đź’¦ Detailing Detailing crew - I want to learn how to buff

1quick

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The PC can be effective as a paint correction tool. Just depends on the pad/compound. I used an LC yellow pad and M105 on my buddy's old maxima a few years back to remove some deep scratches and oxidation. It worked flawlessly. I had to be careful too because with that heavy of a pad, it would dull the hell out of the surface. Never burn it tho.

I used the LC orange pad and M105/m205 on my cars for years. Got glass like results. It was only when I switched to a rotary with the same mindset I had for using the PC, was when I burned the mustang. I should have never switched from the PC. I was able to even buff out 2000+ grit wet sanding marks with it. Watch Junkman 2000 on youtube. Hes the PC and Flex master. Tons of videos wetsanding and buffing with both the PC and flex. Lots of great info.

https://www.youtube.com/user/Junkman2000


It can be it just takes a very long time compared to a high speed buffer
 

10sec

I haz dat teddy bear smile.
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Is this what people say not to use?

714c45tjgVL._SL1300_.jpg
 

1quick

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So this is what you burned your paint with? I have used it on my cars, but I didn't go as long as the video on the first page. I feel like if I went that long I'd screw the paint up something furious.

With the right pad speed and compound it can be pretty safe but you can take it down to bare metal real quick if you don't know what your doing
 

TCG Member 5219

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So this is what you burned your paint with? I have used it on my cars, but I didn't go as long as the video on the first page. I feel like if I went that long I'd screw the paint up something furious.

It wasn't the time, it was the pressure. Plus it was over a body line where the paint is thinner. I had used it a few times before too with great results. But I got aggressive on a wet sanding mark that I couldn't pull with my PC, and the rotary was just too much. Thin ford paint, thinner on the edge near the body line and using more pressure than the weight of the rotary head itself did the deed. I feel I know now what happened but I would never attempt another rotary fix again myself. I'd leave that to the pros from now on. I'd use the flex and PC again for light scratches and swirls tho. That was easy to do.
 

1quick

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I use a very fine compound that cuts from the heat generated by the amount of pressure you use, it's harder to burn the paint that way and it doesn't leave swirl marks, I buff on the highest speed setting and don't use hardly any pressure unless I'm trying to cut through a deep scratch
 

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If you use a finer compound it will not swirl as bad

What compound are you using?

The problem most people have with rotaries is that they grab a wool pad and rubbing compound and thats where things can go bad quick. A nice soft pad and light polish and keep the buffer moving and you will be fine.

What pad should I look for on Amazon?
 

jason05gt

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The problem most people have with rotaries is that they grab a wool pad and rubbing compound and thats where things can go bad quick. A nice soft pad and light polish and keep the buffer moving and you will be fine.

In my opinion, rotaries are old dated technology. You can get great results with a higher end polishers like Rupes or Flex. That's what I see all the high end "paint correction" detailers using on the internets.
 
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