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6.0L research build thread

firemandan1700

Bite my shiny metal ass
Apr 6, 2008
8,635
10
LaSalle County
So I figured that time is now to venture in to building a 6.0L for my Trans Am.
I want to get all my ducks in a row and compile a parts list, and other info before buying everything. This will be more informational until assembily begins. :jg:

I would like to do this without spending a shit load of money, but I will foot the extra cash to achive the durability and strength as needed.

So my total goal is around the mid high 400 rwhp without any adders. If i can achieve low 500 rwhp n/a that would be amazing. But I might plan on using N2O possibly at a later time, still a toss up.

I would like an LQ9 block. But is there any difference in the internals between an lq4 vs lq9 namly pistons or are both motors the same to keep a high compression? Was it just the different heads on the lq motors that made them a 20hp difference between them?

I was reading that a lot of the ls1 accessory drives (PS, alt, a/c ect) will transfer over as well as the oil pan. Should I upgrade the oilpan to a deeper oil pan or will than not be benficial. Anything else I should upgrade or change?

If I get a low milage block with internals other than upgrading the timing chain for valvetrain purposes, should I put a forged piston in with steel top rings to prevent them from melting if/when i spray?

What kind of heads should I run? I seen a lot of people complement on the gains of L92 heads. Should there be any other heads I should look into?

With the intake, should I just buy a FAST 102/102 and call it a day? Or should I use the L76 intake for ease of MAP sensor use?

I read there might be a problem with the conversion of the oil pressure sending unit. The lq9 is a 3 wire and the ls1 is a one wire? Is that true if so what way can i get around this?

How about sensor swapping? Do you think there will be any issues? Will most/all sensors swap?

Cam suggestions? I see that some of the people use a MS3 cam or a New era street sweeper ht cam. Should I go with one of those or should I have someone develop a custom grind?

Im open to any recommendations on the valvetrain because I havnt researched that far yet. (springs/pushrods/rockers/springs ect)

I know I probably forgot a lot of stuff so fill me in. Any recommendations on good parts I should use let me know. If you find any good deals that i should buy right now let me know.

I am open to any and all recommendations and suggestions.

I will start buying parts come tax return time :noes: lol
 

Eagle

Nemo me impune lacessit
Moderator
TCG Premium
Mar 1, 2008
63,909
4,742
Woodsticks, IL
So I figured that time is now to venture in to building a 6.0L for my Trans Am.
I want to get all my ducks in a row and compile a parts list, and other info before buying everything. This will be more informational until assembily begins. :jg:

I would like to do this without spending a shit load of money, but I will foot the extra cash to achive the durability and strength as needed.

So my total goal is around the mid high 400 rwhp without any adders. If i can achieve low 500 rwhp n/a that would be amazing. But I might plan on using N2O possibly at a later time, still a toss up.

I would like an LQ9 block. But is there any difference in the internals between an lq4 vs lq9 namly pistons or are both motors the same to keep a high compression? Was it just the different heads on the lq motors that made them a 20hp difference between them?

Only diff is compression ratio as far as I know. Most run LQ4 to save $.

I was reading that a lot of the ls1 accessory drives (PS, alt, a/c ect) will transfer over as well as the oil pan. Should I upgrade the oilpan to a deeper oil pan or will than not be benficial. Anything else I should upgrade or change?

You'll have to drill for the PS bracket. Otherwise, most everything bolts up fine. I think there's one other weird part... don't recall....


If I get a low milage block with internals other than upgrading the timing chain for valvetrain purposes, should I put a forged piston in with steel top rings to prevent them from melting if/when i spray?

Forged for sure. Rods and pistons IMO.

What kind of heads should I run? I seen a lot of people complement on the gains of L92 heads. Should there be any other heads I should look into?

BIG HEADS. Nothing stock will support the #s you're looking for.

With the intake, should I just buy a FAST 102/102 and call it a day? Or should I use the L76 intake for ease of MAP sensor use?

102/102 is fine.

I read there might be a problem with the conversion of the oil pressure sending unit. The lq9 is a 3 wire and the ls1 is a one wire? Is that true if so what way can i get around this?

How about sensor swapping? Do you think there will be any issues? Will most/all sensors swap?

Cam suggestions? I see that some of the people use a MS3 cam or a New era street sweeper ht cam. Should I go with one of those or should I have someone develop a custom grind?

Custom grind, 100%

Im open to any recommendations on the valvetrain because I havnt researched that far yet. (springs/pushrods/rockers/springs ect)

I know I probably forgot a lot of stuff so fill me in. Any recommendations on good parts I should use let me know. If you find any good deals that i should buy right now let me know.

I am open to any and all recommendations and suggestions.

I will start buying parts come tax return time :noes: lol

Thats all for now. In a time crunch. Maybe I'll have more 411 later. :)
 

Fast Motorsports

Northside Badboy
Oct 16, 2008
506
0
First off... whats wrong with the block thats in the car? are you building a second motor to replace the current one?


Second, you dont need iron to hit your goal NA

I shall continue to comment as responses come in.

mid to upper 400's with heads and cam is not hard.

Why this power goal? do you have any other purpose for the car? track time? How is the car setup now?
 

b00ya

AHHHH!!
Jun 10, 2008
1,342
0
Aurora
stock lq4 compression is 9.5:1 with the dished pistons, LQ9 is 10.1:1 with flat tops. Just throwing a set of 243 LS6 heads bumps the LQ9 to 11.2:1 or so and the LQ4 goes up to around 10.6:1. Im building a LQ9 for my car and from everyone ive talked too I will have no problem hitting my 500rwhp goal with some ported heads and a good cam.
 

firemandan1700

Bite my shiny metal ass
Apr 6, 2008
8,635
10
LaSalle County
First off... whats wrong with the block thats in the car? are you building a second motor to replace the current one?


Second, you dont need iron to hit your goal NA

I shall continue to comment as responses come in.

mid to upper 400's with heads and cam is not hard.

Why this power goal? do you have any other purpose for the car? track time? How is the car setup now?

ported stock castings? what kind of cam are we talking here?

I want to build a 2nd motor so I can still drive my car while building said motor.

The power goal was just a good number to shoot for, if i surpass them I wont be disappointed :) I just want to hit a high hp number without using spray. Thats my main goal.

I want the car to be a good street/track car with the right set up of course.

The car is currently all boltons with lcas. I know I have a ways to go in suspension.

And I am open to all cam ideas, custom or off the shelf.
 

GIMPY

TCG Elite Member
Feb 21, 2009
1,103
2
Elgin
If ur going to a 6.0 and u can still drive the car while building the motor y dont u go turbo? Just a thought . Plus ur adding 90lbs to the car were the weight doesnt need to be. Heads and cam with ur current motor would be cheapier also. Well depending on heads u want to run could be cheap but could also get expensive.
 

Fast Motorsports

Northside Badboy
Oct 16, 2008
506
0
My second post was directed towards b00ya more so....


High HP N/A and a budget dont really mix very well. There is a huge difference between logical decisions and just cheeping out.

Spending quality money on a good set of heads is where your main crutch of the build is going to come from.

If your looking for a street/strip car then I would honestly forget about absolutely peak HP numbers and begin to worry about torque. If your not willing to strip the car to bare bones and make it more a track only type deal then getting hung up on that last 1hp peak will not make you happy day to day.

The cam is honestly one of the last things you should worry about since its the brain of the motor. Build it to fit the rest of the puzzle pieces.
 

Eagle

Nemo me impune lacessit
Moderator
TCG Premium
Mar 1, 2008
63,909
4,742
Woodsticks, IL
Heads are key for sure on big HP NA engines.

For budget, I'd really suggest just building a stout short block, toss on some decent heads (243s or maybe some cheaper Livernois CNC'd 243 castings for example), and spray the shit outta it later.

No reason you can't do that on an aluminum block tho and save yourself some weight.
 

Mook

Mr. Manager
Staff member
Admin
May 23, 2007
207,195
119,040
Elgin
Real Name
Mike
ditch the whole plan and buy another 3800!

tomlaughgif2.gif



but seriously, listen to these guys. they all know their shit.
 

GIMPY

TCG Elite Member
Feb 21, 2009
1,103
2
Elgin
Heads are key for sure on big HP NA engines.

For budget, I'd really suggest just building a stout short block, toss on some decent heads (243s or maybe some cheaper Livernois CNC'd 243 castings for example), and spray the shit outta it later.

No reason you can't do that on an aluminum block tho and save yourself some weight.

:fy: or a turbo. Whatever fits ur budget
 
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