6.0 powerstroke preventative maintenence

GTPpower

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It was clean under the carpet by the gromet. I didn't have any concerns there at all.

Upper radiator hose was kind of soft after the drive, so I will have them replace the cap today.

I shut it off and restarted it 3 times right after the test drive. No problems at all. It fired right up.

This Friday/Saturday, it's supposed to get down to about 35*, so I'm going to try and go back early in the morning when it's cold and see how it starts.
 

GTPpower

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They called me back. Raised their offer by $1000, but we are still about $4k short of where I want to be. They are putting in new batteries, fixed the blower motor resistor, and putting on a new radiator cap.

Now, on to the good stuff...I called the previous owner, and he knew quite a bit about the 6.0. It was basically just used to pull a 35' camper. He bought it with 62k miles on it about 4 years ago, and now it's at 101k.

He changed oil every 5k miles with Rotella synthetic. Fuel filters were also changed every 5k miles.

A couple months ago, the egr quit working. He said it started blowing black smoke out the tail pipe and lost power. So, he just replaced the valve with a new one.

The ficm was replaced about 2 years ago along with an oil pressure sensor. And he had the coolant flushed a year ago.

He used a fuel additive about every other tank.

He said fuel mileage was typically 17-18 unloaded on the highway, and about 12 pulling on flat. In the hills, it was about 8.

I was pretty impressed. Sounds to me like he took good care of it.
 

GTPpower

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The only thing that really scared me, was he said he always plugged it in when it got below 40*. He said it used to stumble for a few seconds when it got cold...but I'm not real sure if he was using the glow plugs properly.

Is there an easy way to check if the glow plugs are working correctly?
 

guspech750

Guspech Superdriller
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The only thing that really scared me, was he said he always plugged it in when it got below 40*. He said it used to stumble for a few seconds when it got cold...but I'm not real sure if he was using the glow plugs properly.

Is there an easy way to check if the glow plugs are working correctly?



We always plug in all of our diesels at about 40* and lower. They just fire right up and run nice and smooth as far as diesels go.
 

DEEZUZ

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stiction is when the spool valve atop the injector sticks. high pressure oil is forced into this tiny orifice to operate the injector. this happens over time when the spool valves get a build up on them and the solenoids cannot overcome the stuck valve until the unit warms up but eventually the valve will seize. Factor in oil thats as thick as syrup when cold, trying to get down into a orifice thats a few thou bigger than a hair.... your gunna have a bad time...

the additives will more than likely work IF they are used early enough and used every oil change. rev-x is about $40 a bottle though, and I believe you need 2 per oil change.
 

GTPpower

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Swung by this afternoon when the dealer was closed. I crawled underneath, and noticed that there is an oil leak somewhere. Looks to be in the rear main seal area. But, the oil pan and drain plug seem to be leaking a little too.

I did some searching, and it sounds like oil leaks aren't that common on them. Unless it's on 03. But, this is an 05. Are there any common places for oil leaks? And how hard are they to fix?
 

DEEZUZ

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Their called the 6Leaker for a reason. It's never as simple as a front or rear main seal. Oil cooler leaks, HPOP cover leaks, Rocker boxes leak, there's an upper and lower oil pan seal. But the most common which is the most expensive is the bed plate seals. To fix that it's a motor out and your opening up the entire bottom end and exposing the crank bearings. Front cover leaks also very common.
 

P40E

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[MENTION=340]Eagle[/MENTION] , I would explain about your suspension woes . Or maybe it was your hubs ?

Op , if there is any chance , try to find out when the last high pressure pump was replaced or if the injectors have already been done . Also would check for oil around the c.a.c clamps. And check to see what the coolant looks like or smells .

The other easy way to see if you getting any glow plug draw is to watch the gauge on the dash at key on engine off . Or go check right off the battery with an voltmeter . It will pull the voltage down. You won't know the amperage , but you'll see a voltage drop . This would be best in cold Temps to see though.
 

DEEZUZ

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Not sure on fords but on vt's in commercial vehicles there is a relay mounted that feeds both glow plug harnesses . You can get an amp draw right there on each harness.

Has absolutely nothing to do with glow plugs. They start fine, the concern is the runability when cold. Stiction, which in turn is a misfire leads to smoke, romping, etc.

These truck are smart unlike the VT. These will have a code and CEL if one glow plug fails the tests.
 

GTPpower

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Jun 5, 2012
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Their called the 6Leaker for a reason. It's never as simple as a front or rear main seal. Oil cooler leaks, HPOP cover leaks, Rocker boxes leak, there's an upper and lower oil pan seal. But the most common which is the most expensive is the bed plate seals. To fix that it's a motor out and your opening up the entire bottom end and exposing the crank bearings. Front cover leaks also very common.

Ha. I always thought the 6leaker referred to the head gaskets.

So, I guess until it would need studs put in, I should forget about fixing any oil leaks. Can the bed plate seals be fixed without pulling the motor or the cab?

Also, does the trans need pulled to replace the rear main?
 
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