• Hi Guest, welcome to TCG 2.0. Please refer to the FAQ in User Support before you do anything else. It will make the transition MUCH easier.

    IF YOU ARE SEEING AN "OOPS" ERROR PAGE, IT IS LIKELY BECAUSE YOUR BROWSER HAS NOT UPDATED YOUR CACHE. YOU CAN EITHER CLICK FORUMS AT THE TOP LEFT OR VISIT THECHICAGOGARAGE.COM AND BOOKMARK THAT. - Love, Mook

Increasing brake pedal pressure

PANDA

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
34,200
Reaction score
25
Location
FRG
My brake pedal doesn't feel as firm as it should be (and used to be).

Setup - Front LS1 calipers/rotors, hawk pads
Rear stock calipers/rotors, hawk pads

Repairs - Recently, rotors, pads and brake hardware, were changed. The EBTCM was replaced, as well as a full brake fluid change. After, the whole brake system was bleed.

Anything I can do to increase the brake pedal pressure/firmness? I was told my master cylinder could be weak.
 

ilikemtb999

I eat dirt
Donating Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
69,033
Reaction score
172
Location
Denver, CO
The ls1 calipers always felt spongy to me but seems you've got another problem. Are you running rubber lines still or do you have stainless? I'd say check all your lines.
 

Eagle

Nemo me impune lacessit
Super Moderator
Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
62,545
Reaction score
19
Location
Woodsticks, IL
I'd bleed it again. Guessing you have air in the lines somewhere if its spongier than it used to be.
 

PANDA

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
34,200
Reaction score
25
Location
FRG
The ls1 calipers always felt spongy to me but seems you've got another problem. Are you running rubber lines still or do you have stainless? I'd say check all your lines.
stock rubber. Lines were checked out by a "professional" they are said to be fine.

I'd bleed it again. Guessing you have air in the lines somewhere if its spongier than it used to be.
It was actually done 3 times in the past month or so. :ugh:
 

ktraver97ss

I say what everyone thinks
Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
13,446
Reaction score
23
Location
Roselle, IL
They may be in decent condition, but they still expand when you apply pressure to the brake. SS braided lines will eliminate that completely.
 

ilikemtb999

I eat dirt
Donating Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
69,033
Reaction score
172
Location
Denver, CO
I'd invest in some stainless lines just to get rid of the "normal" soft feel.

So 3 bleeds and it still feels crappy? Did it feel good right after a bleed?
 

PANDA

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
34,200
Reaction score
25
Location
FRG
It felt better before all the brake work lol

All I hear is nightmares about stainless lines, that it what turns me away.
 

ilikemtb999

I eat dirt
Donating Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
69,033
Reaction score
172
Location
Denver, CO
Could also be an internal leak starting on your master. I had that in my civic and it was real spongy unless I pumped it a few times. Does it just feel worse than before or like worse than most cars should feel?

I think somethings broken. Buy stainless lines.
 

PANDA

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
34,200
Reaction score
25
Location
FRG
Could also be an internal leak starting on your master. I had that in my civic and it was real spongy unless I pumped it a few times. Does it just feel worse than before or like worse than most cars should feel?

I think somethings broken. Buy stainless lines.
Its weird with the car off and you pumping it never really gets firm.
 

EmersonHart13

Member Selfie
Donating Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
46,345
Reaction score
369
Sounds like something is leaky then... It should definitely firm up.
 

Eagle

Nemo me impune lacessit
Super Moderator
Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
62,545
Reaction score
19
Location
Woodsticks, IL
Details details.... :rofl:

If the master is leaking, you should be able to find the fluid exiting the system somewhere... :confused:

I'd pop the wheels off and with the car running have someone STAND on the brakes and look over the rubbers to see if they're expanding/bulging anywhere. :dunno:
 

ilikemtb999

I eat dirt
Donating Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
69,033
Reaction score
172
Location
Denver, CO
Remember the master could also be leaking internally. That means no visible fluid loss.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

Welllllllllll ya knowwwwwww.....
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
26,499
Reaction score
12
Location
hangover park IL
yeah internalk bypass is the molst common you can at the least see moisture at the back of the piston.

more than lekely you have air in your master cylinder, when the ebtcm was replaced they got air into it and an in car bleed short of full blown bleeding isnt gonna get it out
rubber hose do expand but to the point where it makes a large impression on your effort it's usually thinkin about poping the next time you panic stop. stainless brake hoses are plenty reliable, you just have to check and double check routing, them fuckers will rub through the side of a strut till the strut pops, besides plenty of manufacturers use them nowadays (ahem your car) as ususual though DOT approval process is a pita.

there's always hydroboost
i wanna put astro hydroboost on the wagon to get rid of the vacum booster
 

The Broken Regal

BITE BITE, SIP SIP
Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
14,726
Reaction score
14
Location
Wheaton
get yourself some c5 calipers and pop those on!

the piston area on the f-bodies is slightly bigger than stock, I have the #s somewhere on my computer, the c5 calipers are slightly smaller which would need less fluid movement and therefore less pedal travel and provide greater feel
 

Ron Vogel

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2007
Messages
3,677
Reaction score
3
Location
Bolingbrook
When I did a portion of the brakes it seemed the pedal was soft. The lines aren't leaking, but it could be a bunch of different things. I manually flushed the system out (Before the EBTCM was done)...the fluid was dark green, and lots of chunky bits came out. I think the lines are OK, but SS lines would be a good idea for those LS1 claipers if you can get a trustworthy set.

I'm not sugessting throwing money at the problem, but it is probably due for a master. I can see the debris in your system causing a problem. Even the resivour was caked on the inside.
 

PANDA

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
34,200
Reaction score
25
Location
FRG
Details details.... :rofl:

If the master is leaking, you should be able to find the fluid exiting the system somewhere... :confused:

I'd pop the wheels off and with the car running have someone STAND on the brakes and look over the rubbers to see if they're expanding/bulging anywhere. :dunno:
I told the mechanic to checkout the lines when they replaced me EBTCM, he said they were fine. I would assume he did something of that nature to make that determination.

What kind of nightmares?
Leakage I'm going to guess. I know a few people who bought some and had nothing but problems.

yeah internalk bypass is the molst common you can at the least see moisture at the back of the piston.

more than lekely you have air in your master cylinder, when the ebtcm was replaced they got air into it and an in car bleed short of full blown bleeding isnt gonna get it out
rubber hose do expand but to the point where it makes a large impression on your effort it's usually thinkin about poping the next time you panic stop. stainless brake hoses are plenty reliable, you just have to check and double check routing, them fuckers will rub through the side of a strut till the strut pops, besides plenty of manufacturers use them nowadays (ahem your car) as ususual though DOT approval process is a pita.

there's always hydroboost
i wanna put astro hydroboost on the wagon to get rid of the vacum booster
So maybe I should go back and ask them to re-bleed the system?

When I did a portion of the brakes it seemed the pedal was soft. The lines aren't leaking, but it could be a bunch of different things. I manually flushed the system out (Before the EBTCM was done)...the fluid was dark green, and lots of chunky bits came out. I think the lines are OK, but SS lines would be a good idea for those LS1 claipers if you can get a trustworthy set.

I'm not sugessting throwing money at the problem, but it is probably due for a master. I can see the debris in your system causing a problem. Even the resivour was caked on the inside.
What is involved with replacing the master cylinder?
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account on our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Top Bottom