Fox Body Coyote Swap. Anyone in here done one?


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BADAZZTEALCOBRA

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looks like a gen3 truck motor can be had for 3-4K, for that money I’d definitely go that route opg’s crank sprocket I’ve herd you need to upgrade valve springs in the truck motors if you want to spin them around 8k rpm and you might as well to take advantage of the mustang intake add headers and have palm beach dyno get you either a flex tune or a dedicated e85 tune you will make 450-500whp with those basic bolt ons and e85.
I guess that's my point. Theyre all over eBay for $2500 or best offer. If Im going to swap a few of the things out no matter what engine I buy, isnt it better off going with the cheaper one? :dunno:

Just got a message from a few places they had them available in Mustang form but theyre all at like $5k.

If I can get a Mustang based one for $4k ill be getting it. If not I'll likely go with an F150 version and changing everything out on it.
 

The Beast

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Yep, so rich Im looking at used coyote motors. :s00ls:

The EFI and a bunch of other stuff sold so I can realistically get a motor now if I can find one for the 4k price range. Time will tell.
Tell them show you the money. Don’t listen to Juan the ultimate Jew telling you how to build your car. Nothing wrong with a junkyard motor in low mileage mustang.
 
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Tell them show you the money. Don’t listen to Juan the ultimate Jew telling you how to build your car. Nothing wrong with a junkyard motor in low mileage mustang.
After all these assholes lowballing me on everything I'm selling I'm doing the same now. Fuck it. Worst they can do is say no and I keep looking.

It's just hard to justify a Mustang based motor when F150's run just fine and are literally half the price for less miles.

If I hear back from any of these places today though itll give me something to go do on my day off.
 

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After all these assholes lowballing me on everything I'm selling I'm doing the same now. Fuck it. Worst they can do is say no and I keep looking.

It's just hard to justify a Mustang based motor when F150's run just fine and are literally half the price for less miles.

If I hear back from any of these places today though itll give me something to go do on my day off.
Patience sir u will end up with a good if you take your time.
 

ilikemtb999

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After all these assholes lowballing me on everything I'm selling I'm doing the same now. Fuck it. Worst they can do is say no and I keep looking.

It's just hard to justify a Mustang based motor when F150's run just fine and are literally half the price for less miles.

If I hear back from any of these places today though itll give me something to go do on my day off.
Those f150’s seem to run like a raped ape with mods, I see zero issues starting with that platform.
 
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I can't remember did you cut out the shock towers yet?
The aprons and everything are still in it, I gotta get that shit going next actually. Need to get an argon tank for the mig welder I bought and start getting to work in the engine bay....

Anywhere locally that sells a smaller tank of argon mix cheap? I can find them on amazon full and delivered for $320 for 80 cu ft tank and 75/25 mix...
 
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Just swung by global and they have a Mustang one coming in with 23k on the clock that they want $5000 for. Told them if they want to save me the trip to Peoria that Id give them $4500 for it.

He said he was going to try to work the numbers and see.

I think he thought I was just bullshitting him on the price when I mentioned Peoria he knew the place I was talking about and called them on the spot and asked if they talked to me and would take $4000 for the engine theyre asking $4600 for and the guy was like "yep!"

The problem though is they have a $350 core charge they failed to mention, so itll technically be $4350.

If I can get this one from Global for $4500 and have a 5 minute drive to get it that would be ideal.
 
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Those f150’s seem to run like a raped ape with mods, I see zero issues starting with that platform.
Thats all I keep reading too.

Juan makes it sound like its a hunk of shit, yet if I had it and put the Mustang parts into it and said it was a crate motor he would be posting how awesome the setup is. :s00ls:
 

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The aprons and everything are still in it, I gotta get that shit going next actually. Need to get an argon tank for the mig welder I bought and start getting to work in the engine bay....

Anywhere locally that sells a smaller tank of argon mix cheap? I can find them on amazon full and delivered for $320 for 80 cu ft tank and 75/25 mix...
That's a pretty good price, considering the convenience of being delivered to your door. I paid about the same for my 80 cu ft tanks from American Welding Gas.
 

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Thats all I keep reading too.

Juan makes it sound like its a hunk of shit, yet if I had it and put the Mustang parts into it and said it was a crate motor he would be posting how awesome the setup is. :s00ls:
Obviously it’s your car and money. Having experience in pissing away money on several projects, all I can say is by the time you “fix” your junkyard mota you will prolly not save that much money. I would definitely buy one of these instead:
8854EDA2-CEFD-4864-9771-57776CD2868B.png
C26D0444-2C04-4273-9503-A0F1656F2409.png
 
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Obviously it’s your car and money. Having experience in pissing away money on several projects, all I can say is by the time you “fix” your junkyard mota you will prolly not save that much money. I would definitely buy one of these instead.
I get what you're saying, but those "sealed motors" still need to get opened up and have billet oil gears, billet crank gear, etc. added to them.

I think you're hearing junkyard motor and thinking of a big rusty pile of shit.

Cheapest Gen 2 "new" motor I can find is $8,000. Is it worth getting one with 23k miles and saving $3500k ????
 

1quick

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Obviously it’s your car and money. Having experience in pissing away money on several projects, all I can say is by the time you “fix” your junkyard mota you will prolly not save that much money. I would definitely buy one of these instead:
View attachment 57221
View attachment 57222
It’s the same motor, it’s like buying a mustang with 20k miles on it, the gen3 truck motor runs hard it’s not going to be a big difference after he puts a few Bolton’s anyway, the one guy I talk to on Facebook has gone 12.2 in a supercrew f150 with headers exhaust mustang intake and e85 tune, mine has done 12.8 with e85 cat deletes and a cold air intake, could you imagine that in a car that probably weighs a couple thousand lbs less the 20-30hp he’s giving up from the cams won’t make a difference
 

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I get what you're saying, but those "sealed motors" still need to get opened up and have billet oil gears, billet crank gear, etc. added to them.

I think you're hearing junkyard motor and thinking of a big rusty pile of shit.

Cheapest Gen 2 "new" motor I can find is $8,000. Is it worth getting one with 23k miles and saving $3500k ????
How much does peace of mind cost? How do you know if that person changed the oil? I sold my old vet with 10k miles but had over 50 1/4 mile hits on it.

i just don’t think you are goi ng to save that much at the end of day and I rather buy new. That’s just me.
 
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How much does peace of mind cost? How do you know if that person changed the oil? I sold my old vet with 10k miles but had over 50 1/4 mile hits on it.

i just don’t think you are goi ng to save that much at the end of day and I rather buy new. That’s just me.
In this scenario, peace of mind costs $3500. :bowrofl:
 

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- I'm definitely leaning towards Gen 2. Gen 3 shit is still stupid expensive, even for used parts. New engine is $8500'ish.

- All the research Ive done so far was that the differences between F150 and Mustang was the intake camshafts, 10.5:1 compression instead of 11:1, smaller oil pump gears, cast iron exhaust manifold, and a different tune.
Realistically, I would look into doing camshafts anyway, dont mind losing the half point of compression, was going to do a new oil pump with billet gears in either engine, already have long tubes, and the car will be tuned by PBD, Lund, etc. anyway so who gives a shit about the tune? :dunno:

- Correct, Gen 1 and Gen 2 Mustangs were 11:1, while the F150 was 10.5:1. Gen 3 both the Mustang and the F150 are 12:1

- Not sure on flex fuel yet. If I can reach my goals on 93 octane Ill do that, if I need to go e85, I might do that. In either case I will likely pick one and stick with it.

- All computer duties will be done through a ford control pack. Not doing a standalone, not going to try to tune on a laptop, etc.

- Im definitely planning on doing the oil pump gears and crank gear for sure. I was debating doing the chain guides and all that for the same reason. Its already opened up, might as well. Our goals are totally opposite one another though. Youre doing a whole lotta boost and will have much higher power numbers.

- Yeah, the car already has the 2004 IRS in it with the whole boat of FTBR parts thrown into it, I'll definitely be going MM K-member. They changed the design in 2018 for the newer coyotes so I have to make sure I get the newest MMKM-2.1 model from them so I'm sure its the best fit for coyote motors.
Fair enough and agreed. The cams are easy to swap, the pistons can be swapped later if you really want more compression, and the tune is irrelevant as it needs to be tuned anyway. Mike T runs a lower compression Yote as well. Just takes him more boost to get the power he wants. Standard issue stuff.

Are you considering boost or staying NA?

A note on the cams... most every bolt on that motor is torque to yield. I bought ARP replacements b/c of this so that I could actually remove the bolts as needed and replace them. Just a heads up, don't take bolts loose without replacing them! Crank bolt is TTY so you'll swap that for OPG/CG upgrades. Cam cap and phaser bolts are TTY so you'll have to swap those if you swap the cams.

I have all of the service manuals for the motor and how to time it. It's got little marks all of the place that you just line up and then put the timing chains on, but there's a sequence to how you want to remove and replace everything. Very simple to do if you have the instructions in front of you. :)

As for the electrical, I can tell you what ties into what. It's pretty easy to tie it to the foxbody electrical in the places you need.
 
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Fair enough and agreed. The cams are easy to swap, the pistons can be swapped later if you really want more compression, and the tune is irrelevant as it needs to be tuned anyway. Mike T runs a lower compression Yote as well. Just takes him more boost to get the power he wants. Standard issue stuff.

Are you considering boost or staying NA?

A note on the cams... most every bolt on that motor is torque to yield. I bought ARP replacements b/c of this so that I could actually remove the bolts as needed and replace them. Just a heads up, don't take bolts loose without replacing them! Crank bolt is TTY so you'll swap that for OPG/CG upgrades. Cam cap and phaser bolts are TTY so you'll have to swap those if you swap the cams.

I have all of the service manuals for the motor and how to time it. It's got little marks all of the place that you just line up and then put the timing chains on, but there's a sequence to how you want to remove and replace everything. Very simple to do if you have the instructions in front of you. :)

As for the electrical, I can tell you what ties into what. It's pretty easy to tie it to the foxbody electrical in the places you need.
Im definitely going to be picking your brain on more of the wiring shit in the near future. Might have to come up and take a look again at your stuff.

Most likely staying NA with it, but never say never when it comes to boost if the funds ever get replenished.

I remembered you saying the timing was pretty easy when you put in all the MMR stuff, I'll definitely keep that in mind.

Realistically, I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the blue one I posted last page. I talked to them and theyre working with me on the price so we shall see.
 

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