Rear End Vent?

[Emil]

Anyone know where it is?

I've developed a leak at the pinion and want to make sure the vent isn't plugged before I replace the seal.

Thanks

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[ShelbyGuy]

Its that piece of hose coming off the rear cover at about the one o'clock position. The factory hose just loops back down and looks kinda like an upside-down J or almost a question mark.

 

[Emil]

Its that piece of hose coming off the rear cover at about the one o'clock position. The factory hose just loops back down and looks kinda like an upside-down J or almost a question mark.

Thanks!

Has anyone changed the pinion seal?

The manual states to measure the preload before taking it apart which requires removing the brake calipers for an accurate measurement.
Since I'll just be replacing the seal and reinstalling all the existing parts and the crush sleeve is set would measuring the remove torque on the nut and then tightening the new one with the same torque be adequate? The preload range is wide (8-14in/lb old bearings, 75%), I'm thinking I would be back in that range.

The reason being if I can leave the wheels on I can drive it up on ramps vs. using jack stands.

Thanks

 

[Emil]

Checked the vent, it's clear and also the hole into the case. It would sure be hard for it to get plugged the way it's designed but I figured check the easy stuff first.

 

[cap42]

Thanks!

Has anyone changed the pinion seal?

The manual states to measure the preload before taking it apart which requires removing the brake calipers for an accurate measurement.
Since I'll just be replacing the seal and reinstalling all the existing parts and the crush sleeve is set would measuring the remove torque on the nut and then tightening the new one with the same torque be adequate? The preload range is wide (8-14in/lb old bearings, 75%), I'm thinking I would be back in that range.

The reason being if I can leave the wheels on I can drive it up on ramps vs. using jack stands.

Thanks

No you will need a accurate pre-load measurement, this means no calipers no wheels etc etc. the 8-14 in/lb is not a wide range the difference in between that is not something you can just guess at. You cannot get a accurate torque measurement removing something as putting it back on. Trust me this is not something you want to skimp on. This will affect how long the rearend will last, how much noise it will make and rearend parts are not cheap.

 

[Emil]

No you will need a accurate pre-load measurement, this means no calipers no wheels etc etc. the 8-14 in/lb is not a wide range the difference in between that is not something you can just guess at. You cannot get a accurate torque measurement removing something as putting it back on. Trust me this is not something you want to skimp on. This will affect how long the rearend will last, how much noise it will make and rearend parts are not cheap.

Thanks for the info.
Guess it doesn't make any sense to take it apart and not do it right. I'll suck it up when the weather gets a bit better.

 

[Emil]

I'm targeting next weekend to change the seal, does anyone know the size of the puller needed to get the yoke off?
From the flat shape of it, it looks like a steering wheel puller should be able to bolt up to it and pull it off, has anyone tried one?
I'd like to have all the tools ready before I get into it.

Thanks

 

[cap42]

emil, what yoke are you refering to? When I changed my seals on my rearend the first time I was able to remove all seals with a flathead screwdriver, not the easiest way but it did the job. The 2nd time around my brother had seal pullers, it made it easier but for how often I would use it didn't make sense for me to buy a set.

Make sure clean the housing really well and make sure no part of the old seal is stuck. Use a block of wood to tap the new seal in, make sure it goes in evenly otherwise it will get damaged and not seal correctly.

 

[Emil]

To get to the pinion gear seal you need to drop the driveshaft then remove the yoke that splines over the pinion gear. You need a puller to get it off.

Thanks