Drag to reposition cover

Frank's random auction purchases/ daily driver work trucks thread.


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Outlaw

Outlaw

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Not to thread jack, but saw something today, if you're looking for more ideas on pulling that rake.
View attachment 91566
Thread jack away lol.

fuck I’ll have to try that with my foreman lol. If a big red can do it my 4x4 should.

If it came down to it and I needed an extra machine I’d pull the fucking rake with my Yukon lol
 
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So as far as I've seen so far digging in to the newest round of shit.

-4020 needs a water pump, bearing has a bit of play in it. I'm going to steam clean it and polish up the paint as much as possible. Still really trying to justify keeping it lol.

-Farmall H needs an oil change, top off the coolant, tires (used), and some wiring attention whenever I get to it. I'd like to drain the fuel tank, clean the sight glass/filter and clean the carb. It runs fine, just has a stuck float. I'm going to powerwash it and try and use some linseed oil like people do with patina on cars to try and give it a cool look and protect what's there.

-Rake needs a fluid change on the gearbox. Outside of that it's solid, bearings are all tight, no issues.

-Cummins needs front u-joints and A/C fixed first and foremost. After that I'd like to try and tighten up the steering. It also needs a clutch as I mentioned, but without absolutely beating the hell out of it it doesn't slip, so, I've got some time on that one.
 
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I’m going to hate my life in 5-7 days. I despise doing u-joint. The truck got new brakes 6 months ago per the receipt I found, so, I won’t be doing anything with those. However, with 220,000 miles and my lack of confidence in my ability to remove them nicely, we’re going to be doing front wheel bearings at the same time lol. The u joints are usually a job I would sub out, but since I want to put a $1,300 clutch in this thing so I can turn it up so I need to just suck it up, take the afternoon and do it myself.

A/C condenser doesn’t look too difficult on these either, so hopefully that can be knocked out quickly as well.

I’m waiting to pull the trigger on steering parts until I do the first round of front end work. Nothing I’m doing will need to be removed again to do steering parts so I’ll wait to see what’s actually needed. Best guess is it’s probably the gearbox based on the wheel slop.

297ED235-9CAC-4520-8592-3B60E178927F.jpeg
 

DEEZUZ

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I’m going to hate my life in 5-7 days. I despise doing u-joint. The truck got new brakes 6 months ago per the receipt I found, so, I won’t be doing anything with those. However, with 220,000 miles and my lack of confidence in my ability to remove them nicely, we’re going to be doing front wheel bearings at the same time lol. The u joints are usually a job I would sub out, but since I want to put a $1,300 clutch in this thing so I can turn it up so I need to just suck it up, take the afternoon and do it myself.

A/C condenser doesn’t look too difficult on these either, so hopefully that can be knocked out quickly as well.

I’m waiting to pull the trigger on steering parts until I do the first round of front end work. Nothing I’m doing will need to be removed again to do steering parts so I’ll wait to see what’s actually needed. Best guess is it’s probably the gearbox based on the wheel slop.

View attachment 91791
Go rent a ball joint tool from auto zone/advance. It has to be the truck one. That will help with the u joints.

These are easy. Knock the inner circlip out with a hammer and punch then punch the caps out.

A good vice and ball peen hammer works too
 
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Go rent a ball joint tool from auto zone/advance. It has to be the truck one. That will help with the u joints.

These are easy. Knock the inner circlip out with a hammer and punch then punch the caps out.

A good vice and ball peen hammer works too
I’ve rented enough of them that I was considering just buying one. They can’t be more than $150 at the Freight lol. Also going to finally buy a seal puller.
 
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I’ve done u-joints one other time. I CAN do them, I just don’t like to lol. I’m hearing chirping from what sounds like behind me when coasting, so I’m thinking it may need rear DS u-joints as well. I haven’t gotten under it, but being a shorter truck it should just be a 1-piece driveshaft.
 
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Having a hell of a time finding decent hay equipment right now. I know that’s what you get in-season, but goddamnit it’s frustrating lol. Especially having to research every individual piece you find to see if they’re reliable and have parts available.
 
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4020’s potentially sticking around and I’ll sell the Ram in its place.

Long story short it’s got a combine engine in it so I can’t trust or advertise the hours as true. Being a combine engine it’s probably relatively low, but who knows. I probably wouldn’t make much on it so if I can put it to work I would much rather see it get used.

Any thoughts GTPpower GTPpower
 

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I'm not sure exactly what the difference is between the combine engine and the tractor engines. I'm sure there are some internal differences. The 4020 is supposed to have a 404 in it. The combine replacement is I think usually out of a 6600 or 7700. Maybe even a 4400. I think the water pump is different, and the injection pump might be in a different location. The hydraulic pump might also be mounted differently. But I think there were a lot of revisions to the engine, so hard to say.



My neighbor has been a tech at Deere for like 30 or 40 years. He could tell you anything you wanted to know about it. It helps a lot if you can find a guy like that.
 
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From what I’ve read the engines are fundamentally the same with the exception of two holes that need to be tapped and the water pump IIRC. Trying to figure out if it’s a combine water pump or if you switch to the tractor one since that’s the part I need for the machine.
 
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Much appreciated. That’s on the tomorrow list to drain the coolant and get the pump off
 

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Does yours have 1 or 2 batteries? And do you know if it's running on 12 volts or 24 volt electrical system?
 
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Not sure on either one. I’ll pull the cover and check tomorrow.
 

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