My Turbo LS1 Trans-Am build

[willizm]

Looks like a fun build

I was poking around Kentucky Turbo a little while back and saw they have a kit that works with air conditioning. Very interesting. I've also read a lot of good things about them on LS1Tech.

Brandon has already made his presence in this thread, but I can vouch for the quality of his work as well. Modern Muscle tuned my car initially, and Brandon improved on the tune immensely.

yup, that is the kit I'm getting. The T4 TC78 A/C kit. We will see how well it works. My intention is to keep everything. A/C, Power steering, with minimal relocation and modification. I'm planning on standing up the radiator with a Griffen, but not sure how the A/C condensor is going to sit. One of those "i'll see when I get there" kinda things.

 

[Eagle]

It's getting solid linked LCAs and PHB ordered this week, so the suspension will be 100% chromoly with spherical bearing rod ends. Should help it track straight - right now it takes a bit more steering than I'd like...

 

[Pressure Ratio]

Yeah. A boring, strait line drive is my preferred method to get down the track. haha

 

[skeezer]

What does Brandon tune with and can he give me a base tune flash so that I can drive the car in? I'm doing all the install stuff at home, but can't fire it up with the injectors until I get a tune for it. Plus I want to make sure everything is running right before getting it dyno tuned.

You can put your chips on Brandon for tuning. After all, he has tuned the quickest LS1 car on this site (at least that I know of).

 

[Mook]

You can put your chips on Brandon for tuning. After all, he has tuned the quickest LS1 car on this site (at least that I know of).

 

[Pressure Ratio]

LOL @ Mook's gif

You can put your chips on Brandon for tuning. After all, he has tuned the quickest LS1 car on this site (at least that I know of).

Who dat? lol

 

[Fast Motorsports]

There are a few quick ls based cars on this site that my fingers have touched the computer on. Then quite a few other single digit ls based cars and soon to be trucks in this area and across the country now as well.

 

[Jean Ralphio]

low psi turbo > bottle

After all, he has tuned the quickest LS1 car on this site (at least that I know of).

 

[willizm]

There are a few quick ls based cars on this site that my fingers have touched the computer on. Then quite a few other single digit ls based cars and soon to be trucks in this area and across the country now as well.

Where abouts were you located? Do you have a shop I can stop by and visit sometime?

 

[willizm]

Eagle, did you keep A/C in your setup?

Also, did do you recommend doing some ARP rod bolts on a stock LS1? I'll have the oil pan off anyway and should have access to get to them. I hear the stock bolts are junk and extra secuirity to put in some nice ARP's.

 

[Eagle]

No, I didn't keep my AC. I used 6.0 manifolds reversed into a custom merge into a T4 flange. Unfortunately, the manifold went right through where the compressor sat.

I ALWAYS recommend ARP rod bolts if you're there and can get to them easily. If you don't, it is only a matter of time until you spin a rod bearing making any kind of power.

Are you also installing ARP head studs, or is that later when you go to a forged SB?

 

[Fast Motorsports]

I am located in algonquin. Your more than welcome to give me a buzz and we can meet up and chat. I have dyno access in Stcharles and now in melrose park

 

[willizm]

No, I didn't keep my AC. I used 6.0 manifolds reversed into a custom merge into a T4 flange. Unfortunately, the manifold went right through where the compressor sat.

I ALWAYS recommend ARP rod bolts if you're there and can get to them easily. If you don't, it is only a matter of time until you spin a rod bearing making any kind of power.

Are you also installing ARP head studs, or is that later when you go to a forged SB?

No head studs for this build. Just pushing 8lbs for now and next winter I may swap out for a forged 370 short block or something. Haven't really decided yet. I just know that I'm going to want to crank up the boost later. It's inevitable. I'm looking to do the rod bolts just for that added piece of mind until I figure out my next step. My car only has 62K miles on it and the engine is original.

I am located in algonquin. Your more than welcome to give me a buzz and we can meet up and chat. I have dyno access in Stcharles and now in melrose park

You know one of the things that has me a bit concerned with my build is that this is the first turbo build I or my brother in law have attempted. If you have the experience, I wouldn't mind paying for a second opinion on how the setup looks once we get the install done.

 

[Fast Motorsports]

Just give me a buzz... my number is on my site. We can work something out. Wouldnt be the first nor the last KYTP kit I have worked with

 

[willizm]

Hey Brandon, i heard nothing but praise about your work. I'm coming your way for a tune. So, this leads me to my next set of questions while I wait for my turbo kit. I'm considering picking up some 317 truck heads as I hear they flow good and help to drop a little compression. What is your take on using those heads with my basically stock ls1(with cam)?

So what of map sensors? I'm only pushing 8-10 lbs of boost initially and heard that a 1 bar map sensor that comes stock is good enough.
Do I need a 2 bar and OS to run 8-10 lbs?

If you guys had an extra 1k to spend on other stuff for this build, what would you consider? A refurbed set of 317 heads is $300. I'm also thinking about getting some ARP head bolts and rod bolts, head gaskets, and one of those boost/vacuum manifolds like the Blox one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLOX...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1790f3db

Eagle, what all did you end up hooking up to your vacuum manifold(boost gauge, hobbs switch for second fuel pump)?

 

[Fast Motorsports]

317's have been used for lowering compression to make motors a little more pump gas friendly in the higher boost levels and flow basically the same as the 243's.

1 bar map sensor DOESN'T read boost so you are relying on the maf only to read the airflow. It would be best to do a 2bar OS since you will max out the maf with 8-10psi.

ARP hardware especially head bolts/studs is a great idea for added clamping force.

Eagle used a vacuum block similar to that but he can chime in with the exact one

 

[willizm]

Cool, eagle was saying I should get a 2bar too. If I'm having you tune the car, is there any particular sensor that works best? Also, how do I get the OS or does that come with the sensor? Sounds like for what I want to do going with 317's right now isn't ideal. With the arp head and rod bolts do you think I can safetly go with 10lbs on the stock bottem end or stay around 8lbs?

 

[Fast Motorsports]

The GM 2bar map that is found on the TTA and SYTY's is what you need.

The OS is something that I convert the car over to when it comes time to tune it. YOU CANNOT RUN the car on a 2bar map and a stock OS. That is something that is factored in the cost of me tuning the car.

I wouldnt worry about 10psi on a stock bottom end with good hardware

 

[willizm]

Yeah, I don't mind pushing some mote boost if it just requires a few bits for safety(arp bolts). I'll pick up a 2bar. After I do the install I'll just hold off installing the injectors and map sensor until I can get you to update the PCM. Typically when guys do this sort of setup do they install the kit/cam, start the car to make sure everything is ok, have you flash PCM, install injectors and map sensor, perform tuning magic? Is that te typical order of things you find?

 

[Eagle]

...one of those boost/vacuum manifolds like the Blox one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLOX...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1790f3db

Eagle, what all did you end up hooking up to your vacuum manifold(boost gauge, hobbs switch for second fuel pump)?

That's exactly the right thing.

 

[Fast Motorsports]

Honestly its alot of back and forth when someone builds a car then needs to start it the first time.

I will need a full list of mods first then have you bring me the PCM. I will then put a base tune in it so you can start it with the new injectors and map to just get it started and check for leaks. Then I always advise the car to be towed to the shop just to be safe, then we finish the tune on the dyno and then street.

 

[Pressure Ratio]

Check out Mcmaster.com for the vacuum block. Search "air manifold". You can get them in different materials, inlet size, outlet sizes, hole spacing, etc. I have used them on cars for years. I get them with a couple more holes than I think I need and just block them off. That way if I need to add an additional source down the road I am covered.

 

[willizm]

Hey Brandon, I'll get that mod list together shortly. I was a little confused about the 317 comment. It seems like something that will help bring down a little compression and help flow. Is it worth doing and tuning for to put the 317's on a stock bore ls1? I'm going to get those arp head studs and some nice MLS gaskets. The heads are ridiculously cheap for a refurb. Hell the studs cost damn near the same price as a set of heads.

 

[willizm]

ok with some slight arm twisting and a lenient wallet I picked up some more things for my build. Still haven't decided on the 317 heads. They are pretty damn cheap for heads and should drop my compression a bit.

ARP Pro Head Studs
2bar map sensor
Blox Vacuum Manifold
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Assembly Lube
SLP underdrive pulley
UD Pulley Belts

 

[Eagle]

You want them!