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BUILD Taws697's 1963 Biscayne Build! the anti-swap. Engine updates on page 5


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taws697

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Wow! just seeing this thread now. Amazing work man. Love that your doing it all yourself too
Thanks. I spend more time googling/YouTubing “how-to’s” than I care to admit:ROFLMAO:.

Damn!

I can’t wait to hear your thoughts on the trans/rear end combo. I’ve got an m21 and 3.55’s for my Buick because the trans was a screaming deal but an m20 might be a better choice.
Yea my m21/4.11’s should make for a fun car around town and at the strip. Unfortunately it will not care for highway speeds. An m20/3.55 setup would probably be ideal for a street car. Nice 1st gear ratio for minimum clutch slippage while still having reasonable highway rpm.
 

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Thanks. I spend more time googling/YouTubing “how-to’s” than I care to admit:ROFLMAO:.


Yea my m21/4.11’s should make for a fun car around town and at the strip. Unfortunately it will not care for highway speeds. An m20/3.55 setup would probably be ideal for a street car. Nice 1st gear ratio for minimum clutch slippage while still having reasonable highway rpm.
I have my fingers crossed my 455 low end torque won’t make it terrible in first. We’ll see.
 
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how hard would it be to stuff a T56 in there?
I’ve seen it done before. It requires some tunnel modification and a kit to move the shifter location forward. One tricky thing is figuring out the 2 piece driveshaft setup because the T56 is so long. X-frames are a pita when it comes to driveline stuff.
 

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I was able to sneak out to the garage this weekend. I didn’t accomplish a whole lot, but at least it’s something. I installed the lifters, pushrods, and rockers. The cam card calls for .014” valve lash when hot. I temporarily set them at .009” since the engine was cold. I also drilled and tapped a 1/2npt hole for the heater hose in a factory location. I had to plug some of the other unused holes in the manifold. After that, I got the manifold on and torqued down. My snake camera wound up being super useful in getting the intake ports lined up.
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Now I need to get it prepped for paint and install the aluminum water pump and harmonic balancer.
 
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I’ve been slowly bolting parts on to the 327 which has been quite satisfying. I installed an aluminum summit racing water pump, 6.5 GM performance balancer, pulleys, fan clutch, and fan. Unfortunately the pulleys didn’t quite line up, so I wound up shimming out the crank pulley. I also painted the valve covers and Lakewood scatter shield that I picked up. At that point I went ahead and installed the oil fill tube, dipstick tube, heater hose barbs, Prothane motor mounts, and oil filter. For fun I threw on one of the headers. Once I’m sure they clear the frame, I’ll send them out to be jet-hot coated in a cast iron gray color.
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I’m waiting on the 327 “TurboFire” stickers that go on the top of the valve covers. Then I will install them and the 300hp stickers that go on the side of the valve covers.
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I also picked up a correct 63 shifter setup.(Rod, ball, and boot.) It should bolt up to my Hurst Comp shifter.
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After playing with the gearing calculator that
Jeffs FRC posted on greasy’s thread, I realized that I might need 4.56’s. I’m dreaming of trapping like 110-115 and with 4.11’s I’ll be right on the rev limiter in 3rd. I could go down to a 26” tire but I love the way it looks with a 28 stuffed under it.
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The engine looks good.

That is a lot of gear to cruise around with. What does the calculator look like with the 26" tire. On the track the 26" tire would be more efficient due to weight and rolling resistance. I like the look of 28's stuffed in the wheel well. But for the track and street, the current gear with the 26" tire for the track may be a better option.
 
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The engine looks good.

That is a lot of gear to cruise around with. What does the calculator look like with the 26" tire. On the track the 26" tire would be more efficient due to weight and rolling resistance. I like the look of 28's stuffed in the wheel well. But for the track and street, the current gear with the 26" tire for the track may be a better option.
Here’s a graph with 4.11’s and 26’s:
5AA3E220-E558-4808-B9B8-1448B63E28E4.png

Its fairly close to 4.56’s with 28’s. I have to purchase a ring and pinion either way. What you’re saying about the rotating mass and rolling resistance makes sense though.
 

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4:56 is a lot on the street for SBC..4:11 should be ok...your doing very well with the swap
my SBC with 4:11 ran 55mph @ 3krpm...similar set up..just a thought...i could be very wrong...but thats what happened..highway sucked at 55 mph

4:11 will max out 1/4 mile...just an Old School guy here with SBC 350/420hp
 

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"Ideal" on track would be the 4.56 and 26" tire. In 1:1 you would be looking at about 118 mph at 7,000. RIght at the high side of what you hope to trap.

So maybe the 4.56 and 26" tires for the track and the 28" tires for the street is the hot ticket. It'll feel zippy on the street. But cruising rpm is what you would have to look at with that combo.
 

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Some rough numbers to think about.

4.56 and 28" tall tire
45mph @ 2500 rpm
55mph @ 3000 rpm
65mph @ 3550 rpm.


4.11 and 28" tall tire
45mph @ 2200 rpm
55mph @ 2700 rpm
65mph @ 3200 rpm


The lack of OD hurts these cold cars for sure.
 
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"Ideal" on track would be the 4.56 and 26" tire. In 1:1 you would be looking at about 118 mph at 7,000. RIght at the high side of what you hope to trap.

So maybe the 4.56 and 26" tires for the track and the 28" tires for the street is the hot ticket. It'll feel zippy on the street. But cruising rpm is what you would have to look at with that combo.
I think you’re right, that sounds ideal. I’d like to participate in some nostalgic drag racing events. For those I could throw a 26 on. Outside of that, I’d cruise around on 28’s. That would put me at 3k doing 55mph. Just fast enough to not get road raged off of rt.64. 😂
 

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