🔧 BUILD My junker Buick revival....

[Bob Kazamakis]

Trade ya 14mm brackets with bolts for the 12mm oe ones

Sell them to some Grand Prix nerd and hit the JY. Otherwise rock auto sells just the brackets

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

I'll have to check into the RockAuto angle.

You said you were looking for a drum brake hub for your car and I figured I would show you this in case it might help you.
BOPC BUICK OLDS PONTIAC CAD SWAP MEET

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

Someone go get me one. That's a far drive for me

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Oh yeah I forgot you're one of the untold masses who decided to flee Illinois in droves

 

[HILROD]

"If" the hubs you need are the same as chevy, you can get a hub from up to a 74 Nova. They are the same Camaro Chevelle and Nova. Buick and Pontiac sometimes used different hubs that stuck out farther.

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

I'm cool with any hubs that work. The one I have looks like all the others as far as I can tell. I've got Monte Carlo spindles on my car now but have my drum spindles laying around still.

Looks like I'll need a spacer to go along with my brackets if I use the disc spindles or if I use the drum spindles I need to cut down the top boss a bit.

 

[HILROD]

They sell the hubs new steel and aluminum. Or if you can find cheap rotors you can have anyone with a brake lathe cut them into hubs.

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

I found some aluminum ones for $300 and some repo's for about $100. Looks like they're all the same for a-bodies, camaros, novas in the same era.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

I will give you a couple warnings on the replicas:

1)If they have studs plan on pressing them out and putting in 1/2" studs in. Dorman has a part, I can dig it up from the Lemans thread if you want
2)They did make 2 different offsets of these. If you can get the ones from a Lemans like mine you'll stick out a bit more. They did this to make the drum and disk cars the same wheel spacing. They should fit regardless, they use the same bearings and have the same spacing between races.
3)You still have to turn down a bit on them. At least I did on the ones I had.

May be worth it to get the billet ones to you, mine have held up okay over 1Kish miles though. You'll be 2/3 the way to the billets by the time you get everything done to the replicas probably.

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

The concern with the hubs sticking out farther is the brackets would need modifying. Looks like I need longer studs regardless of which hubs I get.

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

Got my e-fan last night. Size seems pretty damn perfect

Now the question is, do I mount it as stock up top (the rad) or do I slide it forward?


In this spot I can use the stock rad mount on top and could use angle stock to connect the e fan to the upper shroud. The lower mount for the old mechanical shroud should work fine.

Or I can angle it forward up top, use flat stock to connect the e-fan to the upper shroud and then would have to make custom rad mounts up top. Can still use the stock tabs for the shroud on the bottom.

 

[SleeperLS]

Option A, so you can fit a bigger intercooler up front when you decide to throw a turbo LS motor in it.

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

Still plenty of room for a large intercooler either way, and it'll never have a Chevy engine

 

[EmersonHart13]

Flush it up, stay NA, because big ass big block

 

[Primalzer]

Flush it up, stay NA, because big ass big block

But but but....turbo!

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

Flush it up, stay NA, because big ass big block

I can't decide if it'll bother me having it be at a slight angle

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

Another question, any reason not to get polyurethane radiator mounts vs rubber? Price difference is marginal.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Rubber is better unless you have an oil leaker.... in which case it will degrade faster than the urethane.
But in this case you want the softer rubber to help keep the radiator isolated from major vibrations where urethane is too stiff and will transmit them.

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

I figured the urethane would hold it in place better while still being "soft" enough not to fuck anything up.

No oil up in that area anymore, trans cooler delete :naughty:

 

[Gav'sPurpleZ]

option A for mounting.
I believe that's what [MENTION=148]HILROD[/MENTION] did for the ole 77

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

Took my dash all apart to get on that while I wait for shit to show up for other areas of the car. Trying to decide where is best for a shift light.

 

[SleeperLS]

Lighter hole?

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

I'd like to be able to use that for charging......


Was thinking drivers vent, middle vent or the less desirable drill a joke in the rectangle Buick cover that's popped out. I'd prefer to not see it other than when lit up it's quite small, about the size of chapstick

 

[crooks]

Vent on drivers side gets my vote.

 

[SleeperLS]

I'd like to be able to use that for charging......


Was thinking drivers vent, middle vent or the less desirable drill a joke in the rectangle Buick cover that's popped out. I'd prefer to not see it other than when lit up it's quite small, about the size of chapstick

You could relocate the cigarette charger to a hidden spot under the dash. The light would be more stealth and you shouldn't have to modify much in the existing lighter hole. putting it inside the vent wouldn't be a bad option at all.