1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R (R32)

1989 Nissan Skyline GT-R (R32)
Chassis/VIN: BNR32-000953
Miles: 81k miles (131k km)

Photos here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q1DFKdYA2O0ftFlM2

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It is with a heavy heart that I post my GTR for sale. I have a new baby and am moving soon/purchasing a house. All this at once unfortunately means game over for a project car for awhile.

Imported through International Vehicle Importers in CA. Original paint was Gunmetal (KH2) but at some point early in its life in Japan it was repainted black. It got a fresh new paint job here in CA when it was imported (late 2015). I purchased it in early 2016. It was completely stock upon importing. Even still had the stock boost restrictor in place. Only modifications were some Nismo parts from factory (coilovers and downpipe).

Overall, car is in excellent condition for its age and, in my opinion, is one of the cleanest examples you’ll find. Garage kept entire time I've owned it. Besides minor clear coat scratches here and there, the only body damage is on the right (driver’s) rear quarter panel. There is a dent and crack from some jackass that backed into me in a hit and run. Difficult to see from a distance, but up close its clear. That panel itself also has lost a little luster (compared to the rest of the car which is 9/10). Interior is about as good as I’ve seen. There is no dash bubble, dash is pristine. The only obvious wear is a tear in the driver’s upper right seat bolster. Additionaly, I installed a touch screen with Bluetooth, etc. I removed the ash tray and cigarette lighter and relocated HVAC controls there.

My whole goal with the car was to build an "OEM+" dual purpose track/street car. I wanted it to be comfortable for the street, a beast on the track, and look clean and relatively stock. The complete mod list is below, which you can take a look at. We started with basically replacing every worn item, fluids, filters, suspension components, exhaust components, fuel system components, all four front axle CV boots, etc. All work was done by either myself and friends in South Florida, Touge Factory (TF-Works) in Chicago, or Transcraft (for transmission rebuild) in Chicago. It recently spent some time at Touge Factory having fuel system issues sorted (turned out to just be a bad injector) so Mike and the guys there can vouch for the car. While there, had compression / leak down testing, fuel rail and injector testing, sniff test / AFR, MAFs/coil packs/coil pack harness all tested, and had new injectors/oil/O2 sensors/spark plugs etc etc done. Car is tip top shape.

I feel worth noting, as someone who has reasonable amount of experience and knowledge of the Skyline world, that IMO purchasing a build like this makes much more sense than importing through one of the (now) many companies. This is for a few reasons. First, if you want a totally stock car so that you can either keep it that way or do all the mods yourself, I would tell you that you are likely getting a car without a lot of the service work done on it and a little bit more of a roll of the dice with things like fuel lines, seals, bushings, etc. Second, if you want one with some tasteful mods already that you think you'd be doing anyway (intake, exhaust, coilovers being most common), you truly don't know the shape/condition of those parts or how long they've been on the car if it comes from Japan with them. This car has had all of these OEM and aftermarket components replaced within the last 18 months (and some in the last month), so reliability and quality shouldn't be a concern. It has already had all of the maintenance done, and all of the performance/reliability tests done on it. It has a Blackstone Labs report showing good health. So just things to keep in mind. Obviously I'm a little biased, but even if you buy from someone else, just keep those things in mind. From one car dude to another.

There is going to be quite a bit of flexibility in the pricing, depending on how you want the car and if you want any of the new/spare parts for further performance build. I can go over pricing of turbos, head parts, pipes, lines, oil cooler, etc etc if serious interest (edit: has now been discussed later in the thread).

PRICE:
- With the stock (16x8) wheels and Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires (~2000 miles on them): $25k
- With the Enkei NT03RR (18x9.5 +15) wheels and Continental ExtremeContact Sports (265/35/18): $27k
(Note: these wheels and tires are essentially brand new, ~500 miles on them). Wheels were imported direct from Enkei factory through a contact in Japan. They are likely the only set (or one of the only sets) in America, especially on this car.

Photos here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q1DFKdYA2O0ftFlM2

Feel free to chat with me on here or by phone/text 267-253-4707. Also, would appreciate you sharing this if you know anyone that may be interested. Cheers!

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MODIFICATIONS:

Suspension/wheels/tires/brakes:
- Whiteline suspension bushings all around
- Whiteline sway bars front and rear
- Nismo front strut brace
- BC Racing coilovers (BR series: type RS; 8/6 kg/mm)
- Whiteline HICAS delete (plus complete HICAS piping removal)
- Goodrich braided SS brake lines
- Motul 600 brake fluid
- G-Loc brake pads GS-1 (street setup)
- G-Loc brake pads R16/R8 (race setup; currently not installed)
- Z32 brake master cylinder (BM-57, 1-1/16”)
- Enkei NT03RR 18x9.5 ET15 wheels in Matte Dark Gunmetal
- Continental ExtremeContact Sport 265/35/18

Engine/drivetrain:
- Cosworth intake filter
- HKS Silent Hi-Power exhaust
- Mines front pipe (downpipe) ceramic coated black
- Decat pipe
- Rebuilt transmission with new synchros, center plate
- Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate clutch
- Nismo lightened flywheel
- Nismo fuel pump (276 L/h)
- New OEM injectors (4/6 recently replaced)
- Recently serviced OEM coilpacks
- New O2 sensors
- New NGK plugs
- All vital fluids/filters obviously replaced (at least once) and recent Blackstone Labs report with good results and thumbs up from them compared to most RB26s they’ve seen.

Interior/electronics/aesthetics:
- Pioneer SPH-DA120 AppRadio touch screen display with Apple CarPlay
- Pioneer speakers all around
- New black paint job in late 2015
- New window tint
- Midori Seibi delrin shift knob
- Broadway rearview mirror
- RedLine Goods leather shift and ebrake boots
- RedLine Goods leather arm rest
- RedLine Goods leather upholstery on doors and rear side panels
- Nismo floor mats
- Trunk mounted fire extinguisher

Misc:
- New OEM rear spoiler rubber seals
- New OEM trunk bumpers
- New OEM radiator support brackets and bushings

Currently at my house (all brand new), available for sale:
- Garrett GT2859 (707160-5009) "-9" turbos (new 2016 model has upgraded ceramic ball bearings) Note: this is the same turbo that HKS used and rebranded as the GT-SS turbo, one of the most desired. It's between the -5 and -7 in size. -5 for big power, -7 for quick spool, -9 just right in the middle and ideal for track use (because not so slow and not so bouncy).
- HKS actuators (better than the Garrett)
- HKS oil restrictor kit
- Braided turbo water and oil lines
- OEM Nissan turbo gasket kit
- HPI dump pipes
- ARP head studs
- Tomei 1.2 mm head gasket and compete Tomei gasket set
- Mocal/Setrab oil cooler set up and oil filter relocation kit
- Whiteline KCA336 front camber adjustment set (brand new, never mounted, but package opened)

Used parts also for sale:
- Nismo downpipe
- Nismo coilovers
 
Last edited:
How much for turbo bits?

Garrett GT2859 (707160-5009) turbos - paid $1890
HKS 0.8 mm oil restrictor kit - paid $60
HKS actuators (better than the Garrett) - paid $245
Braided turbo oil and water lines - paid $255
OEM Nissan turbo gasket kit - paid $175
HPI dump pipes - paid $425
plus ~$225 shipping

That's $3275 invested, if those are the parts you're talking about. I'd let that all go for $2900. Not looking to lose a lot of money because they're untouched sitting in boxes at my house. Kit was assembled with help of Supertec Racing out of the UK. Lines made specifically for this application, etc.

Regarding any and all parts, happy to work with you guys. More you buy, the better the deal. :)
 
What power is it supposed to make?

These turbos are rated up to 310 or 350 hp a piece, depending on where you read. I obviously probably wouldn't push them to the absolute max, but plenty of people run them with 500-550 whp setups.

As far as how much output you would make if you did this whole conversion (and assuming you had supporting parts like downpipe, full exhaust, intake, injectors, etc) with a good tune you should probably see 400-450 whp easy. Depending on your tune and how much boost you want to run. Do you have stock oil pump?
 

IceCreamAssassin

When in doubt, throttle out
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These turbos are rated up to 310 or 350 hp a piece, depending on where you read. I obviously probably wouldn't push them to the absolute max, but plenty of people run them with 500-550 whp setups.



As far as how much output you would make if you did this whole conversion (and assuming you had supporting parts like downpipe, full exhaust, intake, injectors, etc) with a good tune you should probably see 400-450 whp easy. Depending on your tune and how much boost you want to run. Do you have stock oil pump?



I’m 100% stock except for cat back
 
I’m 100% stock except for cat back

I would say if you did these turbos (with all accessories I've sourced), the dump pipes, and got a tune, you'd be in the 360-380 whp range. That's kinda shootin' from the hip, bc there's a lot of variability in the power of a stock motor 28 years later. But I would say that's reasonable. Getting rid of your stock turbos gets rid of the potential failure point of the ceramic turbine wheels, which can disintegrate over about 14 psi. Then the only real limitation is the stock oil pump which can crack if you're revving over 7300 rpm. Other than those two things, for street use the thing should be set from an internal standpoint til like 475-600 whp (not going to go through limits of each part, can google it). If tracking car, that's a different store. A few more things to consider from an oil control standpoint.

Would also recommend doing head studs, upgraded head gasket, head oil restrictor, etc if you're going to up the power. Esp if these are original or really old parts still.

Edit: I could be off, and you may see over 400 whp with that setup alone, I just don't want to tell you that and end up sounding like I was blowing smoke. You would def be over 400 whp if you did all other supporting mods.
 
I got a friend who might be interested.

How much for the car?
How many miles?
How does it run?
Is it the Original motor and Trans?
Does it need anything

Hey, thanks for the interest.
All those details are in the OP. But:
- $27k with stock wheels, $29k with new Enkei/Conti setup.
- About 81k miles (131k km).
- Runs perfectly. Even better than the day I got it. Touge Factory recently had it for a while sorting out the fuel system. Turns out it was just an injector stuck open, but in the process, we serviced and/or replaced most components. Starts up on second crank each time.
- Original motor and trans. Trans recently rebuilt with new synchros, bearings, shift fork, Nismo clutch and flywheel, center plate..the whole shebang.
- Doesn't need anything. All the other parts I have listed that haven't been installed (turbos, head work, etc) isn't required, but was all in my plan.

Thx again for interest.
 
Thank you! Sorry but I still don’t see the above in the OP. I’m on the Tapatalk app. Maybe something is goofy with the app.

But I will let him know. Thank you!



No prob. Are you going back to first page? If he wants more pictures or info tell him to visit this thread on a desktop then. Should cover most of the stuff. But happy to answer any more that he has. Thanks a lot!
 
[MENTION=3307]IceCreamAssassin[/MENTION]
I did a little more reading just to make sure I gave you accurate figures. There is a lot of good info on SAU.com.au and GTR.co.uk, but a stock setup with these -9 turbos, exhaust, and a tune should put you probably in the 415-425 whp range. Obviously there's a lot of wiggle room based on health of motor, amount of boost ran with tune, etc. And plenty of room to climb with simple bolt ons, cam gears, injectors, etc.

Check out this thread to read 21 pages of different combos of ways to make 300-330 awkw (400-440 awhp):

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236467-definitive-guide-to-building-300-330awkw-gt-r/

Cheers.
 

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