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I have an oil leak that won't stop!!!

Ron Vogel

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On my L67, it's leaking pretty bad...about a quart or even a little more a week. I took off the pan, resealed it and the TC with all new gaskets, and did the rtv thing to seal it against submarine style adventures...still leaked. Last night I redid the rear VC, and it didn't help; although it was a shot in the dark anyway (and I found a bad wire going to injector #3). The leak leaves the bellows for the rack wet, as well as the subframe below it, and the CV joint. I can't see anywhere where it could possibly be coming from...and am dreading the possibility of having to tear the TC off for the 3rd time.

Oil level doesn't seem to affect it, so it's probably pressure related somehow. The oil pump extension was sealed with a stock gasket, and permanent permtex sealer. At cold start-up I get some clacking from the lifters not pumping up for about 2-3 seconds. I was thinking a possible head gasket problem, but I don't see that making sense with the oil pressure indicators. Car has about 150-160K on the clock right now...almost ready to just shitcan this motor...it would probably be cheaper to just swap in a new long block if I keep having to wrench on this thing.

Bear in mind this this has been raced...a lot. I ran 16+ pounds of boost and 22-24 degrees of timing for many years. I haven't done a compression test, but I got roughly the same leakage from all cylinders recently when I pumped up the motor to hold the valves while changing the valve seals. The motor is definately tired, but is fine for a DD. I just want to get this leak located.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

DanJoy

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So it's normal for it to leak some when you pump up the cylinders to hold the valves up? Where does it leak from BTW?
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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hey ron unplug your oil pressure sensor and check for oil in the end of the connector....alot of them fuckers bypass internally and push past the GM weatherpack electrical connector
 

Ron Vogel

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hey ron unplug your oil pressure sensor and check for oil in the end of the connector....alot of them fuckers bypass internally and push past the GM weatherpack electrical connector
I'll check that out, I really don't want to pull the TC again.
 

02BlueGT

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I know you probably already checked, but did you check the oil filter and it's gasket?

Is it possible you have a cracked head/block?

What about the filter extension, if it is leaking on the back edge you might not see it Or is it cracked?

Only a few places for pressurized oil to leak from a L67

and what james said
 

Ron Vogel

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Well the fact that the oil pressure is down for that first few seconds at start-up makes me think it has something to do with that oil-pump extension. If it were the TC, I imagine it would be a steady leak that starved for pressure all the time. I'll defiately check that sensor in the morning. I'm pretty sure the connector is coated in oil.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Well the fact that the oil pressure is down for that first few seconds at start-up makes me think it has something to do with that oil-pump extension. If it were the TC, I imagine it would be a steady leak that starved for pressure all the time. I'll defiately check that sensor in the morning. I'm pretty sure the connector is coated in oil.
meh it's probably just the extra bearing clearance from a well broken in 3800 lol

is the ticking from the front bank lifters or the rear? front bank (135) gets oil last... any chance that an errant peice of rtv/etc got into the TC block oil inlet/lateral passage?

if your unsure brake clean and blow it and the sensor connector insides and reconnect and test drive for 15-30 min

seems like just looking at tyhat damn sensor wrong will cause em to leak past the diaphram
 
S

Scott5

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Might be cheaper to just dump in a quart of oil once a week...and a lot less hassle.
 

DanJoy

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That would be a good recommendation from someone who sells oil for a living :mamoru:. I think fixing it once and being done with it would be a lot more practical and would spare him from having a mess in his driveway. I would also be concerned about a potential drop in oil pressure from this leak.
 
S

Scott5

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That would be a good recommendation from someone who sells oil for a living :mamoru:. I think fixing it once and being done with it would be a lot more practical and would spare him from having a mess in his driveway. I would also be concerned about a potential drop in oil pressure from this leak.
Nah, it wouldn't be too cost effective to be dumping a quart of Amsoil in every week. Just use the Wal Mart cheap stuff and it will be far less costly and less hassle, especially since the original poster said this engine was on its last legs. I'd guess it's been using petroleum oils or one of the cheapo pretend-it's-a-synthetic oils.
 

Ron Vogel

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Yeah, the driveway looks like shit...and the kids track it all over the place. It has to get fixed. I have a list of suspension things I want to start on next, but I want to deal with the motor first.

This car was sitting for a year, I just recently started driving it because my wife's van got totalled.

Btw, car came out pretty clean.
 
S

Scott5

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If you go to a professional auto parts store, (like NAPA or Car Quest), you can get an oil leak detector kit, where you add a phosphorescent dye to the oil and run the car for a few days. Then, you use a black/neon light to look under the hood and anywhere you see a bright green, phosphorescent glow, bingo, there's your oil leak.

I hope your wife was okay in the accident with the van?
 

ilikemtb999

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I have a brand new gm oil pressure switch. I'll trade you for those ground cables.
 

bikrboy128

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shoot me a PM if you want to get the car in the air to take a good look underneath.
 

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