Originally posted by sinr247+Sep 5 2005, 04:59 PM-->
Originally posted by sinr247@Sep 5 2005, 03:39 PM
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@Sep 5 2005, 02:35 AM
Alot of people have had good results with the Zex dry kit. If I were do do it, that would be the kit I would get. I have always heard people say to spray after the MAF as well. As far as going through the S/C rotors, Im not sure. Id assume it would be fine since people like to spray alky though the blower. Im sure N2O wouldnt be a problem.
JMO.
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thats good advice, except i said i dont want to put gas in my blower i have nothing against meth, or n2o going thru it, but dry gets do have to go thru the maf, i think u all confirmed that, but uping the fuel, i see as a smart move, using my afc 2.2 but what should i adjust it, im only using at the mid to top part of 2nd gear,so should i just up the cruise and adn wot setting a percent or two, i dont want to run lean at the top end a blow some shit up liek piston or more
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ok i went over to the zex website, and this is what they say....
What is better, a "wet" or "dry" kit?
A: It all depends on the application. A "wet" kit is ideal for both normally aspirated applications as well as forced induction applications. It can require a little bit more installation time than a "dry" kit, but is easier to tune if greater than stock HP settings are to be experimented with. A "dry" kit is excellent for normally aspirated combinations that have a return style fuel system. They are very easy to install and are a great "first time" nitrous system.
It is not recommended that "dry" systems be used on forced induction engines.
so is zoomer giving miss info, and on there site the dry kit is $611and zoomer sells his for 500 so does he change the kit he sells to be safer for are cars or is he just gettinga better deal, does anyone know for sure
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