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Old 11-05-2016, 04:40 PM   #1
 
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Default What did I break?

Car started running like shit one day, so I used my Bluetooth module and noticed my O2 sensor died, replaced the sensor. While I had the car running I noticed that I'm getting a lot of white smoke out of the oil breather (where my oil cap would be, if I wasn't running a breather. Seems to puff like a cylinder lost compression and it's getting to the crankcase. Don't seem to be losing any coolant or getting a mix of coolant oil.

Also think I have an alternator that can't keep up (when the high speed fans kick on the cars idle dips down and the voltage drops) or maybe a ground that is shitty?

Did I fry the rings? Seems like it's cylinder number 6 (per the misfire code that JUST popped up)
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Old 11-05-2016, 05:14 PM   #2
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Kevin's car Puffs from the Breather when it's not at operating temp
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Old 11-05-2016, 05:28 PM   #3
 
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Kevin's car Puffs from the Breather when it's not at operating temp


This seems excessive, since it will come up from under the hood and it's never done this before. Also seems like the engine starts easier, not sure if that's even a thing? Lol
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Old 11-05-2016, 05:31 PM   #4
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A bad sensor really f***** with fueling but aside from managing to run really rich and wash down the cylinder walls I could only think of one of your injectors possibly streaming and killing the ring seal that way.
A new O2 sensor with it reading proper stoichiometric I could imagine it would start better and faster.
The Rings you might have gotten worse but you may just be stuck with it at this point unless it is a clogged fuel injector that is not misting properly
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Old 11-05-2016, 05:36 PM   #5
 
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A bad sensor really f***** with fueling but aside from managing to run really rich and wash down the cylinder walls I could only think of one of your injectors possibly streaming and killing the ring seal that way.
A new O2 sensor with it reading proper stoichiometric I could imagine it would start better and faster.
The Rings you might have gotten worse but you may just be stuck with it at this point unless it is a clogged fuel injector that is not misting properly


Hmm anything to check or try? Or just run it and see what happens?
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Old 11-05-2016, 06:00 PM   #6
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You could do a cold and hot engine, cylinder leak down test and check to make sure it's within 5% of the rest
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Old 11-05-2016, 07:42 PM   #7
 
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What did the sensor look like when you pulled it ? Are you getting smoke out the radiator ?

Blown rings will cause black smoke out exhaust. And smoke in the crankcase , but it's usually not white. Grey ish maybe .

If you think its one bad piston making the car run like shit , pull a spark plug wire till you find the hole that doesn't change idle . Then look at the spark plug . Or do a compression test on all .
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Old 11-07-2016, 12:56 PM   #8
 
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You could do a cold and hot engine, cylinder leak down test and check to make sure it's within 5% of the rest


If I just check hot since I don't have the tools, I'd be going to a shop my buddy works at, what am I looking for? I'm sure he would know. Or do I NEED to check both hot and cold?
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:03 PM   #9
 
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What did the sensor look like when you pulled it ? Are you getting smoke out the radiator ?

Blown rings will cause black smoke out exhaust. And smoke in the crankcase , but it's usually not white. Grey ish maybe .

If you think its one bad piston making the car run like shit , pull a spark plug wire till you find the hole that doesn't change idle . Then look at the spark plug . Or do a compression test on all .


Sensor was whiteish. This car seems to eat these things for some reason. I only use denso too. I don't know about smoke out the radiator. But no smoke out the over flow.

I'll try to take a video later. Smoke seems white to me.

The car runs pretty fine so long as my idle doesn't dip down when I go to stop at a red light, then the alternator only charges about 12 volts and it idles like shit (and rich) until I bring the idle up a couple hundred rpm. I ordered an alternator, hope that's my problem that it just can't put out at idle. Was a autozone alternator from 3 years ago.

Is it possible I have a head gasket that's messed up but not leaking coolant? I am running about 14/15 psi on a stock compression stock gasket L36.
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:51 PM   #10
 
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The car runs pretty fine so long as my idle doesn't dip down when I go to stop at a red light, then the alternator only charges about 12 volts and it idles like shit (and rich) until I bring the idle up a couple hundred rpm. I ordered an alternator, hope that's my problem that it just can't put out at idle. Was a autozone alternator from 3 years ago.
that does sound like an alt. runs fine besides low rpm or idle makes me think a damn MAF dont know why but my s1x e85 car used to eat those.
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Old 11-09-2016, 03:59 PM   #11
 
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I used one of those "combustion leak testers" that uses the blue fluid. Definitely turned greenish/yellow. Starting to lean more towards some sort of head/head gasket issue. Right?
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Old 11-09-2016, 08:23 PM   #12
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Does your cooling system build pressure before the engines even warmed up?
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Old 11-10-2016, 06:18 AM   #13
 
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Does your cooling system build pressure before the engines even warmed up?


How would I know? The engine warms up pretty quickly. In the overflow I see an air bubble every few seconds when it's up to temp and running. But the overflow has a vent..

If I wasn't leaving a dusting of smoke randomly when driving I wouldn't much care since the car runs decently.
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Old 11-10-2016, 06:46 AM   #14
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HG is goners
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Old 11-10-2016, 06:48 AM   #15
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a leakdown test would have probably given you bubbles through the radiator.

use a mirror and light to see any area's of the HG that may have blown out below the exhaust header to head flanges. if you cant see a pushed out gasket then a leakdown would at least tell you which bank to yank the head off of
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Old 11-10-2016, 07:03 AM   #16
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If you're not mixing fluids, just leave it alone and keep driving it.
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Old 11-10-2016, 07:25 AM   #17
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uh, don't give shitty advice.
at the least do a cyl leakdown test, testers at HF are fairly cheap but you can also put an air hose fitting onto a comp tester hose to inject air and find the dead hole.
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Old 11-10-2016, 07:32 AM   #18
 
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Which headgasket(s) or engine gasket set (I assume I need the lower and plenum gaskets) and which head bolts? GM stuff only?

Is 15psi too much on stock head-gaskets on a L36? Or might there have been another reason?
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Old 11-10-2016, 01:06 PM   #19
 
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Gm, Victor reinz, or felpro all work well. You will either need new bolts or arp studs.

The l36 should be able to handle those pressures without any issues. You probably had some detonation that pushed the gasket out.
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Old 11-10-2016, 01:13 PM   #20
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Fuck tests, keep driving it until something actually breaks.
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Old 11-10-2016, 01:48 PM   #21
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What so he can overheat the s*** out of it lunch the motor and possibly crack the radiator from overpressure... brilliant
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Old 11-10-2016, 03:44 PM   #22
 
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Definitely don't wanna do that. Motor seems strong considering.

James you wanna tear into it? lol I don't really wanna pay a shop since it'll be a ridiculous amount especially since they might say my shit isn't stock so they really don't wanna do it.

Idk if a guy I used to work with would be interested, now that it's getting colder out and I'm not sure his garage is heated.
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Old 11-10-2016, 07:25 PM   #23
 
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Maybe you can zip tie it, 10sec style.
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Old 11-10-2016, 07:38 PM   #24
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He has like 1 problem but the car is fine, why the FUCK should he care? Drive it, fuck looking at it.
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:52 PM   #25
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Definitely don't wanna do that. Motor seems strong considering.

James you wanna tear into it? lol I don't really wanna pay a shop since it'll be a ridiculous amount especially since they might say my shit isn't stock so they really don't wanna do it.

Idk if a guy I used to work with would be interested, now that it's getting colder out and I'm not sure his garage is heated.
best I could suggest is my buddy JR up at Harry's on rand, he's always looking for racecar $ for the nova.

if you narrow it down to a bank, you can just do the one and yank the other exh manifold to Rtq the studs. or are you oe bolts?

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Maybe you can zip tie it, 10sec style.
I chuckled

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He has like 1 problem but the car is fine, why the FUCK should he care? Drive it, fuck looking at it.
what in the hell is wrong with you?

he's pushing combustion gasses, he can save himself a lot of $ and headache.

its like I hardly know you anymore
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