I figured I'd talk about this a little bit more while I'm getting some paint stuff figured out:
This van had the ancient VCR player, aka MontanaVision. I've talked a bit about the challenge in updating this system into a modern functional thing, but I haven't talked at all about what that really means in terms of a project. The first thing to note is that those brackets that hole the player are 3D printed.
I ended up 3D modeling most of the environment of this console so I could model all the mounts and stuff to go along with it.
That includes mounts for the power inverter (true sine wave inverter)
The faceplate for this has evolved as I've been working on it. Fuses, switches and indicator LEDs have to be re-located to the faceplate, which I decided needed this:
Designed a circuit board to house a 4-port USB charge point using an LD1085v voltage regulator (5v, 3a). Printed and etched and drilled at home. I used clear epoxy resin with resin dye to seal the board up after it was soldered to prevent it from oxidation or other damage to the traces. I'll have to monitor the heat sinks, they might be a little small without forced air. It will mount on the faceplate above the BRP.
Power for anything audio related is being moved to a 3d printed distribution block:
Bluetooth audio is going to be spliced into the remote CD player (playing a blank CD). I wish there was a way to use this channel without needing the CD in the player.
I'll be using this distribution point to power all things audio: The radio, small sub amp, anything you could plug into and play on the screen, and a few other things out of convenience (like the power sliding doors, any rear USB charge ports, etc) to attempt to avoid audio ground loops. I need to brush up on my audio wiring knowledge, I don't see any kind of noise isolation (alternator whine?) in the wiring diagrams. Is this handled internal to the head unit? I've got some ferrite chokes on the main power wire into the block, but just want to make sure that I account for and isolate any source of noise. Any insight here is welcome.
Next, more in the realm of 3D printing! What I wanted to do with the intake is retain the stock airbox assembly (PCM mounts in it, it's basically a FWI already, etc...), but there simply isn't enough room to fit the two needed silicone elbows and even if I jammed it all together it wouldn't have any room to flex with engine movement. So I came up with a concept that will allow it to move without binding, and still leave air filter changes a screwdriver only affair. First component took 40 hours to print, the inlet elbow that turns the throttle body 90 degrees while maintaining a mostly constant cross-sectional area for air to flow:
The next piece is a slip joint, not yet done, that will connect to the 90 degree elbow and go straight down into the airbox cover somewhere in the middle. Have to source another airbox cover though as I have to cut the old outlet off it and fill in the huge hole. The slip joint has 30mm of travel if I use a gasket instead of a bellow (I might 3D print a bellow later, haven't used flexible filaments before), it should accomodate easy removal of the elbow off the airbox lid, which means the airbox lid should be easily accessible. I'm sure there are other options, but keeping the stock-ish look is part of the fun.
