Smug's car audio build thread. Dis gonna be good
- Thread starter smug
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Ya, in to follow along. I know nothing about this shit other than what I used to do....which was browse the crutchfield catalog and point at clarion head units
Why not go for an android auto or apple head unit or something like that?
Changing out stock for aftermarket headunit is not as popular as it once was. Aftermarket just does not look right for one. My factory radio is really good and everything in the car runs through the radio in some way so replacing it with aftermarket would be a giant pain in the ass and totally not worth it.
The factory radio itself is touch screen and there is a separate I -Mid display above it. I already have a hard drive, navigation, pandora, some honda app, cd, usb, aux, xm, fm, am, memory card slot, lane watch, back up camera, all the fuel data, phone book, bluetooth, active noise cancelling, vehicle settings, steering wheel controls, voice commands, ect.
It would be impossible to make all that work with an aftermarket unit
I got started way later then I wanted to tonight because I had to stop at the eye doc for my new glasses and a couple trips to the hard ware store. I built a shelf under the rear package tray for the amp, processor, and line driver. One of my main goals is to keep this car 100% factory function with this stereo. I didn't want to totally kill my trunk space or remove spare tire for the amp. My luck I would have a flat tire.
As seen in the pic below, I made these black metal brackets out of some flat stock that I bolted to the car. I drilled some holes through the brackets so I can bolt the board to the metal brackets.
This is the board I made real quick. Six mounting holes drilled and I counter sunk the bolt heads in the 3/4 MDF so they bolt heads were not in the way of the equipment.
Then I screwed everything to the board and done!!
I tend to over build stuff and the shelf is not going any where. I was laying on my back in the trunk and I could do a pull up and it didn't even budge.
As seen in the pic below, I made these black metal brackets out of some flat stock that I bolted to the car. I drilled some holes through the brackets so I can bolt the board to the metal brackets.
This is the board I made real quick. Six mounting holes drilled and I counter sunk the bolt heads in the 3/4 MDF so they bolt heads were not in the way of the equipment.
Then I screwed everything to the board and done!!
I tend to over build stuff and the shelf is not going any where. I was laying on my back in the trunk and I could do a pull up and it didn't even budge.
I just want to talk about the AV Bit IN module for a minuet.
Normally this end of the amp had all the RCA jacks and some of other junk. The AV Bit in replaces this with two wires. Click, click, done. Its all digital and I can connect multiple amps together in a chain this you have the Bit IN module in all the amps.
Pretty cool and saves a lot of BS wiring.
Normally this end of the amp had all the RCA jacks and some of other junk. The AV Bit in replaces this with two wires. Click, click, done. Its all digital and I can connect multiple amps together in a chain this you have the Bit IN module in all the amps.
Pretty cool and saves a lot of BS wiring.
The past two days has pretty much been wiring.
Cool battery terminal. That red square goes on the battery post and i can connect three extra wires coming off the back side it it. The best part is that this is the only one I found where you can still use the stock battery cable with out cutting the end off to expose bare wire. You can see the stock battery terminal and cable on the side.
100 amp fuse. I made that black bracket because zip ties under the hood holding high current electrical stuff is not cool anymore
Just showing off some of the wiring in progress in the trunk
This is were the factory amp bypass harness plugs into the stock harness at the right kick panel.
Amp ground to a factory bolt and the paint has been sanded off.
One front door with the speakers installed
Both doors and completely sealed and deadened inside and out.
Cool battery terminal. That red square goes on the battery post and i can connect three extra wires coming off the back side it it. The best part is that this is the only one I found where you can still use the stock battery cable with out cutting the end off to expose bare wire. You can see the stock battery terminal and cable on the side.
100 amp fuse. I made that black bracket because zip ties under the hood holding high current electrical stuff is not cool anymore
Just showing off some of the wiring in progress in the trunk
This is were the factory amp bypass harness plugs into the stock harness at the right kick panel.
Amp ground to a factory bolt and the paint has been sanded off.
One front door with the speakers installed
Both doors and completely sealed and deadened inside and out.
Just a back side shot of the speaker
BTW the tweeter fit right into the stock locations at the sail panels near the mirror. They look stock and its crazy.
Hey who's car is that?
Just showing a run of speaker wire down the drivers side of the car.
Pass side has the bypass harness and a few other things
I started putting interior back in the car and turned everything on today. So far so good!
I need to finish the sound deadener in the rear seat and trunk area.
BTW the tweeter fit right into the stock locations at the sail panels near the mirror. They look stock and its crazy.
Hey who's car is that?
Just showing a run of speaker wire down the drivers side of the car.
Pass side has the bypass harness and a few other things
I started putting interior back in the car and turned everything on today. So far so good!
I need to finish the sound deadener in the rear seat and trunk area.
Here is a screen shot of the sound processor software.
All high end companies seem to have some sort of processor on the market now, Audison, JL, Helix, the older JBL MS8, ect. They all seem to do the same thing but are all very different at the same time.
I run my front sound stage active with no rear speakers. Running active means that there are no passive crossovers in my system. Every speaker is on its own channel of the amp and this allows me to tune each speaker by themselves. For example I can shut off every speaker in the car with the Bit Ten software, except for the one speaker I want to adjust and have at it.
The programs allows me to adjust everything from time delay down to the millisecond , 31 band EQ, crossovers, slopes, filter types, and it just goes on and on.
As you can see this is a little more in depth then setting some treble and bass.
All high end companies seem to have some sort of processor on the market now, Audison, JL, Helix, the older JBL MS8, ect. They all seem to do the same thing but are all very different at the same time.
I run my front sound stage active with no rear speakers. Running active means that there are no passive crossovers in my system. Every speaker is on its own channel of the amp and this allows me to tune each speaker by themselves. For example I can shut off every speaker in the car with the Bit Ten software, except for the one speaker I want to adjust and have at it.
The programs allows me to adjust everything from time delay down to the millisecond , 31 band EQ, crossovers, slopes, filter types, and it just goes on and on.
As you can see this is a little more in depth then setting some treble and bass.
The wiring looks great. I really wish i had the patience for that
Thanks! I could have went a step further and wrapped all the wires but I do not have that much patience.
My wiring kid of makes a giant square box in my car with the way it was routed. Starts in the pass kick panel area and runs down the pass side of the car into the trunk where it goes into the line driver. From there is goes through the processor and the amp. After the amp the sound goes back up the drivers side where both doors are fed. The big power wire actually runs down the center of the car under the console until the hits the rear seat and then runs towards the drivers side of the car and up into the amp.
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