use other people experiences to guage how far you can go with your mods. I highly doubt a 50 shot will drop 1/2 a second off your 1/4 mile time.

BC
 

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