LS guys - Clutch?

lefty

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What kind of clutches are you LS guys using? Did you do a "proper"break in? I'm looking for a good all around clutch that has a mostly stock feel. Did you have to shim it?
 

lastls1

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I purchased an LS7 clutch for my previous GTO. Great feeling clutch. It was put in the car probably 40k miles ago and survived multiple track days slamming gears and hard launches.

The current owner who's a friend of mine still has it in the car and it has not failed. It's held over 550hp-600 hp for those entire 40k miles
 

Red Alert

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I threw an LS7 clutch in my old GTO; no shim was added. Put down 450 to the wheels and beat on it regularly. Never had any issues and felt better than my stock junk.
 

lefty

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I'm very wary about the LS7 clutch. Seen a lot of bad reviews for that clutch in the Fbods on LS1tech. Not sure if its a weight issue or what
 

wolfe

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I've got a monster in mine. No issues so far. Haven't put a ton of miles on it, but nothing leads me to believe I will have any issues at all. Grabs nice, not a heavy pedal, no chatter. I do need to install a tick master, but that has nothing to do with the clutch itself.
 

lefty

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I've got a monster in mine. No issues so far. Haven't put a ton of miles on it, but nothing leads me to believe I will have any issues at all. Grabs nice, not a heavy pedal, no chatter. I do need to install a tick master, but that has nothing to do with the clutch itself.
What kind of Monster? Have you done the drill mod to the hose off of the master?
 

wolfe

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I've got a stage 2. I have not done the drill mod. I'm not gonna mess with it. I've heard the tick is 10x better than stock from just about everyone.
 

IDAFC21

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Another LS7 guy here. No issues. Im normally not too harsh on the car tho, but I've been happy w/ it.
 

taws697

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I'm in the process of breaking in my Monster stage 3. I expected it to be quite a bit stiffer than it is. Some chatter on take off, but I've been told that should go away.
 

lefty

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I purchased an LS7 clutch for my previous GTO. It's held over 550hp-600 hp for those entire 40k miles
I threw an LS7 clutch in my old GTO;.
Another LS7 guy here. .
3 GTO's get an LS7 vote. I know the hydraulics are a little different, the slave cylinder for sure. Not sure if that's why it works for you, But I really don't want to chance it,which sucks cause its a great price on the package

Ls7 for me also and I love it
Fbody or in a goat too?
 

Nate

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+1 for a factory clutch designed to handle massive power yet not upset a vette driver on his way to play 18holes and human traffic some hoes after
 

lastls1

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Honesty if you want that stock like pedal feel that can hold moderate HP the LS7 is the only way to go.
 

lefty

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Honesty if you want that stock like pedal feel that can hold moderate HP the LS7 is the only way to go.
The problem I have is I only want to do this 1 more time, it's a toy as I don't drive it much. I'm full weight+ and up on the power a bit. I've seen mixed reviews on the LS7 with more bad for Fbodys than good. Plus I'm debating on boost so I'd rather get a clutch for where I might be. I'd rather spend a bit more money than do it again, plus Im cheap lmao
 

lefty

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:jg:
+1 for a factory clutch designed to handle massive power yet not upset a vette driver on his way to play 18holes and human traffic some hoes after
I agree but a vette is alot lighter than a trans am
 

CMNTMXR57

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Another, albeit more costly option, to retain OEM pedal feel, but yet high clamping force to handle power, is a twin-disc setup.

I do have to say, even my Monster L4 is pretty easy pedal wise. I've had SPEC's before where I could barely get out of the car after a drive from the workout simply working the clutch pedal.

As to the hydraulics. If I recall correctly, the ONLY difference between the F-Body Slave and the GTO slave is how the hydraulic line connects to it. Otherwise they're identical. Many GTO owners have saved money by using the F-Body slave and changing to the F-Body hydraulic line.

I would also recommend a speed bleeder if it's in the budget. Makes life easier bleeding it out which is necessary before first use.

I used to have pictures of both slaves, but I think once I closed down my photobucket account, those pics didn't make it over to my Imgur account.

Editing;
I found a pic where it shows my hydrualic line for the clutch when I replaced mine. See the hose on the left hanging down. It then uses a pin to hold it to the slave once connected. The F-Body's used more of a quick-connect style fitting like you would have on an air-compressor quick-connect;

 

lefty

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mandatory new slave and speed bleeder. after a certain point whats another couple hundred? I'm dropping the trans to see whats going on in there but it started slipping in 4th. So I figure I'm going to put new shit in since its out so I hopefully don't have to do it again for a while.
 

CMNTMXR57

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That's one of the reasons I went Level 4... For future mod stupidity... I didn't want to do ANOTHER damn clutch. They aren't hard to do, just a PITA. The stupid part is our shifter knob. At least the F-Body's just screwed on. Ours are that silly snap connector where if you're not careful, you'll break those. :D
 

jvert

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For My stock 2001 Ls1 I'm using a spec stage 1 clutch. As stated before get a speed bleeder, helps out tons.
 

Bad00ss

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I always use spec stage 3 clutches. my car needed a clutch every season regardless of brand at this horsepower level and slicks and being raced every single weekend so Speed inc was hooking me up for $400 a clutch every time back in the day. it handled hundreds of 1.40 60fts and daily drove the car. wasnt a bad clutch. I think i've installed 3 of them. the ram clutches i installed lasted 2 months. With the Spec there was no break in. next day it was at the drag strip. a speed bleeder and new slave is a must. I always shimmed the slave.
 

CMNTMXR57

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I've had several SPEC's too. They do hold power great, but seem to require a lot of pedal effort.
 

lefty

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I went with a Mcleod RST, and I have a shim kit ordered. Half the people say get the clutch/flywheel assembly balanced, half say it should of been done at the manufacture and the just installed it. Is there a local place that balances the assembly that anyone used?
 

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