🔧 BUILD 1971 Nova - Work in Progress

General Information

1971 Nova - Insanity in Progress

I bought this Nova last year when I sold my mustang, I was a active member here when this was CSVT so all the info of my old car is still on this site. Some of you know me from other sites as well as some of the old CSVT members who are still around. I apologize in advance for being a little long winded.

I was looking to get back into a classic muscle car that I could restore and modify to my liking. I choose a Nova since they are cheap and my wife wanted it to be a chevy. I enjoy all makes/models domestic or import which is why I enjoy TCG.

Specs:
1971 2 Door Nova factory v8 auto

Engine
350 block 383 stroker
Cam - unknown (I have several cam cards from the previous owners not sure which one is installed)
Rods/pistons - unknown
Heads - stock
Edelbrock intake - unknown which model
Holley 750 double pumper

Trans
700R4
3200 Stall
Shift Kit - Jegs brand

Rearend
10 bolt 8.5
3:56 gears

I knew the car needed some work before I bought it....I just underestimated how bad some of it was going to be. When I got the car the owner I purchased it from had just primer bombed the car and splatter painted the trunk (was still fresh when I went to look at the car). I would have still bought the car but would have negotiated a better price, but hey live and learn. The guy I bought the car from purchased the car from an elderly couple in Ohio who had a binder of documentation which was a huge selling point to me. Unfortunately I didn't look closely to see that the receipts didn't have much specific information. So the documentation only shows dates and what parts were replaced not what they were replaced with (for the most part anyways.) Again no biggie.

The car had 3 paint jobs in it's life plus the primer the guy I bought the car from put on it. Under the primer was a Suzuki gold that was applied in 2002. (what a FUGLY ass color) under the gold was a red. Whenever the red was put on the car it also had extensive body filler applied but no rust or sheet metal repair, more on that later. Under the red was a factory correct blue. The cowl tag says the car should be Sandalwood, while I did find it on a few parts of the car this leads me to believe someone painted the car early on in it's life or worse someone swapped the vin and cowl tag to another car :dunno: . Also there were a few spots where Green was found, I'm assuming a donor car or junk yard parts replacement. To be honest with all the documentation I have it just confuses things even further. The car was also in a few fender benders, the worst being the passenger front fender.

In 2001 the whole suspension was replaced with stock equipment minus air shocks, this was also when the whole drive line was overhauled and the engine was turned into a 383 stroker. I'm just guessing and based on some info I've accumulated from Steves Nova Site SNS, everyone seems to agree this theoretical combo should be around 350-400hp 400+tq.

I drove the car for a few weeks and fixed some legal and safety equipment such as putting on the rear bumper, side mirrors and attaching the seat belts. The car actually drives pretty good, has some good low end torque and the trans shifts firm. These were all the reasons I purchased the car as I didn't want to blow the budget replacing the mechanical's right away while I concentrated on restoring the body and getting it in paint. I was originally hoping to have it in paint in early spring of this year. Currently it may see paint by spring summer of 2015. (crosses fingers)

Goals:
For now I want a nice cruiser that's got some decent hp/tq. I'd like to drive it around town and take it to a few cruises/car shows. During winter I always like to tinker and do upgrades.

My unrealistic dream goal would be to turn it into a pro-touring car. Sitting low on 18x10 or larger wheels. I would also drop in a LS series engine maybe a LQ4 on a tight budget or go wild with a LS3/6 variation. The car will stay an auto, I know some people won't understand that but I love a good auto as much as banging gears in a stick car.

Short term goals that are more realistic is to just restore the vehicle to good quality, I will keep the drivetrain as it is for now as it's in good shape and if anything blows up take it to the next level at that time (budget pending of course). The body will be fully repaired and painted by myself. It will be painted a blue (unsure of which specific color code at this time) but it will be a medium to dark hue.

Bottom line is all work will be done by me, in my garage with whatever tools I currently have or acquire. Hence the whole reason for purchasing this car.

Now to what's happened since I started work along with pics.

As I purchased it, as you can see the body doesn't look bad at all. Looking at it very throughly I could tell there was bondo/mud applied and I did notice some rust in the rear quarters and in the trunk area (which is common for these cars) I also noticed the body bushings were bad again another common problem with age.



IMG_1489 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1490 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


Engine Bay, looks can be decieving, the whole front accessory system is a redneck engineer mess along with the fan and rad shroud.
IMG_1487 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1503 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


IMG_1504 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

Pics of the interior, the seats are trashed and the carpet doesn't fit right as it's either a universal or not the correct for this make/model/year.
IMG_1499 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr





I'll break this up into a few posts.
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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,782
2,489
Bolingbrook IL
Looks dirty but not sludged up. That's good. Just recent lack of maintenance. Much better that life long neglect.

I'm thinking that the oil pan was leaking so much that they stopped changing the oil later in life and just kept adding oil (at least I hope they did). Again I'll know more when I can flip the motor and pull the pan.
[MENTION=148]HILROD[/MENTION]

With those dirty dingo slider mounts, do you still need the sbc engine mounts? I didn't think about this earlier but the truck mounts won't connect to my frame stands and I sold the old motor with the old motor mounts attached.

I have to double check the hooker/holley fixed mounts as I believe they take place of the original engine mounts and connect to the frame stands.
 

HILROD

TCG Elite Member
Oct 22, 2007
1,680
932
ELGIN
Yeah you need the stock mounts. Depending on the dirty dingo parts you might have to redrill the frame stands to move them up. The later ones stagger the holes. Basically the thickness of the adapter makes the engine sit higher. The engine side mounts are cheap for most GMs. Way stronger than most aftermarket ones.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,782
2,489
Bolingbrook IL
[MENTION=4698]Mr_Roboto[/MENTION] if your not using those mounts let me know and I will come grab them.


Only a little time in the garage today, I did get the motor flipped and the pan pulled. Amazingly I can still see cross hatches on all the cylinders.

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Is the cam supposed to show wear like this?

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Pic of the nasty wind age tray and pan

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I then threw the pan back on for now as my garage is pretty dirty. I will take the pan back off at another time to clean it up.

If the weather holds up I will hook the subframe back up and test fit the motor/trans and then pull it back out to finish up the firewall.


Still a dirty bitch

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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,782
2,489
Bolingbrook IL
Updates may be few and far between for the next few months. Will be doing some house stuff that will put the car on the back burner for a bit.

I got a new toy this week specifically for the wiper motor mounting. I can see this being handy for so much more. Nutsert tool with multiple size nutserts. This thing is kickass!

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So here it is being put to use.

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Nice flush fit

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I also got these this week.

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So I went to put them on and hopefully I have them in the right orientation. With them bolted up this way I had to take the a/c mount off, with the power steering already off I need to see if it’s the same problem on the driver side.

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Both plates are on, should have my original sbc engine mounts back in a week or so, then I can toss this and the trans back in and make sure no additional modifications are needed to the firewall/trans tunnel.

I threw the subframe back on the car. Looks familiar...

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I then tried to clean up the oil pan, it needs to be clean so I can mark the depth in the sub-frame and if this one gets cut up and welded... well it needs to be clean. I used a few stiff brushes and de-greaser but it’s just not cutting it. I may have to get a plastic tub and soak this bitch. Either that or wait for a mildy warm day and hit it with the pressure washer.

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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,782
2,489
Bolingbrook IL
Back at it, needed some garage time before more home projects start up.

Grabbed the oil pan that was sitting in the driveway for the past few months. Sprayed it down with degreaser again (still needs a better cleaning). Threw it back on the motor and flipped the motor on the stand so it was right side up. Man is it one heavy sumbitch!!!

Then threw on the sbc motor mounts, had to use a thick washer as the sbc mounts had a bump out.

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Since these have different slots I wasn’t sure which one was stock location. Will find out more when I test fit it.
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I then realized I don’t have the trans bolts, will need to order those up this week. Holding off stabbing the motor back in till I can do the motor/trans together.

Moved back to the firewall, needed to get the brake booster mounted. This was a lot of measuring, double/triple checking to make sure the holes I was cutting were in the right location. All mounted up.

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Then took off the driver firewall panel so I could bead roll the area around the brake booster. It is heavy and was flexing the firewall a bit. This s the first mock-up, going to think on it some before I bend it up.

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I rolled a few test beads to see which one I liked the best and would provide the most strength. This is the same gauge steel the firewall is made out of. Think this will be the winner.

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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,782
2,489
Bolingbrook IL
Finished the bead roll on the driver side firewall panel for the brake booster. It isn’t perfect but it isn’t horrible. I then mounted the brake booster and master cylinder.

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Then bolted up the trans to the motor and then stabbed both in the car. Man what a PITA doing it solo. Had to flip the SBC motor mounts as it just wasn’t lining up. Soon as they were flipped it fit, but just barely.

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Looks like plenty of room

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This shows how low the oil pan hangs below the subframe. I am still very tempted to buy the Holley 302-2 pan.

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Trans pan hangs a little low too.

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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,782
2,489
Bolingbrook IL
Have to make 2 posts, photo uploads wouldn’t accept anymore pics.

I then bolted up the power steering pump, tensioner and the front code support to see how it all fit.

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Power steering lines run right into the upper control arm. Going to need to figure out what to do here later.

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I might have to throw the fenders and hood on as it looks damn close. It should fit fine but something could be wrong, better to find out now than later.

Once everything has been mocked up I can pull the motor back out and weld up the firewall. I do need to do a minor adjustment to the trans tunnel/driver floorpan.
 

Great White Drake

You used to call me on my cell phone
Jun 23, 2010
6,099
8,274
Man, that pan is not good that low. I’d change that now before you get too far. Everything else looks good. I have less space between my firewall and heads and was still able to get a bolt back there for harness ground and sensors. I also have dd’s but they’re “sliders”
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,782
2,489
Bolingbrook IL
Man, that pan is not good that low. I’d change that now before you get too far. Everything else looks good. I have less space between my firewall and heads and was still able to get a bolt back there for harness ground and sensors. I also have dd’s but they’re “sliders”



This is all mock up, it’s either getting the 302-2 pan or asking Hilrod to cut down and weld the stocker for me.

I’m thinking the motor/trans will be in and out at least 3 more times before its set in for good.
 

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