Idle Issue

[Sharkster]

FIXED
runs like a dream
I was doing the adaptive learning all wrong. Doug at Performance Plus in Madison walked me through the correct way and she is good to go.

Car was running great and then all of sudden Im dying at stops. Start up is normal. I let the car warm up, XD16 goes through its testing ritual no problems that I can see. I take off and at every stop she dies. Ive noticed a drop in my boost gauge at idle from about -17 -18 down to about -14 or -15 and my XD16 (A/F) was at 14.1 -14.5 at idle is now bouncing around wildly from 14.6 to as high as 15.9 at idle.
The car is heavily modded (most of you know that)
The only things Ive done to it since Ive had it is new billetflow pullies (all), snub idler, another POS Optima Red Top, 2.6 alt pulley, centreforce DFX, 26 spline liberty input, fidanza flywheel, TOB and steel sleeve.
I figured the IAC and got a new one and a PCV. Nada... same thing. I tested the TPS and its good at .982v. Ive looked at most (not all) of my vacuum lines and am not seeing any vacuum leaks with whats accessible. I did notice one 3/8 to 1/2 inch rubber vacuum line coming off the largest port on the back of the whipple that it pretty dried out. I think he used cheap rubber hosing and the long tubes heated the crap out of it. I cant see where it goes but I can snap a few photos of it.
Ive got no DTC codes using the xcal. Ive datalogged some items on my laptop but Im really not seeing anything.
I went out this morning and tested the tps again to make sure and I get the same thing. I did notice that with the engine off and ign to on my XD16 is flashing o2 and to 20.8, o2 and back to 20.8. Not sure if its telling me something or if this is normal for the car being off ign on.
I did change the plugs out from TR6's to BR7EFS. Thats kind of when it started so I threw in some brand TR6's thinking maybe it liked the TR6's and with me running big cams its rich etc.... Regapped from .32 to .30, Plugs looked OK somewhat covered with carbon, expected with these cams.
What about an altitude change from San Francisco to here? Woould it cause any problems with sea level being different between here and there?

Im lost here. Im sure theres some things Ive not tried.

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[FuelSlut]

Car was running great and then all of sudden Im dying at stops. Start up is normal. I let the car warm up, XD16 goes through its testing ritual no problems that I can see. I take off and at every stop she dies. Ive noticed a drop in my boost gauge at idle from about -17 -18 down to about -14 or -15 and my XD16 (A/F) was at 14.1 -14.5 at idle is now bouncing around wildly from 14.6 to as high as 15.9 at idle.
The car is heavily modded (most of you know that)
The only things Ive done to it since Ive had it is new billetflow pullies (all), snub idler, another POS Optima Red Top, 2.6 alt pulley, centreforce DFX, 26 spline liberty input, fidanza flywheel, TOB and steel sleeve.
I figured the IAC and got a new one and a PCV. Nada... same thing. I tested the TPS and its good at .982v. Ive looked at most (not all) of my vacuum lines and am not seeing any vacuum leaks with whats accessible. I did notice one 3/8 to 1/2 inch rubber vacuum line coming off the largest port on the back of the whipple that it pretty dried out. I think he used cheap rubber hosing and the long tubes heated the crap out of it. I cant see where it goes but I can snap a few photos of it.
Ive got no DTC codes using the xcal. Ive datalogged some items on my laptop but Im really not seeing anything.
I went out this morning and tested the tps again to make sure and I get the same thing. I did notice that with the engine off and ign to on my XD16 is flashing o2 and to 20.8, o2 and back to 20.8. Not sure if its telling me something or if this is normal for the car being off ign on.
I did change the plugs out from TR6's to BR7EFS. Thats kind of when it started so I threw in some brand TR6's thinking maybe it liked the TR6's and with me running big cams its rich etc.... Regapped from .32 to .30, Plugs looked OK somewhat covered with carbon, expected with these cams.
What about an altitude change from San Francisco to here? Woould it cause any problems with sea level being different between here and there?

Im lost here. Im sure theres some things Ive not tried.

Maybe the altitude, if you got your car tuned in SF thats a different elevation w different ambient temps, you can start by investigating that more before you spend more money on a new tune.

I use to have a 02 mustang gt, and when It was bone stock, the car would constantly die when I was coming to a coasting stop from 40mph or so, sometimes when I press the clutch in. One day it did it to me in a curve scared the crap out of me, imagine no brake assist or power steering in a suddent moment. Anyway took it to the dealer numerous times they never found anything. I one day decided to put on a 75shot of spray on it, I sent out the processor to steeda to get reflashed for the timing and 75 shot. The car never died out again. So it was in the computer all along.

 

[Sharkster]

Thats exactly what its doing. Clutch in from a roll approaching a stop... it just dies.
My battery was off the car for a long time, months 3-4 maybe. Fucking Optimas. Got it back on and drove it around for about 30 minutes, even drove it to and from work about 70 miles so it would learn but nope its still the same. Maybe Ill try reloading the tune if its on the XCal2
Car was tuned in SF last year.
Scratch the issue on the XD-16 as its normal for it to read 20.9 to o2 back and forth when the car isnt running. Its evidently reading dead air until the car is started.

 

[vadorsnake04]

im having the same issue with mine, i mean the exact same issues as you are, so i am going back for a retune in a few weeks, i think that will fix it, or atleast i hope. If you figure it out let me know.

 

[Slow99x]

I think I read a few posts a while back when Kurgan was talking about this problem and not every Cobra having it. He mentioned that you need to tell the tuner what is happening and there is an adjustment that needs to be made.

 

[Sharkster]

I took the air filter off and started the car and my A/F went nuts and so did the idle. Up and down and got to the point where the car wouldnt stay running without my foot on the gas. A/F was all over the place, 12.0 all th way to 50 something as it was trying to die.
Ive got two tunes on this Xcal2 one says Amazon 11.6 and the other Amazon 2. Im waiting for a callback from the previous owner to see what tune was the last one to go in the car. I know he had some minor issues with it with thos heavy cams and then Amazon put it on the rollers and did another tune on it and got it almost perfect but I dont know which damn tune to reload. My battery has been out of the car for the last 3 or 4 months. I see some people having this type of issue and having to reload the tune. Ive been told no the battery out of the car doesnt have anything to do with but hell Ill give it a whirl as its a freebie to try.
I had john (hoofinit) put the new clutch and drivetrain components in it last fall so the exhaust had to come off. Maybe Ive got an exhaust leak before one of the O2's and its throwing me all out of whack?
Ive still got no codes being thrown. 0 nada and I find that unusual.

 

[Bob_Kurgan]

im having the same issue with mine, i mean the exact same issues as you are, so i am going back for a retune in a few weeks, i think that will fix it, or atleast i hope. If you figure it out let me know.

yours is doing it because i havent tuned the isc tables yet... since you had the incorrect iac on the car, it was impossible and i had to guess...

 

[Sharkster]

talked with the previous owner.He states that the Amazon 11.6 tune is the revised tune and then they had to tweak the idle but he didnt remember where he tweaked it at. OKAAAAY

 

[Sharkster]

Do I need to readjust the TPS to exactly .99 or 1.0 or is it good where its at.

 

[trueblue01gt]

just get the car retuned locally

 

[FuelSlut]

just get the car retuned locally

Go to Kurgan.

 

[vadorsnake04]

yours is doing it because i havent tuned the isc tables yet... since you had the incorrect iac on the car, it was impossible and i had to guess...

yep, ill see you in a few weeks:headbang:

 

[Sharkster]

I knew it wasnt a tune issue. Ive been pulling my goddamn hair out over this going over everything and it wasnt any of those things. The other night I even dropped the tank and pulled the pumps. Looked absolutely beautiful in there. Whoever did the PPRV del, pump and wiring upgrade knew his shit.
Looks like its related to the blower. I take the serpentine belt off and the car goes back to its nasty normal self.... PERFECT
Here is what it sounds like right now.... like shit coming out of the blower. I was told by a local guy that it still could be a really bad lower intake gasket leaking. Possibly a blower rebuild.
Im yanking the blower and whole shooting match off Sat
Tell me what you hear? I hear something that sounds like a tensioner pulley bouncing up and down but its not. Its coming from the clutch area its not in the engine. Could be those new TOB's getting ready to go. Ive been told that these bearings would probably go out and it as hit or miss whether you get a good set or not. Hell that may not be the TOBs at all.
Have a listen and tell me if you hear anything.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Cammed-Idle-Issue-1_682941.htm

 

[Sharkster]

and that sound your hearing isnt coming through the air filter and maf, its coming from behind and below the blower. Local builder told me thats possibly why your hearing that so loud... because it possibly blew a large chunk of gasket out. We will see Sat.... that would be one hell of a huge vacuum leak

 

[Zack]

and that sound your hearing isnt coming through the air filter and maf, its coming from behind and below the blower. Local builder told me thats possibly why your hearing that so loud... because it possibly blew a large chunk of gasket out. We will see Sat.... that would be one hell of a huge vacuum leak

The blower gasket is made of thin metal, it cant blow out.

...even if you ised rtv in its place its nearly impossible to blow that seal.
The mating surfaces are machined quite well.

Did you ever use a screwdriver to seperate the blower from the lower intake?

 

[Sharkster]

The blower gasket is made of thin metal, it cant blow out.

...even if you ised rtv in its place its nearly impossible to blow that seal.
The mating surfaces are machined quite well.

Did you ever use a screwdriver to seperate the blower from the lower intake?

No I havent and this whole engine was brand new and built up from there. When I bought the car or it had roughly 10k on the eng. I doubt if he did but Ill find out shortly. Is it possible to crack a lower intake?

 

[Flyn]

Another possible cause of the car dying at stops is an air leak between the MAF and blower. If you guys have had your intake off recently, check all the clamps to make sure you don't have unmetered air getting in.

 

[Sharkster]

Another possible cause of the car dying at stops is an air leak between the MAF and blower. If you guys have had your intake off recently, check all the clamps to make sure you don't have unmetered air getting in.

Oh ive checked and checked and checked and checked. I cant check no more.
If I use any more propane or carb cleaner the price of oil will go up a little more just because of me
Ive checked it all. Blower off = problem gone so its in there somewhere. I need to clean down in there anyways. Inj, rail under the blower etc.
I dont particularly embrace the fact of dumping all of my intercooler fluid after my issue of air lock in the heat exchanger last month. Something so simple got so fucked up just because of one air bubble.

 

[Zack]

Have you tried a known good IAC yet?

 

[Sharkster]

yuppers brand new. Take the belt off the blower and she goes right to perfect. Idles/lopes GREAT

 

[nytebyte]

You don't think this is "The Stall" issue which was big news a few years ago. I had it bad on my car and needed to have the computer updated at Ford (SM 17542 - need PCM B29.3 or higher).

I had a custom tune at the time as well, but it didn't matter, the car stalled with or without the custom tune. I had to reflash back to stock, then get the Ford upgrade, then upload my custom tune back in.

It fixed the problem and also changed the way the car started and idled when cold. Seemed to get better gas mileage too.

 

[Sharkster]

You don't think this is "The Stall" issue which was big news a few years ago. I had it bad on my car and needed to have the computer updated at Ford (SM 17542 - need PCM B29.3 or higher).

I had a custom tune at the time as well, but it didn't matter, the car stalled with or without the custom tune. I had to reflash back to stock, then get the Ford upgrade, then upload my custom tune back in.

It fixed the problem and also changed the way the car started and idled when cold. Seemed to get better gas mileage too.

I was moving towards the stall issue as well until I checked the blower.
I dont know if the stall would apply to this car as everything is modified. Heads, valvetrain, pistons, cams, blower everything ??????
Blower turned off and its back to normal. I know the noise you hear got a lot LOUDER when I swapped the snout out on the blower per Whipple.

 

[Bob_Kurgan]

yuppers brand new. Take the belt off the blower and she goes right to perfect. Idles/lopes GREAT

sounds like a bypass valve issue

 

[Sharkster]

Eric Brooks just sent me a msg telling me the same thing happened on his 03 sound, stalling etc.... turned out to be the vacuum line that comes off of the PCV T behind the blower going under it into the valley. It was melted completely open and caused his Whipple to roar like this.
Bob do you mean the actuator on the back of the blower or the little flapper thing in the blower? These were some ideas too.
I have been getting so frustrated. I search for a while, get pissed off and walk away before I start throwing shit across my garage. Come back and hit it again with a cool head.

 

[Sharkster]

anyone know how to get those bolt or bolts out under the plenum. There isnt enough room to get anything between the blower and rails to undo the pass side rear bolt.