🔧 BUILD My 2011 Ford Expedition Limited
- Thread starter rowekmr
- Start date
Step 1 buying parts by scouring salvage yards online or buying new OEM if I have to. The hoods are ridiculously expensive (like MKS headlamps) no wonder they totalled this. They are $800+ used with corrosion!!!
But I found a no picture in post short to text and didn’t like taking pictures guy last night who had one for $110 after he tried selling me a Navigator hood. Both were never on driven vehicle his old job bought new vehicles to design they’d aftermarket glass so it sat in his barn for like 12 years! I got it at 10:40pm for $110 and it was painted white. An no I didn’t haggle with him on price. Actually didn’t have proper change so he happily took $109 but I found $1 in truck and gave it to him after he said that’s okay.
I gotta figure out how to remove the gooseneck ball hitch in bed. Called previous owner he said “Dunno…didn’t know it came out”
But I found a no picture in post short to text and didn’t like taking pictures guy last night who had one for $110 after he tried selling me a Navigator hood. Both were never on driven vehicle his old job bought new vehicles to design they’d aftermarket glass so it sat in his barn for like 12 years! I got it at 10:40pm for $110 and it was painted white. An no I didn’t haggle with him on price. Actually didn’t have proper change so he happily took $109 but I found $1 in truck and gave it to him after he said that’s okay.
I gotta figure out how to remove the gooseneck ball hitch in bed. Called previous owner he said “Dunno…didn’t know it came out”
Turns out hood is mint. I’m glad I put up with the sellers lack of willingness to take pics. It only has 2 very small nicks. Most used hoods this vintage have corrosion or paint separation. It’s not white pearl like my truck but my paint guy mostly always paint anyway. I call him an “artist”
Found this chrome (plastic) grille with no corrosion or cracks.
I normally buy new Keystone CAPA certified because I don’t typically have the time to scout for used parts but this time I am trying to find good used OEM parts.
Teardown started. While replacing damaged parts turns out some were already replaced used parts (previous damage) with yellow numbers on them. I see this often on salvaged vehicles with minimal damage. After a few accidents sometimes they get totalled. In this case no damage to frame just structural parts that can be easily replaced.
Replaced upper radiator support. I prefer factory because it’s a critical piece that ties in the lights and front body panels. Poorer quality ones will have body panels misaligned and/or headlights shaking over bumps.
Bunch of Info;
They ALL have Exhaust Stud issues, my 2014 had the passenger side done early this year, it will need the Driver side done soon (124 on the Odo of my EL)
They ALL have Timing Set issues; the revised ones in like 2011 are MUCH better, but they all need it eventually, its basically a service/wear item when they crack 100K miles. My truck has a moment of rattle on dead cold start after sitting a week, but continues to solder on nicely with no misses or weird rattles; I'll get around to doing it or having it done in spring.
They ALL are prone to Cam follower failure; I lost one on my passenger bank while out of state. Truck made it back home 1000 miles while towing a trailer. Replaced all the followers, lifters, and the cam itself with 2 oil changes nearly back to back after for less than $500 and under 2 hours. The timing lock tool is like $30 and the follower removal tool is also like $30, both make the job VERY VERY easy and quick, if you plan on keeping the truck for long trips and hauling, its pretty cheap insurance to replace the followers and lifters before they fail (Under like $300 to replace both sides if your cams look good). Be gentle with the VCT Solenoid or it will suddenly become a more expensive date.
They ALL have running board failure; I replaced mine with "HD Ridez" brand which I think look killer on the truck and the install was reasonably easy and well reviewed on Ebay.
The factory nav/backup camera is still trash honestly, but you can mod the backup camera wire in the dash to work on a standard A/V Plug easily to work with aftermarket units to give you Apple Carplay.
There is only one quality option for tow mirrors as a heads up; and they are $325+, they are not interchangeable with Super duties.
Congrats on the puchase!
That all being said; 2011-2014 was the "Right" year to buy IMO; the Ecoboost are MUCH more punchy, but they are all Gen1 trucks until 2018, and the 2018+ seem to have even more timing chain issues than the 2011-2014 V8's do......
They ALL have Exhaust Stud issues, my 2014 had the passenger side done early this year, it will need the Driver side done soon (124 on the Odo of my EL)
They ALL have Timing Set issues; the revised ones in like 2011 are MUCH better, but they all need it eventually, its basically a service/wear item when they crack 100K miles. My truck has a moment of rattle on dead cold start after sitting a week, but continues to solder on nicely with no misses or weird rattles; I'll get around to doing it or having it done in spring.
They ALL are prone to Cam follower failure; I lost one on my passenger bank while out of state. Truck made it back home 1000 miles while towing a trailer. Replaced all the followers, lifters, and the cam itself with 2 oil changes nearly back to back after for less than $500 and under 2 hours. The timing lock tool is like $30 and the follower removal tool is also like $30, both make the job VERY VERY easy and quick, if you plan on keeping the truck for long trips and hauling, its pretty cheap insurance to replace the followers and lifters before they fail (Under like $300 to replace both sides if your cams look good). Be gentle with the VCT Solenoid or it will suddenly become a more expensive date.
They ALL have running board failure; I replaced mine with "HD Ridez" brand which I think look killer on the truck and the install was reasonably easy and well reviewed on Ebay.
The factory nav/backup camera is still trash honestly, but you can mod the backup camera wire in the dash to work on a standard A/V Plug easily to work with aftermarket units to give you Apple Carplay.
There is only one quality option for tow mirrors as a heads up; and they are $325+, they are not interchangeable with Super duties.
Congrats on the puchase!
That all being said; 2011-2014 was the "Right" year to buy IMO; the Ecoboost are MUCH more punchy, but they are all Gen1 trucks until 2018, and the 2018+ seem to have even more timing chain issues than the 2011-2014 V8's do......
Funny I just stumbled on your thread before I read this and I like you how modded yours.
What was the symptoms of the cam follower failure?
I had studs and manifolds replaced on these and Explorer 4.6l 3v I’ve owned. I had FordTechMakuloco do them for me since these engines are his specialty and he’s cheaper than dealer cause I’m definitely not a wrencher like you. This one doesn’t have any exhaust leak sound (yet). I crossed my fingers at first cold start because the valve train and exhaust leak noise are sounds of money leaving my bank account lol.
I’ve owned a few 5.4l 3v the only one that gave me big issues was last one (2009) with 147k miles yet it still was a tank. Like you said I’ve found the timing components are wearable components that’s why I wanted one with low miles this time. The start up rattle I never had but last one had the rough idle at operating temp that VCT solenoids and new plugs/coils helped but I had to go to thicker oil to solve. I also had one that had the cam phaser knock sound at idle but it also served me well.
My running boards do not move I suspect they are unplugged but I’ll see what they need when it gets out of shop. I see there are aftermarket running board motor assemblies now so that might be my route although sometimes the hinges are just gummed up with debris and haven’t been lubricated. I’ll look into the ones you installed also.
I needed something to drive down to FL in Dec so I figured this project fit the bill. I tow occasionally but won’t go heavy with this one since it doesn’t have the rear air suspension. I’ve owned a few older Suburban 2500 with the 7.4l but they’re aged by now and hard to find now and the newer ones are horribly expensive. Maybe one day I’ll try a Suburban/Yukon 1500 with the 5.3l or 6.0l.
The aftermarket running board motors are hot garbage I’ve read, that’s why I just went right for static ones.
The truck had killed a passenger cat before my ownership, but that’s a symptom of follower failure apparently (rich/lean conditions because the valves aren’t quite opening right/enough).
Headlights came in (look really nice for $235) and the hood is mounted. Should be ready in a few days. I checked and running boards are plugged on so will have to double check they are turned on. Completely forgot the rear wiper is seized (common) so I’ll order those parts from Ford soon.
I picked it up and like how it turned out. The (cheaper) lights really look distinctive. I think it needs front sway bar links and of course the forgotten rear wiper and 1 TPMS sensor for finishing.
Now it’s unto converting the salvage title to rebuilt.
Now it’s unto converting the salvage title to rebuilt.
I noticed when braking kinda hard it would subtly pull right then left then centered. My previous Exp did same but we chased it down first with pads/rotors then with calipers then hoses. It took 3-4 times to shop for that and buying those parts piece by piece from Advance because we needed it now was expensive. This time ordered the PowerStop X36 kit from CarID who had cheapest price (960) plus $60 rebate and free shipping. This included all pads, rotors, calipers and I had 4 new hoses leftover from previous one because we couldn’t wait for Ford delivery and went to Advance. I also replaced front end links, lower steering shaft and got a 4 wheel alignment and it’s good now. Almost forgot we did replace rear wiper motor, striker, and arm because winter is coming. Next it’s chasing down the TPMS light and powered running boards.
Thanks! My finicky mechanic commented on the quality of the Powerstop components and all together I saved prolly $300-500 over Advance parts even with their 15-20% online coupons. Ford parts little more on pads and rotors but they’re caliper prices are outrageous! Last time on the 09 ExpeditionI had some quality control issues with calipers that mech had to use grinder to get to work. Plus I love the painted caliper look. I’ll prolly order these for any subsequent projects.
Yeah these are towing beast I really like their versatility. What do you tow with yours?
Well I guess I have to end this thread early. My trip to FL got cancelled and a car enthusiast friend of mines fell in love with it and bought it from me [emoji17]. I did an synthetic oil change, air filter, clean MAF and replaced front wipers to get it ready for him.
I forgot to mention earlier that this had only 94k miles on it which is what really make me want it in first place. Now I have to look for a fuel efficient AWD/4wd for winter transportation project…
I forgot to mention earlier that this had only 94k miles on it which is what really make me want it in first place. Now I have to look for a fuel efficient AWD/4wd for winter transportation project…
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