Task: Put a heater in Eagle's garage
- Thread starter Eagle
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That would be a killer idea. But I think it'd take up too much real estate around it. Those things get HOT!
I mean it could be... I just didn't want to deal with cutting a hole in my freakin house.
I understand the non-vented deals also create soot of some sort that settles like dust?
The Truth About Vent Free Gas Heaters
Millions of people worldwide are enjoying the benefits of heating their living spaces with vent-free gas heaters, logs, fireplaces, and stoves.
Why choose vent free?
Vent free (unvented) heaters are 99% energy efficient! That’s because all of the usable heat energy goes into the space. No heat is wasted through a flue to the outside air. Therefore, they cost just pennies an hour to operate and can save consumers a bundle in heating costs during the cold months.
Furthermore, vent free heaters supply supplemental heat where you need it, when you need it, allowing for lower central heating demands in areas such as family rooms, dens, kitchens, dining rooms and bathrooms. They are ideal for hard-to-heat areas such as basements, room additions, sun porches or utility rooms.
Are vent free heaters safe? What about indoor air quality (IAQ)?
Here’s a little chemistry 101. We know that perfect combustion of fuel (natural or propane gas) produces carbon dioxide and water. Properly installed and maintained vent free heaters fall into that category of nearly perfect, complete combustion. As long as there is adequate ventilation to the space, these products of combustion are considered natural and non-toxic. We deal with these elements to some degree every day.
What if oxygen levels are too low or carbon dioxide levels are too high?
That can produce toxic levels of carbon monoxide (CO), which could affect a person’s health. The good news is that an oxygen depletion sensor (ODS) built into all vent free appliances designed for dwelling spaces of the home guarantees that the oxygen levels never drop below 18 percent. Therefore, even if someone fails to follow proper ventilation guidelines, it is unlikely that lethal levels of CO could ever occur.
From a combustion safety viewpoint, properly sized and maintained vent free heaters are excellent for most spaces. However, consumers need to know that the combustion process produces water. A 20,000 BTU vent free heater will produce about ÂĽ gallon of water into a living area each hour.
Is water vapor a pollutant?
Not in moderate amounts. Too much, however, could increase a person’s susceptibility to upper respiratory disorders. On the other hand, so can air that is too dry, especially during the winter months where relative humidity indoors can be quite low. Note that many people feel that the extra humidity actually makes them feel healthier and alleviates the need to add some type of humidifier. A vent free heater can provide that extra needed humidity.
If you notice excessive condensation on windows and other cold surfaces, or in wall cavities, that is a good indicator that you don’t have enough fresh air to offset the water vapor being emitted into your space. This can occur in a home environment even without a vent free appliance operating. There are other producers of humidity inside the average house such as washing machines, dryers, bathrooms kitchens and people.
Ventilation into every home is important. As the old adage states "the solution to pollution is dilution". Infiltration of outside air is good. Some newer homes are so tight that mechanical ventilation must be added to sufficiently keep concentrations of combustion products and other contaminants at low levels.
The truth is, vent free heaters are, in and of themselves, extremely safe, economical to operate and, when properly sized and maintained, are proven to meet today’s rigorous standards for air quality. And as long as consumers demand energy-saving products, the future of vent-free appliances looks very bright indeed.
A qualified vent free appliance dealer will ask all the right questions to help you determine the appropriate amount of BTU’s needed to heat your space and give helpful guidelines for ensuring safe, trouble-free operation.
http://www.infraredinfo.com/Article_2.html
Millions of people worldwide are enjoying the benefits of heating their living spaces with vent-free gas heaters, logs, fireplaces, and stoves.
Why choose vent free?
Vent free (unvented) heaters are 99% energy efficient! That’s because all of the usable heat energy goes into the space. No heat is wasted through a flue to the outside air. Therefore, they cost just pennies an hour to operate and can save consumers a bundle in heating costs during the cold months.
Furthermore, vent free heaters supply supplemental heat where you need it, when you need it, allowing for lower central heating demands in areas such as family rooms, dens, kitchens, dining rooms and bathrooms. They are ideal for hard-to-heat areas such as basements, room additions, sun porches or utility rooms.
Are vent free heaters safe? What about indoor air quality (IAQ)?
Here’s a little chemistry 101. We know that perfect combustion of fuel (natural or propane gas) produces carbon dioxide and water. Properly installed and maintained vent free heaters fall into that category of nearly perfect, complete combustion. As long as there is adequate ventilation to the space, these products of combustion are considered natural and non-toxic. We deal with these elements to some degree every day.
What if oxygen levels are too low or carbon dioxide levels are too high?
That can produce toxic levels of carbon monoxide (CO), which could affect a person’s health. The good news is that an oxygen depletion sensor (ODS) built into all vent free appliances designed for dwelling spaces of the home guarantees that the oxygen levels never drop below 18 percent. Therefore, even if someone fails to follow proper ventilation guidelines, it is unlikely that lethal levels of CO could ever occur.
From a combustion safety viewpoint, properly sized and maintained vent free heaters are excellent for most spaces. However, consumers need to know that the combustion process produces water. A 20,000 BTU vent free heater will produce about ÂĽ gallon of water into a living area each hour.
Is water vapor a pollutant?
Not in moderate amounts. Too much, however, could increase a person’s susceptibility to upper respiratory disorders. On the other hand, so can air that is too dry, especially during the winter months where relative humidity indoors can be quite low. Note that many people feel that the extra humidity actually makes them feel healthier and alleviates the need to add some type of humidifier. A vent free heater can provide that extra needed humidity.
If you notice excessive condensation on windows and other cold surfaces, or in wall cavities, that is a good indicator that you don’t have enough fresh air to offset the water vapor being emitted into your space. This can occur in a home environment even without a vent free appliance operating. There are other producers of humidity inside the average house such as washing machines, dryers, bathrooms kitchens and people.
Ventilation into every home is important. As the old adage states "the solution to pollution is dilution". Infiltration of outside air is good. Some newer homes are so tight that mechanical ventilation must be added to sufficiently keep concentrations of combustion products and other contaminants at low levels.
The truth is, vent free heaters are, in and of themselves, extremely safe, economical to operate and, when properly sized and maintained, are proven to meet today’s rigorous standards for air quality. And as long as consumers demand energy-saving products, the future of vent-free appliances looks very bright indeed.
A qualified vent free appliance dealer will ask all the right questions to help you determine the appropriate amount of BTU’s needed to heat your space and give helpful guidelines for ensuring safe, trouble-free operation.
http://www.infraredinfo.com/Article_2.html
cliffs, ventless makes moisture. Because it is a closed system the vapor is trapped.
If you keep constant temps low and open door or windows sometimes you'll be fine. Like parking a car in the garage daily should be good enough I'd think.
I had a propane torpedo heater before and when I would use that I would crack a window while it was going. No issues.
If you keep constant temps low and open door or windows sometimes you'll be fine. Like parking a car in the garage daily should be good enough I'd think.
I had a propane torpedo heater before and when I would use that I would crack a window while it was going. No issues.
Let's talk about your gas line. Size location and ability to T off of it. etc....
Gas is a volume based not pressure based item. So to have enough gas to run multiple BTU appliances you need to have a fat pipe as the pressure is static and quite low on NG. Also the longer the run the larger the pipe needed.
Don't get scared on me.
Gas is a volume based not pressure based item. So to have enough gas to run multiple BTU appliances you need to have a fat pipe as the pressure is static and quite low on NG. Also the longer the run the larger the pipe needed.
Don't get scared on me.
ya my uncle uses a torpedo style kerosene heater and only opens the garage door like 15% for ventilation, i'm pretty god damn skeptical about the whole breathing that in and your eyes watering concept
I think he has a natural gas heater ready to be installed though.
This is the one I have. It works awesome in my oversized 2.5 car garage.
Previously I had a vent free heater that worked well, but I got sick of the condensation and humidity in the garage. My garage is insulated and sealed up pretty well, so the condensation was bad enough that I had water droplets on my cars and tools.
Also, if anyone is interested, I have a house furnace just removed from my home. It worked fine, but we replaced it with a more efficient unit. It's about 17 years old. If anyone wants it, $150 picked up in the south suburbs. It's an updraft setup and I have the plenum for it, so it would be easy to make a simple diffuser or duct setup for garage use. It's an 80k btu natural gas unit.
way to do it.
Let's talk about your gas line. Size location and ability to T off of it. etc....
Gas is a volume based not pressure based item. So to have enough gas to run multiple BTU appliances you need to have a fat pipe as the pressure is static and quite low on NG. Also the longer the run the larger the pipe needed.
Don't get scared on me.
Interesting...need to keep this chart in mind when I go to change my range from electric to gas. I've got a 3/4" line running off the main/post meter, that's underground, around the house, and to the fireplace. Always wondered if I could tee off that line, as it goes along the wall where my range would be...was just concerned about sizing...whether 3/4" would suffice for a standard range/oven combo. Doubt I'd even run the gas on the fireplace the same time as the range/oven, so it's a non-factor.
This is the biggest issue when homeowners go from a tank to a tankless. Lots of times you don't get enough gas, usually an issue for people with long runs.
I am one of those as I have a ranch home with attached garage so my meter is far from my utility room. For me to go tankless I would need a fresh run of like 1 1/4" pipe. nothanksobama. Then there are the vent upgrades, yuck.
I am one of those as I have a ranch home with attached garage so my meter is far from my utility room. For me to go tankless I would need a fresh run of like 1 1/4" pipe. nothanksobama. Then there are the vent upgrades, yuck.
Let's talk about your gas line. Size location and ability to T off of it. etc....
Gas is a volume based not pressure based item. So to have enough gas to run multiple BTU appliances you need to have a fat pipe as the pressure is static and quite low on NG. Also the longer the run the larger the pipe needed.
Don't get scared on me.
I can look up what Nicor charged me to upgrade my main
they don't trench it in, they drill horizontally, I missed being able to watch the install at my place but I think it was something like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DPdVor8UqU
They make tankless heaters that condense and only need PVC for the venting too....
Other than that is double wall stainless needed if memory serves?
Either one of those are not what I have now. I have the little hat that shares with my furnace so no go for tankless.
But you are right on both they do have both models as far as what I have seen. Not sure what the difference is, I think it may be efficiency? aka heat out the exhaust...
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