That is what I’m using too. I put it in a ziplock with desiccant packets thinking maybe it absorbed water. Haven’t tried since. The hotend has been great otherwise, also got a screw in thermistor from the same company. Gulf robotics I think?
đź’¬ OT 3D printers...who has one?
- Thread starter Lord Tin Foilhat
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I was looking at Triangle Labs.
All my stuff is in dry boxes with desiccant packs and I print from the dry boxes. If they arent in the printing dry boxes, they are in ziplocks with desiccant and then put in a plastic box with more desiccant. I dont think moisture is my issue
no. all you have to do is remove the bowden so you can grasp the filament n carriage and pull firmly.
your probably fine to just hand feed during the void purge/cooldown.
with pla i start to pull at around 60c when my hownd fan startsup. the plastic will heatup towards its core and you stretch it which pulls it in from the sides and out she comes. sometimes with pla it'd snapoff at the heatbreak zone....none so far with petg, its just so stringy
your probably fine to just hand feed during the void purge/cooldown.
with pla i start to pull at around 60c when my hownd fan startsup. the plastic will heatup towards its core and you stretch it which pulls it in from the sides and out she comes. sometimes with pla it'd snapoff at the heatbreak zone....none so far with petg, its just so stringy
do a pid learn. if its an exact replacment it might be fine but id still do it
gotcha. I will be using Nylon (trimmer line) for the cold pull most likely
I was looking at Triangle Labs.
All my stuff is in dry boxes with desiccant packs and I print from the dry boxes. If they arent in the printing dry boxes, they are in ziplocks with desiccant and then put in a plastic box with more desiccant. I dont think moisture is my issue
All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality Ender 3 Pro V2 Ender 5 CR10 3D Printers
Our All Metal Hotend Kit for Ender 3 (Pro/V2), Ender 5 and CR10 prints up to 300C, unlocking a wide range of new filament, from PETG to Nylon and Polycarbonate.
EPCOS Thermistor Upgrade for Creality Ender-3 Ender-5 CR-10 3D Printers
The EPCOS Thermistor is a perfect fit for Creality 3D Printers, including the Ender 3 / 5 Pro, CR10 and more. It offers working temperatures up to 300° Celsius.
I’m under the impression you can’t do one with the stock board
you can, you just need to hook it up to a computerI’m under the impression you can’t do one with the stock board
EASY Ender 3 Hot End PID Auto Tuning - Print3D.World
Have you just switched nozzles on your Ender 3, or maybe even a new hot-end? We have experience doing both; switching to the Micro Swiss All Metal Hot End, as well as using the hardened steel nozzles. Every time we make a change to our hot-end we disrupt the PID loop. A P.I.D Loop is […]
print3d.world
pronterface is an application that will allow you to send marlin codes to it.
I use Octoprint so I have direct access to a terminal to send commands.
So my problem might be a bad solder connection that broke. I extended my extruder cable for direct drive and when I squeeze the solder points, the extruder extrudes correctly. Let go and it skips. I can make a spot that doesn't print, print fine if I squeeze the heat shrink while it passes that point.
So cleaned out my hotend. New nozzle, New inner PTFE. Re-did my Extruder motor splicing and instead of soldering, I used my tried and true dolphin connectors. Oh also the stock motor wires are fucking garbage thin ass shit FYI. Had to re-do 2 of the inner wires on the plug because when I went to strip some of the jacket off, the fucking inner wires disconnected and literally pulled out of the jacket while the jacket was still connected into the crimped end of the white motor cable plug.....so I had a wire coming off the plug that was literally just the rubber jacket....empty inside.
Reset my Z-Offset.
And PLA prints just dandy again.
But based on the PTFE I believe I got heat creep with PETG temperatures which caused a semi-clogged inner PTFE tube. Or it was just small clogs overtime and got plugged up and it was too high to remove with a cold pull.
I will have to try printing PETG again and see what happens. I know it works, but it got all gunked up after about 24 hours of straight PETG printing with little breaks every few hours to clear the plate and start another print.
Reset my Z-Offset.
And PLA prints just dandy again.
But based on the PTFE I believe I got heat creep with PETG temperatures which caused a semi-clogged inner PTFE tube. Or it was just small clogs overtime and got plugged up and it was too high to remove with a cold pull.
I will have to try printing PETG again and see what happens. I know it works, but it got all gunked up after about 24 hours of straight PETG printing with little breaks every few hours to clear the plate and start another print.
try to run a PID Tune for the hotend.
It looks like layer seperation . maybe try a hotter temp or maybe over-extrusion too?
Print Quality Guide | Simplify3D Software
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4581970
I saw this and chuckled. It's an AAA to AA adapter. While I don't have any use for it I do buy AAAs by the pile as rechargeables. At that point I don't know that I'd mind the reduced battery life in most things.
The reason I was even looking is there are some mag lite battery adapters (1 18650 in a 2 C or D, 2 18650s in a 3 or 4 cell unit.) I have a few 3C cheapie flash lights around here and thought it may be interesting to make a couple up and retrofit to LED. I also need a "host" to put some IR LEDs I have in as well and thought they'd be fitting for that. Not only that but if I could score a couple 3C mags at a yard sale they're still not bad quality in terms of build.
I saw this and chuckled. It's an AAA to AA adapter. While I don't have any use for it I do buy AAAs by the pile as rechargeables. At that point I don't know that I'd mind the reduced battery life in most things.
The reason I was even looking is there are some mag lite battery adapters (1 18650 in a 2 C or D, 2 18650s in a 3 or 4 cell unit.) I have a few 3C cheapie flash lights around here and thought it may be interesting to make a couple up and retrofit to LED. I also need a "host" to put some IR LEDs I have in as well and thought they'd be fitting for that. Not only that but if I could score a couple 3C mags at a yard sale they're still not bad quality in terms of build.
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