🔧 BUILD NOMIEZVR4's Eventual MKIV Supra build

General Information

Picked up this car on Dec 14, 2020...WOW its already been over a year! I cant believe it. Its a 94 Targa original auto twin turbo. R-Title from previous owner. I've been so busy with life and other things(cars) I don't even have a list where I have all the details about this car in 1 place. Now this thread will be it.

So as mentioned 94 MKIV
Original TT
Automatic with 4k Stall converter
103XXX miles on the chassis
Black Interior
Car was repainted Viper Red prior to my ownership originally was renaissance red

The Good
Standalone ECU- aem v1
No name single turbo. Unsure of exhaust manifold, guessing PHR Torque? Its a log style
FMIC
HKS SSQV
Intake filter
Greddy EBC
FIC 780cc Injectors with aftermarket fuel rail
3" turboback exhaust- unsure of brand
Tien Coilovers
Sound system
Boost/Volt gauges
Wbo2 gauge
20" Enkei wheels
I think those are the major mechanical modifications. Not sure if OEM fuel pump or aftermarket. Tuned to just over 400whp

The car runs decent, tuned on 93 starts up every time and runs consistently for the most part with no major hiccups in driveability. Cosmetically its got a TRD style hood and rear spoiler, Bomex skirts and I believe a knock-off Ridox front bumper. Also has updated tail lamps I believe and chromed version headlamps. The front/rear spats came with the car, I have not put them on yet and I probably wont till I address the cosmetics.

The Bad
The auto trans is moody. Until and unless it doesn't get warmed up while idling for a good 10-15 minutes prior to driving, it doesn't like shifting out of 1st. I've checked trans fluid levels and it looks clean and is leveled. Sometimes on cold starts it shoots out a small puff of blue smoke. Its got some minor fluid leaks.

The Plan
I'm a simple guy, I didn't have grand plans for this car. I like to buy cars to drive them, IDGAF about buying cars and storing them for value. Life is too short for that. With that being said, Originally I wanted to have an OEM motor, 550-600whp single turbo manual supra. Emphasis was on having the best soundtrack the 2jz has to offer. The car would be a fair weather summer street car, focused on top down spirited driving. No drag racing goals, no autocross aspirations. Since this car is a R-Title and I'm trying to keep it budget friendly, I decided on a cd009 setup. I got a quote from Grannas for his t56 swap kit and it was close to 10k and it wasn't the top of the line spec'd out setup either. Disclaimer, Grannas products are amazing, i just didn't want to spend the coin. So I settled for a cd009 which is essentially a 350z 6 speed manual transmission.

Since the trans is the most painful part of the car currently, I found a deal for a cd009 and purchased the following:

-2005 G35 revised trans
-CBF cd009 shifter
-Colins 2jz to cd009 adapter plate
-A340 auto Flexplate with spacer
-Arp flywheel bolts
-Colins Stage 5 twin disk clutch 850tq
-TOB, 350z clutch fork, pivot ball, slave cylinder

That settles the drivetrain aspect of the car for the time being.

Regarding the soundtrack and power setup, Ideally I wanted a RPS manifold and Borg Warner turbo. The RPS turbo manifold has long been discontinued. So whatever is available, is used and typically has lots of miles on it and may have been repaired previously due to cracks and other wear and tear. Plus they had this issue of boost creep. And since supra tax is a real thing, they are very expensive now too. All those factors combined made my decision a little easier and I decided I would look for something else that will still sound good but without all the other baggage. After doing lots of research, i finalized my options down to 2 choices: Sp f1 and future fab. After watching videos and looking at prices, (both were going to be built on order) I decided on the future fab, it was this video that swayed my decision in the end, but both the FF and spf1 sound incredible.



Fortunately the Borg Warner Turbo's are still available so I went ahead an purchased it. s366 original cast wheel, t4 divided hotside and v-band outlet. More on this later. For the time being, this thread will focus on the auto to manual swap then the turbo swap followed by the cosmetics. To start things off I'll post some pictures prior to my purchase that the previous owner shared with me along with some pics under my ownership. Thanks and enjoy!

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NOMIEZVR4

TCG Elite Member
May 6, 2014
2,036
4,006
Chicago
Screenshot_20220128-200925.png


willizm willizm
That's what I'm going with..rather what I went with. It came included with the trans. It's good, not as crisp as the serial9, but definitely no slouch either. As you can see, the whole mechanism is held on by 2 bolts so removing or installing is pretty straightforward. For my application, the shifter rod is actually moved to the hole closer to the pivot mechanism. Reverse lockout is also maintained.
 
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NOMIEZVR4

TCG Elite Member
May 6, 2014
2,036
4,006
Chicago
Can you post the shifter you think you’re going with? The cd009 is a very strong and worth while trans. Honestly I went t56 because as you said it seems to impact the value the most. I think people see the cd009 as the “cheap” alternative although there is nothing wrong with going that route, it’s just a perception thing.

My biggest gripe of the whole thing is the shifter makes or breaks the setup and the first one I had was the sikky and it sucked. Bolts would loosen up and then make the shift way sloppy. Had to drop the trans to tighten them back up. Big PiTA. I went with the magnum f with the direct shifter and it’s 100% better
Another buddy of mine is going to do the exact same thing. he hates his current sikky shifter and wants to get the Magnum f for that exact reason.
 

willizm

Very Nice, Very Evil
TCG Premium
May 13, 2009
12,837
10,167
The Woodlands, TX
View attachment 111169

willizm willizm
That's what I'm going with..rather what I went with. It came included with the trans. It's good, not as crisp as the serial9, but definitely no slouch either. As you can see, the whole mechanism is held on by 2 bolts so removing or installing is pretty straightforward. For my application, the shifter rod is actually moved to the hole closer to the pivot mechanism. Reverse lockout is also maintained.
Yeah that shifter should serve you well.
 

NOMIEZVR4

TCG Elite Member
May 6, 2014
2,036
4,006
Chicago
This past week I got around to getting started on the biggest issue this car has, the auto trans. I purchased pedal parts from the local toyota dealer for the 3rd pedal and with the holiday season in full swing I didn't waste any time. Also purchased a MC and SC while I was at it.

First order of business was assembling the clutch pedal assembly that I got from the dealer..it came bagged in about 20-30 pieces..after putting it all together this was the result. Master cylinder just mocked on.
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This was the starting point
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Previous owner ran wiring and hoses thru the area. I drilled the top hole before taking this picture btw.
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First task was to get rid of all that stuff
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Got the proper drill bits and holesaw and went to work, 2 hrs later this was the result. I had to cut away some more insulation before I was able to get the pedal in place. This was pretty painful, all in all with drilling the hole in the firewall then mounting the pedal it took a few hours. A few hours on my head backwards in the footwell was not fun.
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Testing to make sure the master fits where its supposed to.. Check
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End result. I swapped the brake pedal also. the auto brake pedal is twice the size of the manual, you can't really keep it when you go manual.
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So this is the 1st half of the work that needs to be done on the inside of the car for the swap. The next portion will be removing the auto shifter and related stuff.

This past week I ordered the trans mount, diff adapter and driveshaft so now I have 100% of the parts needed to get this swap started. I'm hoping this week to yank the motor/trans out, reseal the motor while its out, mate the 6 speed and throw it back in. Wish me luck. Wont have the DS for another 2 weeks so the car will be inop for 2 weeks but I dont mind, were coming up on winter in chicago, I wont lose out on any prime driving time anyhow. I'll post pictures as I make progress.
 

NOMIEZVR4

TCG Elite Member
May 6, 2014
2,036
4,006
Chicago
Thats awesome, the biggest PITA of doing this whole conversion was trying to worm my fat ass under the dash to cut that hole and get everything mounted up. Glad you got through the biggest headache.
yeah it was definitely painful. Coming up on my upper 30's, sitting on your head for hours at a time can't be good
 
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NOMIEZVR4

TCG Elite Member
May 6, 2014
2,036
4,006
Chicago
continuing along, this is the best time of the year to get some major progress done on projects cause old man winter...

Started yesterday by pulling the old trans off. It helps to have a shop and employees. Didn't take long before the old one was out
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Old rear main was leaky, so yanked it out and installed the new one
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Moving along, got the spacer, flexplate, long adapter, FW and clutch installed. Its a twin disc with a super small flywheel
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Never got to install the clutch line, so no better time than now.
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More parts, New Slave. Will mount to trans when its bolted up. Trans mount and diff adapter as well.
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Mounted
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Before mounting the new trans, I wanted to yank this out. There is now officially 1 less automatic MKIV now in the world
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Doing some rough measurements, i dont think ill need to cut much, if at all. Lets see how things work out.

Old trans in the back vs new trans in the foreground
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WIth the help of my bros we lowered the motor as much as we could, got the trans pretty close, about a finger gap away from being mated to the plate but it just wouldn't budge further. Was enough to have some screws grab thread but didn't want to force it in. Gonna try again 1 more with my tech, if no go then were gonna yank the motor.
Before lowering
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After lowering
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NOMIEZVR4

TCG Elite Member
May 6, 2014
2,036
4,006
Chicago
The following morning got to work at 7am, After separating the trans completely and realigning it again, we were successfully able to mount the trans to the motor Thank God :) No need to pull the motor.

From there it was full speed ahead!
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Had to cut like 1.5 to 2" from the tunnel for the shifter to clear.
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Took a picture to see where the slave and fork sat for reference
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Looks pretty ugly right now, but I need to get a shift knob, boot and possibly 6mt console. Haven't decided yet if I want to modify the auto console or fork up the cash for the proper one, will probably buy the 6MT.
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I also have another steering wheel that will be going on. When its all said and done the interior will look factory minus 1 or 2 items. Only thing left now is topping the trans with fluid, installing the driveshaft which I don't have in my posession yet and that should be it. Bled the clutch, modified the harness for the neutral safety switch, reinstalled IC piping, and a few misc items, started the car and was able to row thru the gears with no driveshaft. I do plan to install some sound deading in the tunnel as well once i verify everything is mechanically set. Everything is working wonderfully so far. Once the DS is in my hands I plan to make the maiden voyage with it next week. Stay tuned!
 

willizm

Very Nice, Very Evil
TCG Premium
May 13, 2009
12,837
10,167
The Woodlands, TX
Coming along nicely. You’ll want to pick up one of those manual shifter panels since they are still available from Toyota. Makes it much more clean of an overall install. I had to tilt the motor back to get my magnum in so I set jacked up the front of the motor under the crank pully to give me enough of a rake to get the trans mounted
 

NOMIEZVR4

TCG Elite Member
May 6, 2014
2,036
4,006
Chicago
Coming along nicely. You’ll want to pick up one of those manual shifter panels since they are still available from Toyota. Makes it much more clean of an overall install. I had to tilt the motor back to get my magnum in so I set jacked up the front of the motor under the crank pully to give me enough of a rake to get the trans mounted
Yea I need to grab one of those soon
 

NOMIEZVR4

TCG Elite Member
May 6, 2014
2,036
4,006
Chicago
Last week I managed to pickup the collins driveshaft while on my trip to the east coast. Finally got it into my hands the day before yesterday and I didnt waste any time. Situation wasn't ideal, would have been nice to work on the lift but alas. Got the driveshaft on, went on without a hitch, then pumped the fluid into the trans and then I started the car up. I could tell it wasn't wanting to go into gear with the shaft installed so I adjusted the pedal and that did the trick. Promptly took it to the gas station for her fillup and drove it around on the maiden voyage a few miles with no hiccups so far Thank God.
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Pulling back in after the successful drive
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NOMIEZVR4

TCG Elite Member
May 6, 2014
2,036
4,006
Chicago
Next step is to button up the console. I will add some sound deadening along with boot console to keep the trans noises out of the cabin, I just ordered a 6MT console and a heavy weighted shift knob, once they come in ill put it all together. For the time being I'm going to use this knob I have lying around. Dont mind the candid picture, the interior is horrible at the moment once I clean and button everything up properly, I will post updated pictures. I had some time so I swapped the wheel also. I dont like the bag, will swap it for a different style bag. Overall impressions for the collins stage 5, I was very concerned it would be a race-type clutch with no give in engagement, however I'm very relieved to report that the clutch is friendly. As you guys saw its super easy to engage and roll out with very little throttle. Once i get more miles on it ill give more thoughts on it. Its got a slight rattle at idle which I'm going to see if I can make better with some clutch pedal adjustment.

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