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Old 05-12-2013, 10:08 PM   #1
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Default Your Opinions on a 351w setup

Soooo just wondering your guys opinions on an engine and tranny setup.

1975 351 windsor
trw L2456 pistons 10.0: 1
comp cams 35-330-3 cam kit

(Cam Style:Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:2,500-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:244
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:244
Duration at 050 inch Lift:244 int./244 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:292
Advertised Exhaust Duration:292
Advertised Duration:292 int./292 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.518 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.518 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.518 int./0.518 exh.)

heads redone with new springs and seals and valve job
ford motor sport oil pan and dip stick
melling high volume high pres. oil pump. arp oil pump drive shaft.

1975 c-4 alto red racing clutches
alto red race band for 2nd and reverse transgo shift kit
tci 3000 stall converter

Annnnddddd would these be nice for said engine? Edelbrock SB Ford Cylinder Heads
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:10 PM   #2
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And any idea about the safe amount of power with this crap? Like OK to handle some boost?
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:11 PM   #3
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drop windsor
acquire cleveland

then do the stuff to it...
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:14 PM   #4
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Meh Cleveland = harder to find parts and more $ don't they?

Oh and a 750 DP on top of the engine
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:48 PM   #5
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I don't know... then again you could also try to find a Ford 400...
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:25 PM   #6
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probably looking around 325-350 real world hp the heads will def help alot 351`s make torque do me personally id keep the stall a hair lower like 25-2700 to take advantage of it
i would convert it over to hyd roller for sure and if your running the stock heads w just mild porting run a dual pattern cam the stock heads flow like crap on the exhaust side the higher duration on the exhaust side will help it breathe
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:33 PM   #7
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Hmmmm very interesting. The heads on it are stock with no porting I think. That's why I was thinking some nice heads'll help it breath a little better. Very very interesting though. Trying to teach myself about this crap slowly but surely
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:13 AM   #8
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ive built a ton of sbf motors both street and race stuff the biggest hitch with making power on them is the exhaust side even with aftermarket heads its still an issue not as bad as stock but still a problem i always run a dual pattern cam on street sbf motors for that reason.
292 duration is alot for a street motor what is your usage for the car i may be able to help lead u in the right direction on the cam setup if i know a bit more about the setup and what your gonna use it for so that u end up with what u want instead of something your not happy with or has horrible street manners
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:21 AM   #9
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Its the engine in the blue car in my sig thats been giving me headaches ever since I've had it. And the cars not really street friendly it sees the streets not very often at all locked rear end strictly drag suspension tiny fuel cell no comforts at all. Its an old wheelstander car IIRC.

Kinda planning on tossing a set of twin SC's on it. But thats when I end up finding what I want within a reasonable price range and work on fabricating it all up. Just want it to go as fast as possible without going crazy spending all my money. Was in the high 12's when I finally got it to the track but then it started having problems which I'm working on right now
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:23 PM   #10
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step 1 i would def swap to hyd roller
find a cam in the 286/292 duration range 108-110 lsa wider if u plan on going boosted maybe 112 and around .550 duration
the heads u posted have specific springs and parts on them whatever cam u choose the springs have to match for it to work properly
any aluminum head will help u a ton as the iron heads retain alot of heat and an aftermarket head will allow u to run more timing and run cooler as well
as having a much more efficient shaped combustion chamber
going with a cam like i suggested and a set of edelbrock rpm heads with a 62cc chamber will easily net u 400hp and around 400 ft lbs and make for a nice strong running car
the roller setup will help it make alot more power under the curve and reduce fristion losses in the valvetrain and be much more reliable.
careful selection of your parts and and assembly of the engine paying close attention to rings gaps will ensure you have a nice trouble free engine that lives under alot of abuse
i would also suggest runnign arp rod bolts and main bolts since the 351 needs as much help with stability in the bottom end as possible and the factory bolts are pretty week
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:24 PM   #11
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i actually work in carol stream so if u need assistance i have engine assembly tools degree wheel valvespring micrometers and all that shit here at work so just let me know
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:10 PM   #12
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Very very cool man. So I can pickup a hydraulic roller cam kit in the range you suggested that comes with the lifters and springs needed and swap them with the springs on the heads I end up getting?

Changing a camshaft is pretty straightforward right? Haven't dug deep into engines yet. Furthest I've gotten is changing head gaskets so far. I'll pull out my engine building books after typing this to try and see about how to go about changing them.

I'm pretty sure they went with ARP bolts through the whole engine but not 100% sure on it?

Thanks for all the help your giving me man. Its really appreciated
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:55 PM   #13
 
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don't forget your going to need a 351 specific dizzy, intake, exhaust and bracket setup to run your accessories; so remember to put all that in the budget.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:57 PM   #14
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got the MSD dizzy. On my 2nd intake. Got my hookers on there with some "help". I have an alternator setup on the car with 1 belt going to it. No other things belt run. I've only had this thing to the track once and was fairly disappointed in its quickness before it started giving me problems again
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:00 PM   #15
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Just figured the heads were really killling it and wasn't sure about if the guts of the engine was good. I bought it off a guy who rebuilds racing trannys for Fords who got it as a trade for a tranny? He built the tranny in the car too
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:01 PM   #16
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And like I said want to go even faster so the twin blower setup for hopefully around $1200 will help that without blowing it up too quickly
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:03 PM   #17
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Blue blue and more blue (and shitty quality pictures)
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:35 PM   #18
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hr...view/make/ford

This looking good?
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:57 PM   #19
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thats acutally the exact cam i was going to suggest to you. im a huge howards fan they make great stuff and its reasonable and flat out works
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:59 PM   #20
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Very cool. Now to keep on talking to that guy with the heads see what he's willing to do with price. I owe you a drink sometime for this help I really appreciate it
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:37 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RebelGTP View Post
I don't know... then again you could also try to find a Ford 400...
which is still a cleveland...
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:55 PM   #22
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@boogeyman what do you think of AFR heads for SBF's? I'm applying to a job where if I get it I may have more free time to possibly pull the engine and play around with it and spend some of my hard earned dollars on it so figuring that cam you said was good then better heads because I have a blower I shall be putting on the engine hopefully so figure I need it to try and be able to keep up with the added air jammed into it
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