Build Boostie’s 1987 Notchback

[Chris91LX]

Looks badass. Who's tubular front end kit is that?

 

[Boostie]

Chris91LX the company is Codion https://codionmotorsports.com/shop/ols/products/87-93-mustang-welded-front-end-kit

 

[BOTTLEFED]

Off the top of my head the doors were around 33lbs total. The front end was kinda disappointing at only around 20lbs, but I forgot that I had the motion raceworks radiator mount which probably shaved weight off stock and the forward facing impact shock absorbers were cut off and no crash bar. From a factory setuo
I’m sure more would be lost. The tube front end only weighed 25lbs total

Hey any weight off is good!@

 

[Boostie]

Some youboob stuff If yall bored

 

[Boostie]

More pointless updates.


Finished welding up the front end and painting the engine bay again. This included hiding my mac valves under the fender, brackets for the intercooler, mounting the horn and bolting the fenders up (hopefully for the last time in a while)

Also filled the car back up with some sugar free Minute Maid and got the car fired up last night to confirm no leaks and the shifter works. Was a big win since the cars been down for about a month now.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

No expenses spared with that Minute Maid there.

 

[Boostie]

Idk, maybe?

 

[01bluesnake]

Idk, maybe?

View attachment 196993

Old school champions? They look good

 

[No longer active]

Yeah I was gonna say Champions too.

 

[Boostie]

01bluesnake yessir. I took them home to test fit. They aren’t 100% the correct backspace but I can make it work. Just not sure I like em more than the welds. Considering swapping the front to alumastars so not sure what would look best.

 

[01bluesnake]

01bluesnake yessir. I took them home to test fit. They aren’t 100% the correct backspace but I can make it work. Just not sure I like em more than the welds. Considering swapping the front to alumastars so not sure what would look best.

The Welds are nice too, but im bias since i got a few sets of them. I was gonna ask if you had the fronts, otherwise gonna be tough to make the rear look right with anything else. The Alumastar should look pretty good with the Champion. I dont have my 17" Alumastars anymore, otherwise id let you fit them.

 

[strtcar]

hear me out....these with green bead lock ring

 

[Terminator-Fux]

Those have gotta be 3k+ per wheel with the crackhead pricing of CCW's now.

 

[Boostie]

Been working around the house the last few weeks and the cars been sitting. Finally took a break to try to booger weld some of the cold side together. Turned out ok I guess

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Snaking it in, nice!

 

[LikeABauce302]

Looking good Boostie!

 

[Boostie]

Looking good Boostie!

It aint anything show worthy, but should hold. With practice I hope to improve the aesthetics.

 

[01bluesnake]

It aint anything show worthy, but should hold. With practice I hope to improve the aesthetics.

It took a while to feel settings, then bouncing back and forth materials like aluminum, steel, stainless just multiplies the headache. What cup size, type, tungsten size and type you using? I have really good luck on aluminum piping with a gas lens #5, with a 3/32" 2% lanthanated tungsten. CFH i set to 15 psi, and normally 85-90 amps for the thinner stuff, or 100 for the thick. Another tip is cleaning the filler rod with some 3M scuff pad prior to using it, helps knock off the oxidation, followed by wiping it down with acetone. I found this method really helps the filler melt easy into the puddle for tacking. I always do at least 4 tacks, about 90* apart, but have done 5-6 on 4"+ piping. You want fit up to be as tight as possible, but i have welded and went over 1/16-1/8 gaps without issue, just gotta watch the amperage and puddle. You have some solid welds in certain areas, so could just be more time at the welder.

 

[Boostie]

It took a while to feel settings, then bouncing back and forth materials like aluminum, steel, stainless just multiplies the headache. What cup size, type, tungsten size and type you using? I have really good luck on aluminum piping with a gas lens #5, with a 3/32" 2% lanthanated tungsten. CFH i set to 15 psi, and normally 85-90 amps for the thinner stuff, or 100 for the thick. Another tip is cleaning the filler rod with some 3M scuff pad prior to using it, helps knock off the oxidation, followed by wiping it down with acetone. I found this method really helps the filler melt easy into the puddle for tacking. I always do at least 4 tacks, about 90* apart, but have done 5-6 on 4"+ piping. You want fit up to be as tight as possible, but i have welded and went over 1/16-1/8 gaps without issue, just gotta watch the amperage and puddle. You have some solid welds in certain areas, so could just be more time at the welder.

For this I was using a #6, 3/32 Tungsten, CFH around 15psi and I think that I settled on ~75 amps full tilt on the pedal. I have been cleaning the filler rod and parts with non-chlorinated brake kleen after using a wire brush. I recently bought a belt sander to get the fitment tight, but I will say I still semi struggle with the initial tack welds and find myself lowering the amperage to 55-65amps for the tack. When I have it set higher I seem to melt open the gaps. I will have to try to drop down to a #5 cup and see if that helps out. for doing thicker stuff I can do pretty well, but the thin wall is much trickier and I need a lot more practice.

Some practice pieces in no particular order, im sure the quality of the metal has some to do with it as I have cheap universal piping that I am using. Def open to any input since I’m learning based on google and YouTube

 

[LikeABauce302]

For this I was using a #6, 3/32 Tungsten, CFH around 15psi and I think that I settled on ~75 amps full tilt on the pedal. I have been cleaning the filler rod and parts with non-chlorinated brake kleen after using a wire brush. I recently bought a belt sander to get the fitment tight, but I will say I still semi struggle with the initial tack welds and find myself lowering the amperage to 55-65amps for the tack. When I have it set higher I seem to melt open the gaps. I will have to try to drop down to a #5 cup and see if that helps out. for doing thicker stuff I can do pretty well, but the thin wall is much trickier and I need a lot more practice.

Some practice pieces in no particular order, im sure the quality of the metal has some to do with it as I have cheap universal piping that I am using. Def open to any input since I’m learning based on google and YouTube

View attachment 200094View attachment 200093View attachment 200095

Keep the torch moving when you tack weld and don't be afraid to give it more amps. I move the torch in a small tight circle when laying tacks. It seems to reduce burn through and helps the puddle to hit both parts.

 

[Broke EF]

 

[01bluesnake]

For this I was using a #6, 3/32 Tungsten, CFH around 15psi and I think that I settled on ~75 amps full tilt on the pedal. I have been cleaning the filler rod and parts with non-chlorinated brake kleen after using a wire brush. I recently bought a belt sander to get the fitment tight, but I will say I still semi struggle with the initial tack welds and find myself lowering the amperage to 55-65amps for the tack. When I have it set higher I seem to melt open the gaps. I will have to try to drop down to a #5 cup and see if that helps out. for doing thicker stuff I can do pretty well, but the thin wall is much trickier and I need a lot more practice.

Some practice pieces in no particular order, im sure the quality of the metal has some to do with it as I have cheap universal piping that I am using. Def open to any input since I’m learning based on google and YouTube

Going to cup #5 will help keep the cleaning more narrow, and help with a better arc in my experience. You may want to go up a bit on amperage and use your foot to control. Helps with getting heat into the part quick, and not sitting too long to get there. Like mentioned, moving around, using the cleaning action, while getting heat into the part lets them tack easier. I use a specific Tungsten grinder, helps keep consistent angles, which also affect arc width. I do blunt the tip ever so slightly after grinding it helps stabilize the arc, where when left with a point, tends to wander more on A/C. A/C frequency can also make a huge difference, but depending on material thickness, amperage, and what exactly your welding will change. Mine tends to sit around 80, but move down to 60 if i want a wider arc, or more spread per say, and i use 100 if i want a tight arc, with more amp concentration. A/C balance is usually around 30% on my machine, but some are flipped, so 70% is what you would shoot for. Too much and it balls the tip up instantly, too little and not enough cleaning.