🔧 BUILD 1971 Nova - Work in Progress

General Information

1971 Nova - Insanity in Progress

I bought this Nova last year when I sold my mustang, I was a active member here when this was CSVT so all the info of my old car is still on this site. Some of you know me from other sites as well as some of the old CSVT members who are still around. I apologize in advance for being a little long winded.

I was looking to get back into a classic muscle car that I could restore and modify to my liking. I choose a Nova since they are cheap and my wife wanted it to be a chevy. I enjoy all makes/models domestic or import which is why I enjoy TCG.

Specs:
1971 2 Door Nova factory v8 auto

Engine
350 block 383 stroker
Cam - unknown (I have several cam cards from the previous owners not sure which one is installed)
Rods/pistons - unknown
Heads - stock
Edelbrock intake - unknown which model
Holley 750 double pumper

Trans
700R4
3200 Stall
Shift Kit - Jegs brand

Rearend
10 bolt 8.5
3:56 gears

I knew the car needed some work before I bought it....I just underestimated how bad some of it was going to be. When I got the car the owner I purchased it from had just primer bombed the car and splatter painted the trunk (was still fresh when I went to look at the car). I would have still bought the car but would have negotiated a better price, but hey live and learn. The guy I bought the car from purchased the car from an elderly couple in Ohio who had a binder of documentation which was a huge selling point to me. Unfortunately I didn't look closely to see that the receipts didn't have much specific information. So the documentation only shows dates and what parts were replaced not what they were replaced with (for the most part anyways.) Again no biggie.

The car had 3 paint jobs in it's life plus the primer the guy I bought the car from put on it. Under the primer was a Suzuki gold that was applied in 2002. (what a FUGLY ass color) under the gold was a red. Whenever the red was put on the car it also had extensive body filler applied but no rust or sheet metal repair, more on that later. Under the red was a factory correct blue. The cowl tag says the car should be Sandalwood, while I did find it on a few parts of the car this leads me to believe someone painted the car early on in it's life or worse someone swapped the vin and cowl tag to another car :dunno: . Also there were a few spots where Green was found, I'm assuming a donor car or junk yard parts replacement. To be honest with all the documentation I have it just confuses things even further. The car was also in a few fender benders, the worst being the passenger front fender.

In 2001 the whole suspension was replaced with stock equipment minus air shocks, this was also when the whole drive line was overhauled and the engine was turned into a 383 stroker. I'm just guessing and based on some info I've accumulated from Steves Nova Site SNS, everyone seems to agree this theoretical combo should be around 350-400hp 400+tq.

I drove the car for a few weeks and fixed some legal and safety equipment such as putting on the rear bumper, side mirrors and attaching the seat belts. The car actually drives pretty good, has some good low end torque and the trans shifts firm. These were all the reasons I purchased the car as I didn't want to blow the budget replacing the mechanical's right away while I concentrated on restoring the body and getting it in paint. I was originally hoping to have it in paint in early spring of this year. Currently it may see paint by spring summer of 2015. (crosses fingers)

Goals:
For now I want a nice cruiser that's got some decent hp/tq. I'd like to drive it around town and take it to a few cruises/car shows. During winter I always like to tinker and do upgrades.

My unrealistic dream goal would be to turn it into a pro-touring car. Sitting low on 18x10 or larger wheels. I would also drop in a LS series engine maybe a LQ4 on a tight budget or go wild with a LS3/6 variation. The car will stay an auto, I know some people won't understand that but I love a good auto as much as banging gears in a stick car.

Short term goals that are more realistic is to just restore the vehicle to good quality, I will keep the drivetrain as it is for now as it's in good shape and if anything blows up take it to the next level at that time (budget pending of course). The body will be fully repaired and painted by myself. It will be painted a blue (unsure of which specific color code at this time) but it will be a medium to dark hue.

Bottom line is all work will be done by me, in my garage with whatever tools I currently have or acquire. Hence the whole reason for purchasing this car.

Now to what's happened since I started work along with pics.

As I purchased it, as you can see the body doesn't look bad at all. Looking at it very throughly I could tell there was bondo/mud applied and I did notice some rust in the rear quarters and in the trunk area (which is common for these cars) I also noticed the body bushings were bad again another common problem with age.



IMG_1489 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1490 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


Engine Bay, looks can be decieving, the whole front accessory system is a redneck engineer mess along with the fan and rad shroud.
IMG_1487 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1503 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


IMG_1504 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

Pics of the interior, the seats are trashed and the carpet doesn't fit right as it's either a universal or not the correct for this make/model/year.
IMG_1499 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr





I'll break this up into a few posts.
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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
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Bolingbrook IL
You're committed now! My advice is get a gen 4 engine regardless of displacement and prepare for a hair dryer. Back it with a 4L80E and be done with it for a while.

I probably will throw a hair dryer at it at some point but for the near future I'd like to keep it N/A to simplify the swap. I know the 4.8 and 5.3's are stout and can take a beating with boost. I'm still wanting to throw a 6.0 in it and see what I can milk out out of it N/A. If I can take a 6.0 and punch it out and do heads/cam intake and get to 450+rwhp I may be perfectly happy with that for many years.

You still might need the throttle I would steer clear of dbw for ease of install and tuning
with boost. Also the firewall indent makes the bellhousing bolts so much easier.

Actually the indent is opposite, it moves into the engine bay not into the interior side of the car. I should have plenty of room with the new firewall to reach the trans bolts. I do want to stay clear of DBW if possible. I will be fabbing up a new pedal mount either way as I don't like the way the pedals are currently. The Gas/Brake pedals aren't in line with each other and the gas pedal was always at wierd angle.

Do a setup like this guys Nova. These guys LS swap everything lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0s-bU5PoDAA

I like what they did but I won't be going to that extreme.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
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Bolingbrook IL
Finally got some time in the garage, I started with the passenger firewall patch, I had to add in the middle section where the distributor would have gone. I then broke out the plasma cutter and got to work.


Here is the first patch with self taping screws to hold it in place while I started making the driver template.

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The pinch weld is too strong to bang flat against this patch and the patch is 16 gauge so it’s not the easiest to bend either. I need to think on this a bit, My first thoughts are to make another patch to connect the two and I may have to do that anyways if I run a 4l80e as I’m told everyone needs to make a new tunnel.

Here’s a shot from the inside, it’s hard to make out. You can also see the throttle pedal rigged to the cable.

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I then modified the driver template, I may end up keeping the bump out from where the pedal mount is. More contemplating and still more to work on for the driver side.

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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
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Bolingbrook IL
Started the driver side template

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I was sanding down the slag from the plasma cutter and the die grinder was spitting water out the exhaust. I’ve been pretty bad about draining the compressor these past few weeks so figured I should get that done before continuing.

Go to loosen the pitcock and the whole valve breaks off in the bottom of the compressor...

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So I took the motor and pump off the top and flipped the compressor on it’s side. Had to run to the hardware store to grab the right size tap. When I drilled the pitcock out the rest came out without damaging the threads. I still used the tap to chase the threads to make sure they where clean.

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So after spending most of the day fixing the damn compressor I was only able to do a very rough fit of the driver patch. 90% of all my tools are pneumatic so I can’t get shit done with the compressor down. I’m very thankful I got it all fixed in a few hours.

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Next week I am going to drop the steering box and disconnect the subframe, I must have banged my shins on the frame horns no less than 2 dozen times so I am just going to get it out of my way so I can work on the firewall comfortably.
 

Mr_Roboto

Doing the jobs nobody wants to
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Feb 4, 2012
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Nashotah, Wisconsin (AKA not Illinois)
I can't remember, are you planning on keeping the stock style stuff up front or going to an aftermarket R&P setup? At the very least, I'd be looking for a high ratio box to put back in since they're not pricey. Being a Camaro style box the locks are different so you should have a bunch of options around that.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
I can't remember, are you planning on keeping the stock style stuff up front or going to an aftermarket R&P setup? At the very least, I'd be looking for a high ratio box to put back in since they're not pricey. Being a Camaro style box the locks are different so you should have a bunch of options around that.

I'd like to do R&P but if I remember right I'd have to go with either a aftermarket front subframe or hack the stock subframe up to fit. I'm most likely going to just put in a new box. There are a couple of choices from 3rd Gen F Bodies, Jeep Cherokee's or the 86 monte carlo box. Most of the nova guys on SNS run the monte carlo box as it's around $80 from rock auto.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
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Bolingbrook IL
Finally back in the garage... started off by taking the subframe off so it would be easier to work on the firewall. Going to pressure wash it and then later repaint it.

Don’t mind the mess
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I took of my driver side patch so I could put in another patch to close out the inner cowl.

Template made up
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Mockup
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There were 2 drip indents (not sure if that’s the right terminology) that I needed to fix or else water would get trapped behind my panels. I had to slice them to remove some metal in order to pound them flat with a hammer/dolly.

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I then used rust converter and encapsulator on the inner cowl and weld through primer on my patch. While that was drying I removed the dash pad so when it’s time to weld I won’t be setting anything on fire.

It’s hard to see but someone had put a plastic cover over the dash, in this pic if you look near the A pillar you can see a piece that didn’t come off with the rest. The factory Nova emblem was still on the original pad hid under the cover.
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What the original pad condition was.
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All pulled
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I will scrap off all the old vinyl and padding off the dash pad later, this is just the dash frame.
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It will be a week or two again before anymore updates, I will be out of town this weekend hunting and with everything else going on lately I’m sure something else will come up.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
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Bolingbrook IL
Back at it, used the good weather last Friday to power wash the subframe and get all the funk off it that I didn’t do last time the frame was out.

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Yesterday I worked on the patch for the inner cowl, I butt welded the top and sides and flanged the patch for the bottom to be spot welded.

All in

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Now I need to work on getting the full patch to fit properly for the driver side. Still running into problems with the factory gas pedal mounting area. I may leave all this until I have the motor so I know if it’s dbw or dbc.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Got the driver side panel fitted up, took a lot of tweaking. Leaving the gas pedal bump out for now as I still don’t have the new motor. I am going to leave it screwed in place until I can mock up the transmission and see what needs clearance for bellhousing.

This was a solid 6-7 hours of work

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Next up is getting the brake, steering and wiper motor areas cutout and mocked up.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
It’s a bit dirty, the wiring harness looks like it was cut in several spots to make it quick pull out of the truck. The trans is from a 99 model year. The one that mated up to this motor had no reverse.

These are just sitting on my wheel dollies for now

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I now need to spend a bit of coin, need to buy a Holley 302-2 pan and motor mounts so I can mock up this motor/trans with my firewall modifications along with a hoist and engine stand so I can effectively work on this thing.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
What is an LQ4 exactly?

Truck version of the LS1, other main differences from the iron block is the cam, intake and accessories are different. It's a 6.0L, factory it's about 325hp and 360tq

getting serious. I'd build and cam the hell out of that motor and then spray the whole thing primer grey and start hustling people with your "stock rebuilt jasper motor"

Cam and headers for sure from a performance standpoint. It will also get a new oil pump, valve springs and perhaps a trunion upgrade. That is my budget plan, but I won't know more until I can take it apart a little and see if it's in good enough condition.

If it needs a rebuild or freshening up I'll have to look at how much I want to spend. Thoughts there are a standard rebuild, rebuild plus bumping the compression or changing heads/intake and the most wild is turning it into a 408.

Long term I do want to throw a turbo at it but right now I just want it in the car and able to run/drive for the lowest amount and effort spent.
 

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