💬 OT 3D printers...who has one?

[Turbocharged400sbc]

is it the true skr 1.4? the skr 1.3 was fucking garbage i kinda want a board upgrade for marlin 2.0 without being stuck in the MKRBS robin nanno tree branch with its limits.

but if i do that ill probably go duet. them brits sure got that shit on point, plus 2.8 amp drivers

quick suggestion everyone.....its time for a heater PID learn....
at this point im going to suggest that this is something for you to REGULARLY do.

its also a harbinger of things to come if the parameters vary from your previous PID.

deffinatly do it even if you ONLY service it and the heater and thermister were even looked at.

the PID learn helps keep ya from overshooting the temp (heater hysteresis) and holy fuck do small changes really screw with odd things, line klayer hernia's at overhangs, traverse bubles/filament cooking.

dont forget that after you input the new Kp, Ki, Kd via the M301 make sure you M500 to save into the firmware if you dont manually edit config.h

bed heater doesnt seem to have as much variance but writing the values down and testing every now and then might tell you when one of the heater circuit paths might burn out (those of us with bed blankets cant readily look at the heater pad)

i will tell you this much, just having plastic "wick" into the heater pill area changed my values.

ive also gotten a little farther with the electronics backpack for the "little" printer. still have to setup the power supplies but the pi4 is setup as a master temp monitor/kill with octoprint and is completely stand alone with a contactor to kill the power and or trigger the nitrogen flood extinguisher (300+c for polycarbonate).
this is meant to easily transfer to the "big" printer as we assemble and test its systems over the next 10 years

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

You make things seem less fun and more like work

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

same difference

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

That's a sweet ass setup.

I have the skr 2.0 they made some Improvements over the previous boards. So far so good. I need to update the firmware on it, hopefully do it this weekend.

 

[b00sted]

I finally got my skr-mini e3 in the mail after 7 months and got it up and running this past weekend. So far so good, though I did end up flashing the latest build of Marlin because I wanted the manual mesh bed leveling and stuff.

I'm going to upgrade the bowden tube, get some better PLA(prusa) and then tune the extrusion... That's pretty much all that's left to do. Right now I get small zits on the surface here and there because it's not coasting enough at the end of a line.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

I finally got my skr-mini e3 in the mail after 7 months and got it up and running this past weekend. So far so good, though I did end up flashing the latest build of Marlin because I wanted the manual mesh bed leveling and stuff.

I'm going to upgrade the bowden tube, get some better PLA(prusa) and then tune the extrusion... That's pretty much all that's left to do. Right now I get small zits on the surface here and there because it's not coasting enough at the end of a line.

Do the chep hotend mod if you haven't. Basically stick a small piece of capicorn ptfe in the hotend then add a spacer at the top. Let's you keep the stock Bowden tube except in the hotend so you can run hotter temps.

I'll be coverting to direct drive sooner then later

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

I can mail you a small piece of Capricorn brand tube if you want. I went back to the stock tube when I upgraded my hot end to an all metal one.

b00sted

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

I can mail you a small piece of Capricorn brand tube if you want. I went back to the stock tube when I upgraded my hot end to an all metal one.

Yeah I also am still using the stock Bowden and just capicorn in the hotend. Zero issues here with pla, petg and tpu

 

[02BlueGT]

is it the true skr 1.4? the skr 1.3 was fucking garbage i kinda want a board upgrade for marlin 2.0 without being stuck in the MKRBS robin nanno tree branch with its limits.

but if i do that ill probably go duet. them brits sure got that shit on point, plus 2.8 amp drivers

quick suggestion everyone.....its time for a heater PID learn....
at this point im going to suggest that this is something for you to REGULARLY do.

its also a harbinger of things to come if the parameters vary from your previous PID.

deffinatly do it even if you ONLY service it and the heater and thermister were even looked at.

the PID learn helps keep ya from overshooting the temp (heater hysteresis) and holy fuck do small changes really screw with odd things, line klayer hernia's at overhangs, traverse bubles/filament cooking.

dont forget that after you input the new Kp, Ki, Kd via the M301 make sure you M500 to save into the firmware if you dont manually edit config.h

bed heater doesnt seem to have as much variance but writing the values down and testing every now and then might tell you when one of the heater circuit paths might burn out (those of us with bed blankets cant readily look at the heater pad)

i will tell you this much, just having plastic "wick" into the heater pill area changed my values.

ive also gotten a little farther with the electronics backpack for the "little" printer. still have to setup the power supplies but the pi4 is setup as a master temp monitor/kill with octoprint and is completely stand alone with a contactor to kill the power and or trigger the nitrogen flood extinguisher (300+c for polycarbonate).
this is meant to easily transfer to the "big" printer as we assemble and test its systems over the next 10 years

It's the real 1.4 turbo with the dip setup. I did 5x 2209s for the eventual dual z setup I wanna do. Sensor less homing is neat, but I may go back to sensors as the sensor less isn't consistent enough for me. The all metal titanium heat break has been pretty nice too. I did linear rail/bearing blocks on my x and y axis, with the rails for z sitting on the shelf next to it. My work bench is looking like Jane's Cressida, lol

I did about 1000 ear strain straps for my neighbor when Corona started, otherwise it's been on minimal duty. This poop trophy I did for a guy at work is one of my more favorite prints to date....

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

Finally put together direct drive this morning

 

[b00sted]

How is it with the added weight on the extruder? Any ghosting?

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

How is it with the added weight on the extruder? Any ghosting?

I haven't noticed any issues at the speeds I run currently (40-60mm/s)

 

[b00sted]

Even though they're pretty unnecessary, I've been watching videos on installing linear rails and getting kind of tempted.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

Even though they're pretty unnecessary, I've been watching videos on installing linear rails and getting kind of tempted.

Yeah it's been on my mind just I can't justify the cost at the moment.

Maybe if I start making money with this thing.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

Ever since I got this cheap $15 PEI sheet, printing PETG has been a piece of cake. The BLtouch probably helps too but I am getting some great adhesion now compared to before.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

hey dave, uh fyi a main drawback of dual servo Z is that without the stepper brakes applied the Z screws can be shifted out of sync, best options in my opinion use belts to link both lead screws, people do single stepper dual z all the time, my stepper never has any issue.

if you keep the dual steppers...just do yerself a favor and do the belt so you never have to worry about crashing your hotend after loading filament/etc.

with figurines/cooling and plastic curling ive found some prints need up to 3mm z hops to keep from knocking something off the build plate.

linear bearings do make things tighter, but also removes the slight Z play that allows the hotend to "trip" up and over these curls at overhangs during non Zhop traverses.

V groove wheels are almost perfect for the dirty environment of a house.

after the 12th time cleaning a linear bearing from dust causing it to stick youll be building a large enclosure with filtered airflow.

the V groove wheels on my nereus look like someone hasent cleaned it in 2 years, rolls as smooth as it was new.

you wanna get rid of the salmon skin make sure the pulleys are good quality and buy toothed pulleys to replace smooth pulleys that they let the toothed side of the belt ride on.

the teeth act like 5-6 (dep on pulley dia) tiny rubber springs, this itself imparts a texture though its not as noticable as the servo steps with or without a stepper driver with frequency choppers/silent drives.

if yer machine is kinda musical sounding at lower speeds your probably running a4688 drivers without those features (if youve ever heard of stepper driver upgrades this is the big reason people go with signal procesed drivers.

just some brain droppings fer ya

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

Was printing PETG perfect for days.....now I get clogs after about 5/10 mins

Replaced the nozzle which helped for a few extra minutes and then it happens again. Tried PID tune, no luck.

Going to have to rip apart the hotend and see if the PTFE clogged inside or there is some residue.

It will be printing and then it stops feeding and you hear the extruder clicking.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

or the extruder motor is having issues, but if I just do manual commands for extruder feeds, it seems to be fine. Only clogs when printing.

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

That’s what got me to quit petg for the most part. Haven’t had time to tweak it anymore. I can go 30 minutes and it’s fine.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

That’s what got me to quit petg for the most part. Haven’t had time to tweak it anymore. I can go 30 minutes and it’s fine.

yeah it is frustrating when nothing has changed and now its just failure after failure.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Was printing PETG perfect for days.....now I get clogs after about 5/10 mins

Replaced the nozzle which helped for a few extra minutes and then it happens again. Tried PID tune, no luck.

Going to have to rip apart the hotend and see if the PTFE clogged inside or there is some residue.

It will be printing and then it stops feeding and you hear the extruder clicking.

its the cooldown drain, it just drains the liquid out at the end of a print and the walls cook the petg up to the heatbreak, same thing with pla. this shits much more noticable in my large chamber volcano.
you can do a cold pull with petg. i pulled out some old PLA with my first petg pull, and i had done a pla cold pull at changeover.

heat to 250 and kill, feed/flush, fast 1mm jolts, shut down machine and hand feed with thumbwheel till she stops being hot enough to extrude, let it cool to ambient. now the chamber is full and free of pockets.

release tube from hotend and get ready to pull and heat er up. start pulling at 70c+ and she will ull through.

petg was way more forgiving and stringy than pla for cold pulls so far

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

its the cooldown drain, it just drains the liquid out at the end of a print and the walls cook the petg up to the heatbreak, same thing with pla. this shits much more noticable in my large chamber volcano.
you can do a cold pull with petg. i pulled out some old PLA with my first petg pull, and i had done a pla cold pull at changeover.

heat to 250 and kill, feed/flush, fast 1mm jolts, shut down machine and hand feed with thumbwheel till she stops being hot enough to extrude, let it cool to ambient. now the chamber is full and free of pockets.

release tube from hotend and get ready to pull and heat er up. start pulling at 70c+ and she will ull through.

petg was way more forgiving and stringy than pla for cold pulls so far

so I have an Ender3 with the stock hot end. This one:


Now I did the PTFE mod and inserted a piece of capricorn tube inside the hotend and then put a plastic stopper at the top. Basically to prevent the cheaper crappy PTFE from going all the way down in. (granted not anymore since I am direct drive and all capricorn)

The question I had is, do I need to remove the PTFE tube in the hotend and have just an empty hotend for the cold pulls?

essentially my setup is this: but it isnt plastic obviously. But I have a piece of Capricorn Tube for the tube inside the hotend. I am assuming I need to remove that for the cold pull?

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

My printer behaved the exact same way with petg before and after replacing the entire hot end with a micro swiss knock off which led me to believe mine was more settings than anything.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

My printer behaved the exact same way with petg before and after replacing the entire hot end with a micro swiss knock off which led me to believe mine was more settings than anything.

hm interesting. I was considering a micro swiss knock off just right now But if you still had clogs, I wonder if its just the cheap Inland PETG. Chep mentioned he had a lot of issues with it.

Ill check to make sure there are no clogs and then try my Atomic PETG to see if it has the same issues. Maybe inland PETG is just junk.

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

would suck if it is just crappy PETG. I just picked up a roll of Inland PETG Silver and having the same clogs as the black.

I did print about half a roll of black without any issues.