So a bigger intercooler is gonna help your engine temp issue? When did intercoolers start cooling the engine coolant?
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Dual cold air intake idea
- Thread starter 4DoorBlackTop
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So a bigger intercooler is gonna help your engine temp issue? When did intercoolers start cooling the engine coolant?
the OP is refering to removing the fogs and ducting air from there into the engine bay. not into the engine air tract as a "cold air intake" but im guessing he thinks aircooling a liquid cooled engine is a great idea
so instead of air going through the heatexchanger the air will find an easier path through the ducts and bypass the HE....which means the HE is no longer effective with reduced airflow
the factory often has shrouding and airdams to prevent air from bypassing the radiator for just this reason
to the OP, if your overheating in 90* air daves right, you have larger issues you need to look at, specifically look for debris/cottonwood fuzz between the radiator and condenser, and make sure the lower airdam and all air shields are still in place, often the flexible rubber sheeting or plastic will tear around the plastic pushclips that hold them in place.
you want to make sure that as much of the air entering the engine bay is through the radiator.
remove airflow through a water to air heat exchanger and you will lose efficiency and increase water temps
so instead of air going through the heatexchanger the air will find an easier path through the ducts and bypass the HE....which means the HE is no longer effective with reduced airflow
the factory often has shrouding and airdams to prevent air from bypassing the radiator for just this reason
to the OP, if your overheating in 90* air daves right, you have larger issues you need to look at, specifically look for debris/cottonwood fuzz between the radiator and condenser, and make sure the lower airdam and all air shields are still in place, often the flexible rubber sheeting or plastic will tear around the plastic pushclips that hold them in place.
you want to make sure that as much of the air entering the engine bay is through the radiator.
remove airflow through a water to air heat exchanger and you will lose efficiency and increase water temps
Zack has the right idea for my original intention, but as I posted and someone highlighted I did not want to hook it up to the air filter, just running it into the engine bay.
Like I said, it's better that I ask and told I don't make since than to go waste my time and money if this would have been noneffective... as everyone has told me. Plus I was a little concerned about rain if I actually did this.
I will not be doing to so feel free to laugh.
I do not wrench or know 1/10th of the knowledge most share. So thank you again for the info.
Like I said, it's better that I ask and told I don't make since than to go waste my time and money if this would have been noneffective... as everyone has told me. Plus I was a little concerned about rain if I actually did this.
I will not be doing to so feel free to laugh.
I do not wrench or know 1/10th of the knowledge most share. So thank you again for the info.
And you told me to re-read the OP....Take your own advice bro.None of you speak Dominick and this is what the pinhead wants to do:
I've known him for years and he still doesn't make a lick of sense.
P.S. still waiting on the rape.
Back in the 80's, I know before some of you were born guys were doing a lot of road racing and the guy's running turbo buicks were running a air duck tube from the front to the turbo, of course this only worked if car was moving and you had airflow. I have a Ken Bell front lower air dam and intake with air going to intake, intercooler and another 4' flex hose from front to turbo. Even back then there were heated discussions on how much it helped so only a few air damns were made and then you could buy a kit to add it if you wanted to, thats what I did. I'm not sure how much it helped and maybe it was one of those (I call) feally goodies.
If there is a rubber trim piece between the hood and firewall, you might be able to cut or remove a section of that, in order to allow some heat to flow out while driving. However, you have to be driving over 40 mph in order for this to work and MAY only reduce engine bay temps a few degrees. I would follow Turbocharged400sbc's advice and check the actual radiator for dirt/dust and shit clogging it.
If that is clear, then go ahead and check the cooling system and swap out the thermostat for a lower temp. Typically, in the summer, I run a 160* stat, while in the winter, i run a 195* stat. They should be fairly easy to swap out (or at least on every car I've owned they were).
Last but least, check the wiring to the electric fan to make sure that's working. It should switch on and off even while parked to cool the motor. If it doesn't even go on, consider yourself lucky to have found it before something goes BOOM!
If that is clear, then go ahead and check the cooling system and swap out the thermostat for a lower temp. Typically, in the summer, I run a 160* stat, while in the winter, i run a 195* stat. They should be fairly easy to swap out (or at least on every car I've owned they were).
Last but least, check the wiring to the electric fan to make sure that's working. It should switch on and off even while parked to cool the motor. If it doesn't even go on, consider yourself lucky to have found it before something goes BOOM!
I prefer this Turtles song. I sent it to one of the MODS a few years back. If you have 2 and a half minutes give it a listen, yes lyrics are posted.
Am I the only one who is laughing my ass off at this ^^^ ?
BTW Dom I noticed you are back on the other site. What's the story behind that?
Originally Posted by Zack
Route one duct to the MAF and the other right after the MAF for most horsepower.
Nope, there be at least two of us...:bigok:
Route one duct to the MAF and the other right after the MAF for most horsepower.
Nope, there be at least two of us...:bigok:
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