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Old 08-27-2011, 08:04 PM   #1
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Default How to install a Killer Chiller in Your Marauder

Wow. Easier than I thought!
FYI, the kit for on 03-04 Cobra is EXACTLY correct for a Marauder.
Im a few weeks from finishing the changes to the car, so no IAT's to report now.

Step 1: Have the Freon evacuated
Next:
Remove the bumper: (Grill, Headlights and side lights need to be removed)


Next: Remove the Bumper impact strip. There are 3 rivets holding it in place, and 2 integrated clips that wrap around the sides. Just drill the rivets out.


Next, remove the Metal thingy held on by the 8 bolts:


Cut out the center brace and the KC fits in with 1/4" to spare:


Make a simple aluminum bracket and place padding between the back of the KC and the Metal. Be sure the AC fittings/Hoses are on and tight at this point!
I chose to offset the KC to the drivers side so the hoses had sufficient room to make a bend.


Next remove this line from the equation:



When you are here:


Install this:


Then Install this on the other fitting:



You cant get the hoses or fittings goofed up. Everything is labeled, there are 2 different hoses and its cake to figure out.

Next Insulate!



Then you hook the Outlet of the Heat exchanger to the inlet of the KC, and the Outlet of the KC to the inlet of the Intercooler. This stuff is all in the instructions found here:
http://www.killerchiller.com/cobra_i...ns_03Cobra.pdf

The instructions tell you how to recharge the system with tools from Harbor Freight. From all my research, use ES12a to recharge the system with the proper PAG oil.

Ill post temp results when the car is running again.
Well worth the money, hope this helps!
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Old 08-27-2011, 08:22 PM   #2
 
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Subscribing.....
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:34 PM   #3
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Forgot to mention I left the Frozen Boost Heat exchanger in place.
It is recommended to switch back to an OEM Cobra HE or eliminate it altogether.

Reason I left it is because I want to see what my IAT2's are with it there.
When you leave the HE, IAT2's will be higher than if you didnt have an HE at all.
Since I drive the car regularly in Spring and Fall, the KC may not even be necessary.
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Old 08-28-2011, 08:57 PM   #4
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Sweet info. I was looking into this some months ago when I was planning my Eaton swap. Looks like I may have to do this mod next year.


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Old 08-28-2011, 10:58 PM   #5
 
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Gonna be very interesting to see what kinda #'s you come up with Ive just kinda been waiting before I make this purchse to see how well it works. Heck my car sat almost half the summer it just wasnt any fun to drive when it was over 90*. Kinda sucks when you know what youre car can do but because of heat it feels like about 75-100 horse less not to metion how hard it is on the motor!
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Old 08-28-2011, 11:12 PM   #6
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No.reason to wait for me to post results, just ask the hundreds of happy mustang owners with much.hotter engine compartments.
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zack View Post
Forgot to mention I left the Frozen Boost Heat exchanger in place.
It is recommended to switch back to an OEM Cobra HE or eliminate it altogether.

Reason I left it is because I want to see what my IAT2's are with it there.
When you leave the HE, IAT2's will be higher than if you didnt have an HE at all.
Since I drive the car regularly in Spring and Fall, the KC may not even be necessary.
I'm confused. Wouldn't the combination of the Type 100 HE and KC be a more effective cooling system for the Eaton than a KC and OEM Cobra HE? (The thought being, if a little is good...)
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:28 AM   #8
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Keeping a heat exchanger will actually heat up the IC fluid.
Think about it.

So if you do keep one, the smaller the better.
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:24 AM   #9
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How exactly does a Killer Chiller work?
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Old 08-29-2011, 12:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
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How exactly does a Killer Chiller work?
It taps into the cold line of the AC system, and routes that line through a contained unit where the IC fluid passes through as well.

No more 150 degree IAT's on hot days.
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:20 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zack View Post
Keeping a heat exchanger will actually heat up the IC fluid.
Think about it.

So if you do keep one, the smaller the better.
Got it! The extra fluid volume in the HE actually ends up being a heat sink, makes sense now that I think it through.

So, is there an impact on the cabin cooling?
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC Cheesehead View Post
Got it! The extra fluid volume in the HE actually ends up being a heat sink, makes sense now that I think it through.

So, is there an impact on the cabin cooling?
From all the testimonials I've read, if you use es12a the cabin cooling is unaffected. I will be using es12a.
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:17 AM   #13
 
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Let us no if you have any dripping problems with the H/E in the loop.
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:21 PM   #14
 
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Ordered mine last week. I ordered the drag race option. Went today and picked up a set of AC gauges at Harbor Freight, Labor Day sale price of $49.99 ($10 off) plus my sale flyer had another 20% off (another $10 off) so I figured $40 for a set of gauges I couldn't go wrong.
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Old 09-03-2011, 11:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordNut View Post
Ordered mine last week. I ordered the drag race option. Went today and picked up a set of AC gauges at Harbor Freight, Labor Day sale price of $49.99 ($10 off) plus my sale flyer had another 20% off (another $10 off) so I figured $40 for a set of gauges I couldn't go wrong.
Did you pay full price? There is a group buy on SVTsnake.com.
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:29 AM   #16
 
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He gave me a discount, but didn't say anything about the GB.

Discount price to post promotional pictures of my install...

I gotta call him back, he never mentioned an additional discount for gauge delete, which I don't want or need since I already have one.
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