🔧 BUILD A piece of Americana at the Bedno house
- Thread starter Dasfinc
- Start date
Sadly yea; it’s for the wipers only however is my understanding, which are inoperable anyways currently… may figure something else out there later…
https://theamcforum.com/forum/232-parts_topic116213.html
Relevant post btw. Gives a part number for a pump to look for, sans vacuum.
Relevant post btw. Gives a part number for a pump to look for, sans vacuum.
Fuel Pump, Vacuum Wipers, V8, 1967-71 AMC - Rebuild and return service | American Performance Products, Co.
P/N: V-1094 Our mechanical fuel pumps are precision remanufactured with heavy-duty diaphragms, high-speed "anti-float" springs, large "full flow" valves, heat-treated lever, corrosion-resistant components Replace your leaking, cracked or non-functioning fuel pump Restore proper fuel system...
Amcrambler.com
For vac wiper motor overhaul... since it's so hard to find the electric systems. And I don't know if anyone's done an aftermarket system using a GM wiper motor
Okay so while I was bored I did some searching with certain terms and I've came across a bunch of stuff but the primary thing is that most people agree that unless you have a Golden Horseshoe shoved up your ass and you managed to find a complete electric wiper setup.....
....your kind of better off using an aftermarket high-quality electric vacuum pump and just overhauling the vacuum wiper actuator as most recommendations are.
....your kind of better off using an aftermarket high-quality electric vacuum pump and just overhauling the vacuum wiper actuator as most recommendations are.
This is a knock off of an AC Delco.
They go upwards from there
www.jegs.com
They go upwards from there
JEGS 63016: Electric Vacuum Pump Kit [18 in. to 22 in. Hg] - JEGS
Get the Best Performance with JEGS Electric Vacuum Pump Kit [18 in. to 22 in. Hg] 63016 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!
Electric pump was the ticket;
Boroscoped the tank and it looked surprisingly clean so I threw a gallon of gas in it, and put the filter and pump up front with some mock-up wiring and lines and the car easily fires up and idles on the electric pump.
Moving to figuring out where to mount the pump.
Boroscoped the tank and it looked surprisingly clean so I threw a gallon of gas in it, and put the filter and pump up front with some mock-up wiring and lines and the car easily fires up and idles on the electric pump.
Moving to figuring out where to mount the pump.
Remember those electric piston type pumps aren't as good at suction as they are with pressure so try to mount it down low and preferably away from the exhaust you would probably be fine to put it on the frame rail near where the mechanical pump was that's typically where we ended up doing those conversions and mounting them
Yea, it’s mounted a little ghetto right now just to make sure it would work; I can mount it down low in a cool area, but it’s VERY far forward, so I’m a little leery from “if it throws a belt or there’s an accident” perspective, so I’m still figuring that out. Also if I cut the front hard line back a bit it’s going to be in the way of the oil filter which is already a little tight.
It has a torn motor mount and a miss now that I’ve had a bit of time to idle it, I’ll toss a compression gauge on it maybe tomorrow or later next week to make sure all is well and then I’ll replace the ignition.
That being said, it drove out of the garage and then back into it under its own power today.
Boat-engine noises confirmed, it had 2 fowled plugs from me re-installing them into a grease caked engine, gap also all over the place, so replaced/gapped all plugs, runs much happier now, but still needs to get dialed in (No idea how the timing or carb are setup at the moment); wires/cap/rotor all look to be in good shape and clearly not original.
it looks like a pretty standard distributor/rotor setup; has a vacuum advance on it, but haven't torn anything apart other than pulling the cap off and looking underneath.
It looks honestly like new inside the cap as well as the rotor, Wires are modern, so I suspect its had at least an ignition tuneup some time in its life before it's big sleep.
I have a new coil to pickup tomorrow as that is positively caked in grease, and I have new Wires/Coil/Cap sitting to go on it, but didn't bother this evening since everything looked to be in such good shape.
Also, you should really get an Airtex OS75 safety switch for that pump. You hook it into your oil pressure that way if the engine drops oil pressure it cuts fuel. That makes it so you don't have it keep pumping if a line breaks. It's a common OEM feature, you may have one or two leftover from parts cars. Reference image hijacked from another site, credit to them for it.
I have wired a manual switch interrupt into the cabin so I can at least do that manually
Update:
Turbocharged400sbc found the Oil warning light was real. Tang that drives the oil pump at the base of the Dizzy was broken off.
Engine has been pulled for break-down/inspection (again, thanks to James).
Turbocharged400sbc found the Oil warning light was real. Tang that drives the oil pump at the base of the Dizzy was broken off.Engine has been pulled for break-down/inspection (again, thanks to James).
James doesn't think it's hurt, but basically I was initially hard-line of "If the engine has to come out I'd rather put something more modern in". The oil pump isn't servicible engine in due to it being unibody, so it had to come out.
If a bearing/seal kit with a new oil pump and dizzy can bring it back from the dead for a couple hundred bucks, then I'm willing to have him do it. If the block or cam is hurt, I'll likely increase my pursuit of a jeep 4.0.
#1 rod bearing at .004-5
Probably bearing slap at the minimum.
Holy sludge...lotsa paraffin wax sediment
Probably bearing slap at the minimum.
Holy sludge...lotsa paraffin wax sediment
Thread Info
-
Created -
82Replies
-
2KViews
-
Participants list
